Is this a well known film set you can rent? Or is it just coincidence?

I am all connected to the prodock with zoom and focus demand via usb-c and loop but I cannot figure out why I am not getting control in the camera app.

from BMD website "The optional zoom and focus demands can be added to give customers broadcast style lens control with Blackmagic Camera! The focus and zoom demands have USB-C connections so they can easily connect to Blackmagic Camera ProDock. Each zoom and focus demand has 2 USB-C ports, so customers can daisy chain them, then connect them to the ProDock with a single USB connection. The design has an incredibly precise feel and gives customers very fine lens control, allowing customers to frame and adjust the lens without taking their hands off the tripod handles. The buttons can be customized so customers can assign different camera functions to them! Plus, hardware is included for mounting the focus and zoom demand onto tripod handles." I cant find that there is any further steps to connect and operate.

Is any blackmagic camera protected against dust? Or is there any solution for using it in a dusty environment, other than puting it inside a plastic bag?

I need a camera for shooting videos in a woodworking workshop where there is a lot of fine dust.

I love the blackmagic cameras video look, and i'd love to buy one, but they seem to have no protection against dust.

Hi I need some help with creating a LUT for my bmpcc 6k pro, every time ive imported a LUT that I’ve made in Davinci Resolve, it always comes out flat and desaturated, only slightly different than the log image.

Can someone walk me through the process of exporting a LUT from DVR and into the cam, I’ve been setting my CSTs to Blackmagic Design Wide Gamut Gen 4/5, Blackmagic Design Film Gen 5 gamma. Output is rec 709 gamma 2.4. So Im really not sure why it’s seems like it’s not reading my LUT properly. All my LUTs are <1.5MB, I can’t find any information on the input and output colour spaces for the camera LUTs in the manual or anywhere online.

I’ve been using the film to extended video LUT but these are overexposed and always make my blacks look super noisy in post so I really need a long-term solution, any help would be greatly appreciated!

My Pyxis is about a year and half old and started experiencing a weird issue while filming yesterday. Every time I would press the record button, the camera would shut off. But this only happened when I had a V-mount battery in. Once I plugged into the wall, it worked fine. Has anyone else experienced this?

For more info, here is what I was using:

• Tether Tools ONsite D-Tap Battery with V-Mount
• KOCACKOO Adjustable V-mount battery to BP-U series battery conversion Plate

edit: added links.

Hi everybody, my manager is looking to invest in a mixer for some studio shows and podcast recordings and we’re looking for the best bang for our buck.

Does anyone here have any experience with the extreme iso G2 since it’s relatively new and can tell me what it’s like to use on a daily basis?
Pros, cons, shortcomings, realistic workflow etc

Convince me to buy a Blackmagic camera. The only thing holding me back is reliability.

I shoot high-end brand commercials and need a solid cinema camera I can rely on when the production doesn't afford to rent an ARRI. I am almost set to either get the Pyxis 12K or the Ursa Mini Pro 12K OLPF (leaning towards the Pyxis more).

The only concern on my mind is Blackmagic's camera reliability. I owned a BMPCC 6K Pro in the past, and after a short while, it started shutting off on me out of nowhere in controlled studio environments, and have since switched to Sony - however, the image quality is not at all comparable with the beautiful images coming out of Blackmagic cameras. I am going to keep my Sony A7iv as a backup camera, but of course I intend to rely on the new Blackmagic camera I buy.

Have you ever faced any issues with your Blackmagic cameras? Was I just unlucky with my previous unit?

Hello there! Sorry if crossposts aren't that welcome. I am a colour grading newbie and need help understanding a harder concept

I shoot on 3 platforms - DJI Mini 4 pro and Osmo Nano (both 10bit D-Log M) and my iPhone 13.
I want to create Kodak 2383 film emulation, inspired by an instagram post I saw earlier which I will attach here.

Using the same node tree for the Osmo Nano and Mini 4 Pro leads to very very different results, despite the same manufacturer and same colour profile, but that is to be expected. I just cannot understand how to balance the way oversaturated and overly contrasty Osmo Nano footage.

The whole node tree I am attempting to use + before/after examples are posted in the original post

Any and all help with making the footage look similar to not loose continuity between shots will be extremely helpful : ). Thanks a bunch in advance!

We’re looking to upgrade our camera systems in my church’s sanctuary next year and I’m bouncing between:

Canon system comprising of a C80, 2 C300 Mk III’s for handhelds, and 4 C50’s (or 3 and a third C300 Mk III) for the track camera, the wide-gimbal-wire cam shot and 2 stage slider cameras.

Blackmagic Design system (we use ATEM switching components) with 4 PYXIS 6K’s for main shots and roamers and 2 Pocket 4K’s for the stage cameras.

We use Middle Things APC-R Mini’s and Middle Control to operate 3 RS4 Pro’s with Canon XF605 camcorders and camera operation over XC Protocol right now.

Does anyone have experience using PYXIS’ as CineBroadcast cameras? Or familiar with the quality of camera control from the Middle Things APC-R Mini’s?

Where can I find new LUTs for the CC6k?

I just got a ursa mini pro g1 that works fully (recording, playback, menu, and ports) but the physical buttons on the camera body don't work. Other then the ones on the front of the flip out screen, on the actual body they do not respond. This means that the menu buttons do not work. I was wondering if there is another way to access the menu of the fcamera to change codecs or recording formats and what not.

All help appreciated, thank you.

Hi all,

I have an issue on the app on my iphone. The exposure resets to MAXIMUM exposure/ISO everytime I exit the app, or even switching tabs into settings or switching lenses. Is there a fix for this? I am just using the apple log to rec 709 conversion lut and it is just giving me issues.

Went to buy the full version directly from them through PayPal. Clicked complete, declined says click to continue took me to their webpage that’s it. Still no email, even though it declined PayPal says that it’s pending which means it’s approved and not declined huh? Check my credit card have two pending charges one for 295.00 without taxes and 314.54 with taxes. I emailed them and still nothing.
I’ve read on Reddit this happens to many people, wonder how many sales they lose because of this. If they don’t answer back not sure what to do besides dispute it, wonder why PayPal still does business with them after all these years of this. It’s been a few years and still hasn’t been fixed.

Edit: looks like the 295.00 dropped off but still nothing from them.

Luckily I have two 12K’s so I could send one at a time for the update. I’ll have to send the second body in shortly. Thanks BMD for making this as painless as possible.

Disclaimer: I created this post with the assistance of AI to better articulate my thoughts.

If your mics go silent feeding a RODEcaster (or any mixer's headphone out) into an ATEM's combo jack, check whether someone used a TRS cable. TS fixed it instantly.**

Spent a full day chasing this one and it fooled everyone in the room, so posting the write-up in case it saves someone else.

**Setup:** RODEcaster Pro II feeding an ATEM Mini Extreme ISO G2 via one of the XLR/TRS combo jacks. Signal sourced from one of the RODEcaster's 1/4" headphone outputs (not ideal, I know — more on that at the end).

**Symptom:** Speech into the mics = absolutely nothing on the ATEM's input meters. But a loud hand clap in the room would *faintly* register. Everything upstream looked healthy — RODEcaster meters showing full signal.

**What didn't fix it:** Every setting in ATEM Software Control (channel on, faders, mic/line, gain, dynamics), factory resets on BOTH units, and a lot of theories about software "hijacking" the audio.

**What did:** Swapping the cable. The dead chain used a TRS (two-ring, stereo) path from the headphone jack. Replacing it with a plain 1/4" TS (one-ring, mono) cable restored audio instantly. Swapped back and forth multiple times, on video — fault appears and disappears with the cable, every time, zero settings touched. A new 50 ft TS cable works perfectly too.

**Why it happens:** The headphone out is unbalanced stereo — left on tip, right on ring. The ATEM's combo input is balanced, so it sums tip MINUS ring. Podcast speech is essentially mono (L ≈ R), so the input computes L − R ≈ silence. Claps sneak through faintly because the two channels aren't perfectly identical. A TS cable grounds the ring, so the input just gets the left channel cleanly.

**The trap:** "TRS = the better cable" instinct. From a *balanced line output*, TRS is correct. From an *unbalanced stereo headphone output* into a balanced input, TRS is exactly wrong.

**Proper fix** (for anyone building this out): skip the headphone jack entirely and run the RODEcaster's rear balanced line outs to the ATEM with TRS — balanced end to end, happy at long lengths, and the level isn't riding on a headphone volume knob.

**The part I actually want to discuss:** the diagnosis wasn't the hardest part of this job. The hardest part was that someone on the job was convinced it was a software problem — first that a background app was "hijacking" the audio, then that a settings change had locked things out — and even after watching the cable swap kill and restore the signal repeatedly, on camera, called it luck. Meters visibly moving got denied in real time. I eventually stopped arguing and let the working install speak for itself, but it burned me out more than the fault did.

So, question for the room: when you've got a reproducible demonstration and someone on the job still won't accept it, what do you actually do? Document and disengage? Keep demonstrating? Something else? Curious how the veterans here handle it.

Hope the technical half saves someone a day and a factory reset or two.

Hi,

I just bought an ATEM Mini Pro, and I can’t seem to figure out how to automate something that seems very simple.

I use it with two inputs: a camera focused on the presenter on input 1/camera 1, and the actual PowerPoint presentation on input 2/camera 2.

When I switch to the PowerPoint in full screen, I want the presenter from input 1 to appear automatically as a picture-in-picture overlay. When I switch back to input 1, I want the PiP to disappear again.

Macros do not seem to be the right solution, and the “PiP stay on with transition” option in the Setup app simply keeps the PiP active at all times.

Is there a feature I’m missing?

I had a friend (who's more knowledgeable with cameras) do the filming. He says the only thing he messed with was exposure.

I used a wireless lav mic, a cheap one where the receiver plugs into the phone. I have used this with my default phone camera (Galaxy s24) and it's been fine.

We did a test without the mic at the beginning of filming and it sounded fine. I also just tested a couple 10sec shots right now both with and without using the lav. Both sounded fine.

The audio for all of the sketch scenes plays in super slo-mo, both on my phone and in Davinci. The video plays fine. Some of the takes are ~1min and for some we kept rolling, so there's also a few 15-20min "takes." Regardless of the length, the audio is bad.

Any ideas what happened or how to fix it, if possible? Or how to prevent it from happening again?

For context of course this is for my church and I was wondering which option seems best.