We have the money to buy a 14k car without the need of a loan. This would be a first for us so unsure of how to best handle it. Is it best to still get a loan and pay the car off that way? Or would a better plan be to pay the car off entirely, and deposit "payments" into a savings account that could then go towards future repairs?

So I was thinking about pulling the trigger around the second or third third-quarter of next year about buying a 2021 F150 with a 5.0 king Ranch it’s currently being sold for $43,303 my plan is to save up $35,000 in cash using that as a down payment so I can have a low monthly payment since I have a good credit, I was hoping to have my loan for 36 months. so what’s y’all’s input?

Been car shopping for quite a while now it’s been hard to find quality cars that have been maintained in my area within my budget. I came across this car a 2007 Toyota Avalon I know it’s super old but it stands out to me because its one owner with diligent maintenance. Dealer is asking 6995 I believe mileage is 130k would of Course get a pre purchase inspection. Even though it’s a Toyota should I just pass because of the age?

I'm talking about questions to ask, things to look at, things to test, or anything else that I would need to know

I bought my truck from a trusted family member who I already knew took care of it and gave me its Carfax. But I'm going to buy a car soon and I'll be going into the open market for it

So long story short I have shit credit. Don’t want to pay 20% on a subprime. I live in greater Boston and don’t necessarily need a car but it would make a lot of things a lot easier. Is it still possible to get a decent used car under $5k? Looking for a Honda/toyota don’t really care what year not picky on that or cosmetic damage as long as it runs and drives. Seen a decent amount of cars on marketplace but how do I know I’m not getting scammed?

Quick breakdown for anyone shopping used cars: a vehicle history report is basically a car's rap sheet, pulled from DMV records, insurance claims, and maintenance records from participating shops

• Frame damage from minor collisions that were never reported
• Flood damage from localized events where insurance wasn’t involved
• Odometer rollback in cases where readings weren’t consistently logged
• Rental or fleet abuse that doesn’t show obvious damage
• Title washing, where a car is moved between states to remove branding
• Poor-quality repairs using cheap parts or improper techniques

How to Protect Yourself Beyond the Vehicle History Report

Think of a VHR as a starting point, but it’s not the only step you need in order to vet a used car.  Here’s how to go further:

1. Get a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI)

Have a trusted, independent mechanic inspect the car before buying. They can spot hidden accident damage, fluid leaks, worn components and signs of flood exposure. Getting an inspection is one of the most effective safeguards and this initial cost (usually between $100 - $300) can save you big later. 

2. Look for Physical Red Flags

Even without mechanical expertise, you can check for warning signs. Here are a few signs that a car might have been hastily or poorly repaired to hide larger damage:

• Uneven panel gaps or mismatched paint
• Musty smells (possible water damage)
• Rust in unusual places (under seats, inside trunk)
• Uneven tire wear (alignment or suspension issues)

3. Test Drive Thoroughly

If possible, drive in different conditions to get a full picture of the car’s condition. Driver on the highway. Try breaking hard and accelerating. Do a few tight turns. Listen and feel for anything that seems off. 

4. Verify Maintenance Records Independently

Ask the seller for receipts or service logs. Call the shops listed (if any) to confirm work was actually done.

5. Check for Recalls Yourself

Use the VIN on the NHTSA website to confirm open recalls. Don’t rely solely on the report.

Hi i am looking forward to sell my KIA with title in hand no engine lights! Totally functional without having any problems! Only issue is there has a dent on back, it happened while making the reverse! No accident history!!

155k Miles!! Clean title!! Well asking price is $5300 while its negotiable!

Location: Arlington, TX! If you are serious only, please ask whatever you need to ask!! Otherwise its better not to waste our time.. :)

Am looking for a used car...I could finance $15-20k, but most of what I'm finding in that range is high miles or older than they should he cars (2015 accords with 90k miles etc)

So part of me wants to find a subaru crosstrek, honda civic, mazda 3, corolla for $8-10 and pay it off real quick (would put $2k down) and that would buy me a couple of years until this wildly overpriced market comes down. I saw that used car sales are down for 6 or 9monthd straight, so surely pricing will start to reflect that, right? Im currently without a car (totaled my 2011 accord). So I don't have the luxury of not doing anything, I need to get a car asap.

The guy is saying lowest he can do is 5500 and that there is a nj tax fee of 375$ and a temp license plate fee of 200$ , this would be my first car

There's links in the comment section of the original post. Any advice would help!

Going to see a car later today from facebook marketplace, when I asked about the title the seller claimed it is under their older brothers name and signed by him. I assume this is a big fat red flag and to just drop it?

Edit: I let them know I was no longer interested. Was probably fine, but not worth the potential headache for what was ultimately a decent priced, but old and dinged up car

I have a lot of experience with classic cars, so of course everyone expects me to have opinions on the new stuff...but I don't LOL.

Friend asked me whether I'd recommend a '15 Cherokee for his daughter. She needs something cheap-ish that will last a few years. I almost told him to find a clean YJ Cherokee if she really wants a Jeep, except the '15 would be much more safe.

So I googled it and see it has pretty mediocre reviews but nothing glaring. I also hear a lot of secondhand complaints about Jeep/Stellantis quality in general lately.

Yay or nay?

Can you buy a car from a FB seller let’s say and they can hold sales tax but not offer a temp plate? I don’t know a ton about buying cars maybe a silly question.

Thoughts on them? I've got shit credit (620) and payment history (14 missed payments) from buying too expensive a car then not paying it until they inevitably repossessed it (was young and dumb).

I know they're typically shit, the one I'm looking at has good reviews (4.8) and say they report positive payments to credit bureaus. Financing wise they're a $500-1250 down payment with about 19% APR (bad, i know, but two credit unions deny me based upon my payment history and I don't wanna take yet another hard inquiry to try another) tried looking at carvana but their down payment and APR are even higher. Currently paying about the same amount in ubers in a month even once a week to work than I would be paying for this car I'm looking at.

I strongly doubt I'd go missing any payments on this, I make good money just made bad financial decisions, my thought process is while the APR would suck I'd be fixxing my credit, and assuming there's no penalty for early payments, try to get out of the APR via a refinance through a credit union when my payment history and credit improve via the car.

Car is a bit older for the price but I just need an a to b once or twice a week.

Appreciate any advice.

When buying a car is a good rule of thumb still 10-15k miles on it per year old the car is? What kind of things should I be looking out for when test driving it, besides the painfully obvious things anyways.

I'm brand new to buying a car, let alone a used car, and I need advice. I came across this 2016 Mazda CX-5 Sport and it is within my budget. However, I have no idea if this can be considered a good deal. I'm considering getting a pre-evaluation, but I'm also nervous about it being just a waste of money if the car condition is not good enough to last 5-6 years.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Been seriously considering getting a Bentley for a while now. Not sure if going new is worth the extra money or if a low-mileage used one makes more sense.

Found a 2022 Continental GT with around 18,000 miles that looks clean, full service history, and the interior is still in really good shape. Price is a lot more realistic than brand new.

Is the jump in reliability and features from a 2022 to a current model big enough to justify the higher price, or are the used ones holding up well enough that it’s not necessary? Also curious how much the maintenance costs actually jump once you’re out of the factory warranty.

This is the marketplace description

"414,000 km on body

Oil change 4000km ago (Every 8000km) Spark plugs done at 400,000km Coolant flush done

Brake disks and pads done 4000km ago Engine was swapped ~212,000 km ago by previous owner.

3.0L V6 engine (strong and smooth) Manual transmission (fun + fuel efficient) Fully loaded EX-L trim (leather seats, sunroof, heated seats, etc.)

Runs and drives well. Straight piped...

*Spoiler came off but its in the truck if you want to re attach it.

Engine and transmission are solid. Comes with winter studded tires and all seasons. Interior is in decent shape for the age.

Has the usual wear and tear you'd expect for a 2004, but nothing major. Well maintained and ready to go.

Perfect for a commuter, first car, or someone looking for a cheap reliable manual with some power.

Asking $3500 OBO"

Thing is

Cracked bumper

Dead batt

Cracked windshield

Dead Seatbelt sensor on passenger

He said hell gove it to me for 3k is that good?

looking at a 2013 Toyota Prius with about 101,000 miles, a clean title, and a replaced hybrid battery. The car is in great condition and drives well.
The seller told me she’d be willing to take less, but she still owes $8,800 on a credit union loan, so she says she can’t go below that.
From a purely financial perspective, is paying $8,800 cash still the smart decision if I plan to keep the car for many years? Or is there any legitimate way to structure the deal so I could buy it for less than $8,800 despite the outstanding loan?

Presuming that the seller is being honest about it being in good condition (I will be having a mobile mechanic come to take a look at it.)

I know RAV4s are good cars and they are sturdy, but I am just a little bit worried given its age and it has almost 250k miles on it.

Is at least worth it to check out?