Excited to say after a few decades of looking and a 15 year detour into Toyotas, a GT6 finally followed me home over 4th of July weekend. Although it came very close to not fitting on the Uhaul!

Cosmetically, it’s a 20/20 car (looks good at 20ft, rolling by at 20mph). Originally maroon, it was repainted at some point in the 90’s. It has a little rust starting to show again, and definitely some thicker filler in the lower doors and rockers, but very salvageable, all told. Floor pans, trunk, and even rear quarters are original, with the exception of a patch in the driver’s side floor.

Mechanically, I have quite a bit of work to do, starting with the timing and tune. It is difficult to cold start, backfires prodigiously until warm, idles at about 1400rpm, bogs badly accelerating from a stop, and diesels at shut down.

The engine seems solid, very little crank play I can feel, no smoke, may need the valves tightened. The transmission will need to be overhauled soon, plus the usual electrical gremlins.

Interior is present, liveable, but fairly rough…

Looking forward to getting it more roadworthy, though I’ve been having a blast driving it as is… despite the gremlins.

I'm hoping you Triumph experts can answer a question that dates back to the 60's.

My parents both loved British cars. When I was young, my dad had an Alpine and mom a Sprite.

Mom traded the Sprite for a Triumph. Here's where I need some help with the nomenclature.

It was essentially a Herald convertible with an inline 6. My memory is of it being badged a "Sport 6".

I've heard it referred to somewhere as a "Light Six".

Can anyone shed light (no pun intended) on this for me?

Thanks in advance!

So im at the point where im working towards putting the reartub/firewall section back onto the chassis.

Currently they're both in 2k epoxy primer. I was thinking a liberal application of some flavour of stone guard on the underside then a matt black top coat would be the right course of action before i started bolting everything together? From there i can mount all the panels, align everything and block and paint the outside.

thoughts? anything im missing?

And no, i wont be painting the car as is in the photo, car has since been moved to somewhere less agricultural :D

Frame from 1969, body from 1970. In practice early production MK V

Basically perfect summer car, driven in Kainuu Finland!

Wondering if anyone else has come across this problem. I’m swapping my generator for an alternator I got from Spitbits. I’ve got the lower hardware sorted to get the belt to align with the other pulleys. Now though the top adjustment bracket sits right in the middle of the housing.

My obvious solution is to get a longer thermostat bolt and add washers to pop it out some, but wanted to know if anyone has run into this, and if that is what they did.

I found this car around a year ago in a abandoned building in Rochester NY along with many others, this place was presumably a chop shop. All I can find on this car (and correct me if I’m wrong) but it’s a triumph gt6 I am specifically looking for the race it was used in and who may have driven it. if it was at all apart of races. If any great minds can help out it would be much appreciated.

Back with my $400 spitfire! We pulled the engine and got a piston out but can't get the cam out or 2,3, and 4. I'm looking to sleeve the engine since there's no direct replacements anywhere near me or are in a similar condition and, I might have the shop remove the other stuck pistons. (I broke #2 because it was cracked anyway and I didn't realize I broke through)

So far aside from the electric, engine, rust repair everything is going well and I still haven't spent a dime!

(Note this is a learning project so engine swaps are considered as long as they directly bolt to the stock transmission. Non stock engines will be replaced apon finding a stock replacement/ repaired original)

Wanted to share a photo with the hood closed haha

Trying to help out my father with his tr4a, he was having some ignition issues so he ordered a new voltage regulator and had me bolt it in and connect it. After installation the car has zero power when the key is turned on now, I’ve verified all the connections are correct and I have polarized the regulator correctly (I think), and I’m just looking at what I should be looking at next?

“Dad! Dad!I’ve got to get to Poole Station. Can you take me?” says youngest.
“What time do you need to be there?”
“Half two”
“We’d need to leave 3 minutes ago. And mum’s got the car.”
“Galahad!” says youngest and off we go!

And so, 35 minutes later, a train is caught (just). Keeping up with modern traffic indeed!

She might not be the most desirable triumph but you can’t beat a spin down the backroads in a soft top

My Spitfire4 and my partner’s TR4a, out together in the sunshine.

Trying something new. Always liked the look of stone guards for headlights. Bought a pair from Moss and threw them on.

Why wasn’t the Triumph 2000 more popular in the USA? With thousands of TRs and Spitfires sold to US drivers, the brand was popular enough.

This is the progress after 2 weeks on the flooded spitfire 1500 (78)! Flooded in hurricane Ian and yet I'll still revive it!

Currently I have done a full brake cleaning, (old hardware was still good!) and now we're working on getting the engine to a machine shop!

Honestly the worst bit of this car is the sand, its corse, rough, irritating and it gets EVERYWHERE! (Thats what's in #2)

Popped in for fuel and found myself adjacent to a car of a different era.

Time to take the roof off our gallant steed. The nice thing about a Surrey top is the centre panel is surprisingly small. Easy enough to carry by yourself. Mine lives in the downstairs bathroom until the bad weather returns. :)

I replaced my clutch master cylinder a few years ago with an OEM replacement from Moss Motors. If I remember correctly it was about $60. Fast forward a couple of years and I now have hydraulic fluid leaking off of my clutch pedal onto my rubber floor mats, thankfully not the carpet and/or floor pans.

Has anyone upgraded the clutch master cylinder to the TRW brand that Spitbits sales, or does anyone have a better option? Not afraid to spend the extra money if the component has better longevity.