So here's steam support answer, I totally understand their answer but still a hundred bucks gone and don't know if I should take the risk of ordering my reserved machine when I'll be able to do so if the same thing happens with this shitty delivery company.

OG story :

https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamController/s/Wdt6GxIONT

I like many gamers out there have clutter around the desk and unfortunately am forgetful or tired at the end of the day while gaming. Last night I went to bed with the puck connected to my controller and by accident knocked the puck off of the controller while getting up. I did not notice and the puck fell off my desk and connected to my STEEL computer case. Thankfully when I awoke only 4 hours later and went to get back on the computer. Upon noticing the puck on the side of my computer it was EXTREMELY HOT. Upon further inspection it had not only melted the solder holding the USB C Plug to it's own cable it had started to melt the case of the puck itself. If I hadn't awoken when I did there's no doubt in my mind this would damaged my PC and possibly have started a fire. This is a serious design flaw as many controllers with similar charging methods have handshake verification before charging and will not power if not connected to the correct device. For a thing that is suppose to be in any room of the house and will be marketed with the Steam Machine as a TV connected device this is extremely dangerous. As one other user pointed out (https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamController/comments/1tjhiyv/psa_watch_out_for_the_exposed_contacts_of_the/) this happens when connecting to any metal object and the magnets are very powerful. This is a warning only as I love the controller itself but you should be warned before you $100 becomes a much larger expensive problem.

https://imgur.com/a/pa9FVYd Images of the Damage by heat

Edit: About 10 hours later Steam has since reached out to me and the Hardware Team will be reaching out to me and will find out exactly how this happened and how dangerous it is. They will also get me a new puck ASAP. To everyone who suggested that I contact them again thank you very much. To everyone who questioned my ability to understand and use the product. While I hadn't considered the grounding issue upon further inspection with a multi meter on my case I can't find that I have any grounding issues.

I've had my PC for several years and rebuilt it at least twice. I have NEVER had this kind of issue before. Although the idea is valid. It doesn't change the validity of the fact of what happened. The steam puck had power and did somehow over heat and melt to the point of tearing apart a wire. My point of this post isn't to say Steam fucked up with the design or to convince people that you shouldn't get it. It is simply to inform people that this CAN happen. If this post helps 1 person avoid a fire that is the point. If this leads to a recall of the device then it needed to happen. If this leads to a firmware update that fixes the issue then that needed to happen. I will update this post again after speaking to the hardware team tomorrow.

Edit 2 6/9: After talking to Steam Hardware support they did confirm that there is firm ware that SHOULD prevent this from happening. Several Updates have been made to the firmware and it isn't possible for me to know which version I'm currently on. They also have sent me a new Puck and I in return have sent them both the damaged puck and wire to them so for me I am now satisfied that there's nothing I can do at this point.

I am happy with the service that I have now received even if I did have to email them twice.

I have tested my PC case several different ways and the grounding seems to be fine.

For the people that suggested I 3D Print a stand. I have done that. It looks great. It fits great.

I would like to reiterate that this is a fair warning to everyone with a Steam Controller to not allow your Steam Controller Puck to attach to metal while the puck is plugged in. Even if it shouldn't be able to happen. It could happen and you'd better be safe then sorry.

Edit 3 6/23: The final prognosis is that a cable that I was using caused the fault. While I don't think it was a cheap cable this is a fair warning to use only the cable that Steam sends with the Steam Puck. Steam sent me a new puck and my controller is working great and have not seen the problem crop up again.

It seems to only be battlefield 6. I’m clearly not touching any buttons, and it will randomly fire. Even if I put the controller down entirely. There’s no other controllers connected and it only happens when the steam controller is connected. Help please this is actually affecting my gameplay

I got my SC a little while ago, but always found it odd that the battery never really 'went up' while I was fiddling around in Steam in between games. It paired just fine.

I just sat down and decided to take a closer look.

Here I am wondering why it never charged and I think it's pretty obvious. Hopefully Valve sends a replacement puck?

Hopefully I'm the only one with this manufacturing defect.

As you can see in the video, roughly every 2.5 seconds the controller freezes for less than half a second. This includes the buttons, sticks, trackpads, and rumble. The sticks keep inputting the last direction and the trackpad mouse jumps to the new location after it unfreezes. It was working normally just earlier today.

I tried it on my laptop and it worked normally there, and it seems to work normally in lizard mode, so this seems to be caused by the Steam installation on my PC. I tried reinstalling and it didn't help.

I found this old post but it's for the 2015 one and I'm not on windows and don't have the realtek audio issue so it doesn't seem relevant.

Left trackpad seems to have an issue detecting the bottom left area, right trackpad does not seem to have this issue. Controller and puck are fully updated too.

UPDATE: Valve has released a new beta update to steam which was meant to fix this issue. I have updated to the steam beta, installed the new controller and puck firmware and the issue is MOSTLY solved. The dead zone is not gone completely but it is significantly smaller and much less noticeable. This does give me hope that this is just a software issue.

UPDATE 2: Steam support has now offered me rma. So seems like a hardware issue.

UPDATE 3: I have now received a new controller that is free from the issue even without needing to update to steam beta. So if you have the is issue I would suggest doing this. The process from package sent back to receiving my new controller took me about 7 days. However I live in Sydney which I believe is quite close to where the controllers get dispatched from in Australia so keep that in mind.

This is a shit post

Edit: KEEP TRYING GUYS, seeing a lot of people in live get one after trying a lot of times

Just got mine the other day, have used it in three different games (Destiny 2, Cyberpunk, and 007: First Light), and only in 007 does it give me issues. I looked to see if maybe gyroscopic controls were on, or if maybe the trackpads were doing something, but I couldn't figure out what it was. This is both in Big Picture mode, and non-Big Picture mode as well. Any suggestions?

Edit: The problem has been solved. The dead zone in game was not set high enough by default

Hello im a professional submarine maker. Today i made my very first submarine out of carbon fiber and me and a couple of my friends are planning to travel around 12000 feet underwater.

Only problem is my xbox 360 controller broke so now im looking at good controllers for my submarine.

Will i need steam input for my sub and would the gyro controls work? Also interested in how long the battery life is for the controller as i dont want to bring spares on my travel

Thanks for your support!!!

Issue resolved: Valve has once again released an update to the steam beta branch, this update also pushed out a new firmware update for the controller, the firmware update completely fixed the double input issue while using the puck. The only quirk I noticed is that after I attach the puck my controller loses functionality until I hit the guide button at which point it starts to work like normal even while attached to the puck, happy to report the double input issue appears to FIXED, if you are still having it make sure you have updated to this new firmware, and yes, I did inform valve of the guide button thing.

ORIGINAL POST:

Hey everyone, question for anyone who may have had the same issue. When my steam controller puck is plugged into my windows 11 PC and connected physically via the magnets to the controller, I am getting double inputs for everything, this includes all buttons and even the track pad while typing.

As soon as I unplug the controller from the charging puck and begin using it as just a wireless dongle the issue is immediately fixed, and I no longer get double input issues.

Does anyone know what might be causing this. I have updated the firmware for both the puck and the controller. This issue specifically only occurs when the controller is plugged in to charge via the puck. But still it would be nice to be able to use the controller while it's charging.. any help would be appreciated.

Issue edit: with a lot of testing Ive going that the issue stems from connecting the puck to a controller that is already on. If the puck is already attached and you turn the controller on there are no issues.

Edit: So, with further testing I've also discovered that when the puck is unplugged from my PC yet still connected to my controller, and then plugged back into the PC charging resumes and the issue is fixed. However as soon as the puck is unplugged from the back of the controller and then replugged back into the controller the issue starts again. So I think the issue does actually stem from the puck plugging and unplugging from the controller itself.

Edit 2: I want to point out that I personally do not consider this to be a huge issue, just a small one and I was curious if there was already an existing fix. Regardless I wanted to bring attention to it so valve can get it patched up if it is a firmware issue. I have already sent them a ticket for it, but otherwise im loving the controller so far.

Edit 3: I finally got around to testing the controller via puck on my Steam Deck, it seems to have same issue there regarding the puck and double inputs while magnetically connected if you attach the puck to the controller after removing it. Was wondering if this was a Windows issue but it seems the issue can happen on a steamOS device as well.

Edit 4: Decided to do one final test since it had been brought up in the post if I was connected via Bluetooth or not while trying to charge with the puck. I went ahead and connected to Bluetooth and the puck at the same time wirelessly. This creates no issues. The controller will not simultaneously connect to both it will only choose the most recently used wireless pairing method, and ignore the other. Steam will however recognize that the puck is also plugged in. If however you attach the puck to the back of the controller magnetically it doesn't switch from being connected via Bluetooth, it does however cause the double input issue to occur. I'm pretty confident this issue is fully to do with a bug that happens at the moment the puck is attached to the back of the controller magnetically (as I said earlier, if you start with the puck already attached the controller there is no issue until you take it off and reconnect it.). It has nothing to do with what your pairing method is, if you have this issue you will not be able to charge with the puck while playing games.

Final Edit: valve has responded to my ticket, they said they currently are investigating this issue and have no updates to give at the moment. There are currently two work around ive found, one of them seems a bit useless so I'll explain the best one, when you want to attach the puck turn your controller off by pressing steam + y on the controller. Magnetically attach the puck, then turn your controller back on. The controller will charge while you play and you won't have double inputs. Just remember that if at any point you remove the puck you'll have to turn your controller off before reattaching it.

Guys. I got my reservation email on Friday and it won’t let me through the continue payment screen! My window ends on Monday and they won’t take my money. It just keeps looping every time I hit continue. Has anyone else ran into this? I’m waiting on supports reply but man I’m kinda scared.

UPDATE: I was able to get my order in but not after the estimated delivery on the cart page was updated to 6-10 business days. Going to have to wait a bit longer than the 3-5 days but hey I’m happy I got my order in.

Does anyone know if there’s a way to make the steam controller work with Minecraft? I’m just trying to figure out if it’s possible to make my controller work properly when I launch Minecraft on PC. Does anyone have experience with this and know if it’s possible to work on there?

Just received my new steam controller today, charged it up and ready to play and I noticed something during my late run of dead cells. The X and B buttons, the main attack/dodge buttons become stuck after a few presses. This shouldn't be happening after I just got the thing today. The X button seems especially affected compared to the B button.

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Should I contact steam about this or is there a quick fix?

So I got mine a couple of days ago, and have been trying to scour the forums and discord for any solution to this. I think it's absolutely unacceptable to not have any way to recalibrate stick modules like any other controller would. And before you tell me to adjust deadzones and that the controller doesn't save calibration information on bla bla bla, no. No other controller has this issue, you can always recalibrate the sticks, even the Steam Deck has the option to do it through konsole commands. I would at the very least expect to find a way to calibrate a 99€ purchase on the steam settings menu but it seems they have removed that option ever since they switched to the new UI and there's nothing I can seemingly do about it.

Is there truly no way to recalibrate these?

For example, for those of us that reserved on May 8 in North America, should we expect to wait a few weeks to buy, or are we gonna be waiting for months?

They are very annoying and block the bottom right of the screen.

Pics

Was very excited to receive my Steam Controller today. When I opened the box I thought it was weird that the controller was coated in dust, but was even more dismayed to see that the right trackpad has multiple permanent scratches.

Submitted a case, Valve told me to f off. Amazing customer service.

Edit: Definitely regret posting this, lol. Apparently expecting a new product not to have permanent scratches out of the box is whining.

I've had a Steam Deck since launch and I never remember the track pads behaving like this. I just got the controller a few days ago and it's fully updated.

Sometimes it's loud as hell like in the video, sometimes it's so quiet to the point where it's like the haptics aren't even on at all. I've contacted Steam support asking if this was a known software bug or if it could possibly be a hardware defect, and after a bit of back-and-forth I feel like they kind of blew me off. They told me to try and turn it down using the calibration sliders, but the sliders do absolutely nothing. I was then told to open a bug report and the ticket was closed.

So I suppose I'll open a bug report, but I don't know if that would be of any use if the hardware is at fault. Is this normal or is my controller busted?

Struggling with the controller in this game atm. When I’m not pressing a button on the controller the game reverts to k&m which brings the mouse cursor back in changing my focus to the center of the screen.

Game launched from big picture on windows 11. Using official bindings with no k&m controls mapped to anything. Regular xbox controller works fine.

Any way to fix?

By default desktop mode has a gamepad action set activated by long pressing the start button. This doesn't seem to work at all. doesn't show up in joy.cpl, or any other apps that capture xinput. How do I get this to work?

got my steam controller out after a couple years and the battery has cemented itself in. I'm gonna have to get a t6 screwdriver to disassemble the while thing to get it out 😭

hi everyone, posting here to try and see if anyone has any advice and short of that, if anyone else is experiencing this.

I received my steam controller a few weeks ago and for some time it worked great right out of the box. however once I plugged the puck into a different computer to use there, the controller stopped working entirely across all systems. the problem is very specific and i cant find info relating to it anywhere.

essentially, the controller will only connect via puck, no bluetooth or wired connection, and the connection it does achieve over the puck doesnt provide any input whatsoever. the LED will stay solid white indicating a solid connection but steam, the desktop, and any games dont recieve any input and steam itself doesnt recognize any puck or controllers connected. the controllers haptic feedback will rumble lightly when a finger runs over the touchpad as if its working but nothing on the controller provides any actual input.

I have tested this across 3 computers running windows 10, 1 running arch linux, a variety of USB ports on each, a variety of cables, on beta branch steam and vanilla, its always the same. the controller is seemingly bricked, steam support hasnt been able to help me either.

If anyone else has experienced this or knows any other methods to troubleshoot please let me know.

Here is a video of the problem in action: https://youtube.com/shorts/Pap6LvNMlB4?si=01z9Dghkn1gd8y7F

So I'm thinking of getting an SC soon but I heard that to use it in this year you need to do some technical shenanigans in a windows desktop which sounds annoying but it's an SC so I'm gonna be doing some technical stuff anyway.

The thing is though, I have a really old PC that runs Linux Mint, a slightly newer laptop that also runs Linux Mint and a steam deck. I *assumed* that being an official piece of Valve hardware meant that I could connect an SC to it no problem but now I have doubts.

Technically I could borrow a friend's Windows laptop but I really hope that isn't necessary.

I'm talking about about an unboxed SC that needs firmware updates, buying used might be already updated or maybe not depending how old but for the sake of getting more info, assume the SC has been never touched.

I was thinking to connect it wired, then connect with bluetooth and also try the dongle all at once so later if I need/want to switch the something else while gaming I don't need to stop and do some technical shenanigans (any potential firmware problems to already be sorted out beforehand).

I think that's it, I just want as much information as possible, ideally I'd be connecting it to my deck as that's where I always game nowadays (PC too slow) and also because I'm planning to get a dock and that'd be a nice combo with the SC on the couch.

Thanks for reading :3