Really curious to try them for making my own arrows. Coming from carbon, I really like the ability to use screw-in tips on wood. My wild-harvested shafts are primarily hardwoods, but I think the tooling set should be able to handle it just fine. I’m mainly attracted by the fact I wouldn’t have to taper and glue on the heads.

Sorry for a repost, but I just wanted to see if I could get some more advice about this before making a purchase. Tried to get help directly from alibow but they’re never the best with response time even after a month 😅

In Jim Hamm's book "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans", there are two notes I'm having trouble understanding:

• Both short and long feathers have pros and cons. Short feathers (i.e. feathers that are short enough to not touch the bow when nocked) shoot quieter and don’t get distorted after lying on the bow for long periods of time, while longer feathers stabilize the arrow.

• Short feathers are less susceptible to damage and distortion. Having feathers that are 1/2" tall is good.

When he's saying "short feathers" and "long feathers", is he referring to the length of the feather running down the shaft or the height of the feathers' hairs (i.e. how far they stick out from the shaft)?

When he says "feathers that are 1/2" tall", he's obviously referring to how far the hair sticks out from the shaft. But when's talking about "short enough not to touch the bow when nocked", is he talking about the length are the height?

Getting back into trad shooting, picked up a bear grizzly at 35lbs.
Just looking for some arrow recommendations, just target shooting atm, I have some cheap ones that came with my old take down kit at 700 spine (not much other info on the arrows) but thinking I could get something more suited to the new griz.
Cheers!

What are the pros and cons of both in terms of ease of making and durability long-term?

From reading and taking notes from the "Traditional Bowyer's Bible" series, split-timber seems more practical in terms of mass manufacturing straight shafts.

Do split-timber shafts need to be checked periodically for straightness like "natural" shafts, or is there no need because they are made from timber and boards?

Found in my grandfathers garage. Not wanting to shoot it more looking for info because it is gorgeous!! I believe the serial number is 7m816 but would love to know more about it other than what google has told me without verifying any of it.

Just recently moved to this area and wanted to get into archery as a hobby. Not looking to actively hunt, but just want to shoot for fun. I saw a couple ranges around the area, but are there any clubs/events/groups I could be apart of and learn?

Just recently moved to this area and wanted to get into archery as a hobby. Not looking to actively hunt, but just want to shoot for fun. I saw a couple ranges around the area, but are there any clubs/events/groups I could be apart of and learn?

I've got these arrows tuned and shooting quite good out of my old Bear Grizzly.

However, the 3 Rivers Dynamic spine calculator is WAY off. That thing has been pretty dang accurate for me in the past. See second picture.

Any ideas?

I am planning a black bear hunt in New Mexico for next year during archery season- so around September. I am a Texas resident.

I have been scouting unit 6a, but wanted to see if there was any advice about what to expect, different tactics that have been successful or considerations that maybe I haven’t considered.

Thanks!

Hello,

I own a 28"/50# Keshig, expecting a draw length of 29/30 inch. Which arrows would you recommend, which kind of nocks?

I bought a bunch of bows from this guy…

Here is a 66 in bow with a 62 in string on it…..
I’m confused as to why this is happening, the string completely flattens out to the bow

I’m really trying to invest time into achieving the perfect tune for my arrows but I’m noticing that in order to acquire the variety of components (inserts, shafts, points) of varying weights and spines, I have to buy everything somewhat piecemeal.

What do y’all suggest I do in order to be able to acquire everything I need to dial in my tune? Are there any bundles or kits available?

This is my first bow I bought for thumb draw style archery.

I designed the handle by doing some line drawings on a CAD program and got someone to laser engrave it, then I painted it with pearlescent gold paint and sealed it so it doesn’t crack.

Main grip is horse leather I bought and I used the baseball stitch method. I also stuck on some homemade fish leather for the arrow pass.

So good to see it come to life.

Any suggestions on a name for this bow?

A little back story. I grew up in the 90’s in Georgia, US on 200 acres and had free rein of it all. A .22 or .410 was always in my hand with 2 rules. [Don’t hurt yourself and you eat what you kill]. In my early teens I fell in love with my dad’s old recurve bow and hunted many squirrel and rabbit. Never took it to the woods for deer because I always felt I couldn’t get enough power.

Fast forward to now and I really want that traditional hunt back in my life. Skimming marketplace and I find this jewel for $100. Immediately met the guy after offering $60 and made the deal.

Since then, I took it to my local bow shop to have a string made and they refused because the limbs are too twisted.. Endless YouTube searches reveal that I can just twist it back to shape? How hard will this process be? Any tips to save this bow and get my first traditional deer hunt by the coming season?

Mike Treadway Black Forest Dragonfly

68in

48# at 28in

Finally getting back into shooting after 15 years.

It’s a Bear Kodiak Hunter with the serial “7T6988” and then below it says “58” and “48#”

Thanks for any insight.

I got this bow from 3 rivers in March and shot it through to now. Just noticed this streaking and maybe a small splinter in fiberglass on the streak. Is this unsafe to shoot?

This is a Oberon take down 60 lb limbs

I'm starting to scout for bears for the September bear bow season in the Manzano Mountains. I shoot my 1972 recurve every day so I stay sharp.

I was shooting my 60lb sas pioneer (I know, I got it to work up in weight) yesterday and got a nice popping sound accompanied by the wood in the grip shifting under my hand. I was not going to buy a new bow but here I am.

I am looking for a hill style longbow, I draw 31" and live in Canada, my options for a Hill style bow in 60lbs under $1k cad seem to be a Bear Montana or deerseeker outlander. Does anyone have experience with both?

I dont want another pioneer because I found the handle section rediculously long and well, I dont trust them now.

None of the local shops stock traditional bows except the odd samick sage so unfortunatly I will not be able to try before I buy.

I am leaning towards the Montana because I can find a lot of positive information on it, and it will get here in 7 days, the deerseeker is going to take 30 at minimum, has less reviews, but is also significantly cheaper. I dont want to go that long without shooting at this weight as my next weight down is a 50lb black hunter longbow. But I can buy 2 outlanders for 1 montana here.

This will be used for hunting this fall

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks