I’m a beginner. Is that enough to start with?

Hi,

ambitional hobbyist here. Shooting mostly my family (events), some wildlife, landscape & architecture, and some pseudo professional gigs. I am the preferred photographer in my town of 8.000 people, so i get to photograph some festivities etc.. but i mostly do it for fun.

I’m hybrid as well, so i do video on the side too, but mostly for family travels, etc..

My photography journey went from having some basic Lumix cameras in the past, via having the Leica Q1, Q2, Q3, then switching to Leica SL, then to Leica M, then going all the way to where i am now: Lumix S1Rii and Hasselblad X2d (1st gen).

No question, when shooting anything with fast movements or where reliable AF is needed, I’m on the Lumix. When I’m traveling, it is mostly the Hasselblad and my iPhone for video.

Now, the “one camera for all” thought is always with me. Thing is, i am sharing L mount lenses with my dad, who is a Leica SL3 shooter, and also has the Q3 and Q3 43. We happily trade cameras and gear around. He enjoys the X2D as well.

I’m contemplating getting the A7Rvi. What do i think i get out of it?

67 MP on a reasonably fast sensor, with best in class autofocus, and hybrid capability. Potentially the ability to let go of my two cameras and reduce to one. My everyday dilemma is that I WANT to use the X2D, but all I really NEED is the S1Rii, and sometimes it simply makes no sense to bring the X2D in the first place.

However, i do have 100 mp MF on the X2D, and i have great hybrid capability in the S1Rii, plus: the investment is huge. I’d get the A7Rvi + the 24-70 GM2, and probably a 100-X lens as well. People talk about Leica and Hasselblad to be expensive, but this is a 5.000 Euro Camera plus 2.000 Euro per lens.

I put my hands on it a few days ago and have two immediate reactions. Build quality is meh, the EVF is great, and i like the screen. Can’t really say anything about IQ because it was only in a store.

Talk me out of what is presumably just a wave of GAS?

I’m a Nikon z8 shooter and I’m coming over to Sony due to better video technology. I shoot soccer and lacrosse games from the sideline. I do use tripod. I’m switching to Sony alpha 7R V with latest 70-200 G master lens, but then I saw that Sony 50-150 F2 crazy lens that does not have in lens stabilization unlike the 70-200 which is staple for sideline video. Question: do I really need in lens stabilization if I’m recording video with a tripod? Because that 50-150 F2 sounds amazing !

My Girlfriend has two A7 iv’s and after years of usage these parts are slowly losing their grip. She now had one of them replaced in a shop, but this part alone cost 45 EUR to replace, which in my opinion should cover the whole camera and not one 45x10mm strip. Are there any third party alternatives that you guys tried?

I've been using my Sony A7IV with the 28-70 f3.5/5.6 for the last year, and I want something new. I've noticed it's not particularly sharp, has a max zoom of 70mm makes it difficult if there's an animal I am trying to focus on, and its minimum focus distance (1ft-1.5ft) makes macro shots difficult.

My shooting style is very all over the place, hence why I want something "do it all", I like to sit in the yard and attempt to take photos (sometimes videos) of birds and squirrels at the bird feeders (why I want zoom), I do a lot of street photography and random photos of objects (why I want around 28-35mm wide), I like paying attention to small details like individual leaves on plants or bugs on flowers (why I want macro).

I'm more focused on aperture and sharpness rather than zoom, but I was thinking anything close to the 150-200mm area would be nice. I'm willing to spend around $1500, usually I would be more keen on about half that, but if I can get a decent zoom lens that can satisfy most of my needs, I would be super happy.

Some lenses I've thought of so far are the Tamron 28-200 and the Tamron 35-150, but I'm not sure what the image sharpness or macro capabilities of either are.

I done a job for an outdoor music event recently and took maybe one of my most favorite photos on a second hand beaten up £200 samyang 14mm lens

Hi All! I come from the Canon Rebel T5 and have been loving the a6400 with a 16-50mm kit lens. What an upgrade! I did end up using the 50mm on my T5 for street (nearly 75mm FF equivalent) which I did enjoy since it allowed me to shoot from a distance. The kit lens now does allow me to play with all aspects and I can also shoot cityscapes which is nice too.

I have seen the standard recommendations for the Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 or the Tamron 17-70mm but the latter is out of my budget. Any other recommendations? I hear the 18-135mm is quite nice. I am open to primes as well. I did see a 55mm Zeiss lens in my budget on marketplace which intrigued me.

Much appreciated!

I'm really loving this camera! I'm still new to photography, but I can see these both being incredibly useful for a good long time.

I have a Sony a6700 + a Sigma 18-50 + Viltrox 26 2.8, and was looking for a lens that does better in low light (but is still compact enough for travel) to add to my kit, since I already have a zoom and a more everyday carry lens!

I’ve heard good things about the Sigma 23 1.4 > the Sigma 30 1.4, but both seem pretty big (around the size of my 18-50) and might be inconvenient to carry around for travel alongside my other lenses. I was also looking at the Viltrox 25 1.7 which is a lot cheaper and smaller, but isn’t as fast. Would that 1.7 vs 1.4 make a huge difference for low light (enough to justify the price/size difference), and how does the quality of these 3 compare to each other ?

If anyone has any other recommendations that would be amazing!

Hi - I had a catastrophic tripod failure (jammed quick release spontaneously disengaged) and my 14mm GM lens landed head down in gravel.

KEH repair in Atlanta has quoted $707 for first front element and $245 for labor and $29 for shipping to bring this to $981.95 total to repair.

I am seeing this lens listed for around $1300 at other places. Stopped down these scratches do not show up in pictures but wide open they can cause some reflection issues from point source lights.

I am trying to figure out to pay for the repair, or buy new and sell this 'as is' with full disclosure and sample/sky images on ebay to offset the cost of new, potentially making it less than the repair cost.

Any feedback at all would be greatly appreciated!

Shot on Sony A7Rv and Sony 70-200mm f4 mkii

I've been rocking my Sony A7C for close to two years now. As envious as I am of how incredible 10-bit cameras look, I'm still amazed at what I can capture off my 8-bit little beast.

It's taken a lot of practice and learning. But sLog2 can seriously look so good if the shooter knows what they're doing.

If you're someone who can't afford any of the sLog3 lineup, and you're looking for something that looks good for social, consider getting a full frame sLog2 camera. From there, absorb everything you can about balancing and exposing shots, both before hitting record and after loading into DaVinci. You can get better results than you know.

I've had to look after some family pets for a bit and thought I'd take the chance to try and practice a bit of portrait framing on the cats. I'm still relatively new at this, got my camera in February.

The last picture got a bit dark and blurry but the lighting conditions were kinda bad so.

I'm having fun getting to use the camera and trying things out :-)

Hey Folks,

I own the A7IV for over 2 years Now. This year i started to do Film and Photo for Bands at Festivals, mainly for Social Media.
So I want to buy a second Camera so I don’t Need to Switch lenses this much and to be more flexible.

I cant decide between the 7V and 7RV.

I do Videos too, but I think I will be Fine with the Video from the A7IV but the cropless 4K from the A7V Would be nice to have, same with pre Cap and the new autofocus.
But otherwise I can crop more on the 7RV and so on.

As I Said, I do Concerts and in my freetime I do Landscape, Bandphotos and Nighttime (Stars and so on)

Maybe you can help me decide or give me some new points to think about.

Hey lads,

I’ve been away from gear purchase decisions for a while now but an upcoming trip to a landscape rich country has me scratching my head.
I’ve generally only brought my A7iv, 24-105 and 35GM, and haven’t bought a telephoto since I sold my APSC kit years ago.

Some slightly interesting wildlife and far away mountains created an itch again.

Not something I plan on using otherwise so I’d limit my budget to somewhere around 1300CAD, ideally used
Contenders would be the Tamron 70-180G2, sigma 100-400 and Sony 70-300.
The Tamron wins on image quality but I’m afraid the 75mm difference with 105mm might not be ideal. The 300mm reach is nice but that lens is becoming old quickly.

Anyone resolved this dilemma?

Hola buenas, he grabado videos y siempre sin problema los descargo completos y con el sonido. Esta vez los archivos se encontraron fragmentados, es decir, en lugar de un único video original estaba dividido en varios archivos de videos, sin sonido y más extraño aún faltaba un archivos de video, es decir una parte de video no estaba. Repito, antes he podido descargar videos de lo más normal.

Probé ene otra computadora en la que si pude descargarlos con sonido, parece que eso del sonido es algo de alguna put7 actualización de windows, sin embargo, los videos seguían estando fragmentados y el que me falta tampoco estaba.

Lo raro es que en la galeria de la cámara si esta el video completo y con sonido.

¿Alguien entiende qué esta pasando y cómo solucionarlo?

Gracias,

Saludos.

Need some real-world advice before I spend the money.

I make educational/talking-head content (psychology-focused) — mostly solo in a room, fixed or lightly moving shots, not run-and-gun. Trying to decide between the Sony FX3 and FX30, and now that the FX5 just officially launched (July 22), I'm also wondering how that changes the used-market picture for FX3/FX30.

Questions for people who've actually shot with either:

Q1. For static/talking-head work, does the FX3's full-frame sensor make a real difference over the FX30's APS-C, or is that overkill for my use case?

Q2. Autofocus/eye-AF reliability for solo talking-head shooting — any issues with either body?

Q3. Low-light and skin tone rendering in a controlled room setup — is FX30 good enough with proper lighting, or does FX3 clearly pull ahead?

Q4. Now that the FX5 is real (not a rumor) and sits above the FX3 in price/positioning, do you expect FX3/FX30 used prices to actually soften, or does the FX5 launching not really move that market?

Q5. If anyone's selling their FX3 or FX30 (especially in India), feel free to DM:-)

Tell me about your AF set up for street photography

I am in either manual or aperture priority, with DMF and back button focusing (AF w/shutter = off)

I'm struggling with back button focus because my hands are too big to hit that AND shutter with one hand

I assume i just have to go with normal AF-S or AF-C on the shutter half-press

But if anyone has an alternative method, let me know

Hi all,

i own an a7C2 + 20-70f4 G + 50 f1.8 sony.
Taiwan is my next destination and id like to add a zoom lens for city/landscapes.

Budget is not a "big" problem, of course spending 2x on the 70-200f4 macro needs to be well justified.
Im not sure if its better to leave my 20-70 in the bag and just use the 25-200.

In case i keep and use the 20/70, is the 70-200 a good choice over the 70-300?

I think i'll use my 20/70 in the city for street photography. I dont know how much of a problem switching between 20/70 and a zoom is, for landscapes and natural environment.
I'll carry all my photography tools (included a film camera) in a sling bag, so carrying is not a problem.

Hi there, please ignore how dirty the third pic looks, I haven't dared touch the mirror yet since it's so fragile. There's lots of dust on it.

As the title says I recently got an a77 II body second-hand but it's already at ~153.000 shutter actuations so it's obviously dying a bit. I'm getting these shadows rather consistently in every other picture I take (or occasionally in every third or fourth), and every so often the white streaks that can be seen in pics one, three and four. I'm guessing that this is all fault of the shutter as the camera seems to have been given lots of love by its previous owner and is in almost mint condition. It is a joy to shoot.

I'm posting to hear what you wonderful people think and if you might have any advice since this is my first foray into SLT's. From what I've read replacing the shutter should pretty much make the camera good as new since it's the only component prone to failing, so I'm guessing that that is going to be my next step, but I'm curious if there is anything else I should keep in mind or if there is perhaps anything I'm missing that can be gauged from these pics. I'm willing to provide more examples, and pictures of the camera itself too if necessary.

Thank you for reading!

EDIT: Mistery Solved, I've checked pictures of me taken by my wife on the days that I took the shots with strong vignetting, and it turns out I was able to mount the 24-105 hood on the 20-70 lens.

I'm a f***ing idiot.

Hi,

as per title I've shot multiple photos with my A7CII and the 20-70 f4, and I cannot understand why a lot of them have an enormous vignetting while others have the vignetting that is normally to be expected from the lens.

I've attached two pictures, both of them are export of the raws without any lens correction.

While the one with the normal vignetting gets perfectly corrected both from the camera auto shading correction setting and both by Lightroom lens correction, the other does not and some vignetting remain very visibile even after maximum software correction.

The problem is that I have no idea what could have caused the vignetting in first place, as far as I remember the two photos were take with same settings and conditions.

Can somebody with more experience help me understand what happened here?

Salve a tutti! Premetto che faccio video principalmente in palestre, non così tanto illuminate, ma comunque neanche tanto buie. Volevo esporvi il mio dubbio, mi hanno detto che con il profilo colore HLG3 è necessario sovrapporre tra +0,3 e +0,7, io solitamente parto con un IS0 a 800 (che dovrebbe essere l’ISO nativo della A7III) ma siccome riprendo delle persone in movimento può capitare che l’esposizione si modifichi, magari spesso può andare a finire anche a -2 magari se riprendo un qualcosa di scuro, quindi l’unico modo che sono riuscito a trovare per bloccare l’esposizione è mettere ISO in automatico, e quindi posso bloccare completamente la ghiera dell’esposizione al valore che decido io, tanti mi hanno detto che non va bene perché con l’ISO automatico rischio di avere continui modifiche di luminosità del video e che gli iso devono rimanere fissi a 800.
Mi sono ingegnato facendo una cosa: ho messo ISO automatico, e però ho regolato ISO minimo 800 e ISO massimo 800, così praticamente non si può spostare l’ISO, ed è come se lo mettessi in manuale fisso. Cosa ne pensate?
La mia paura è quella di avere l’esposizione che diventa troppo variabile e quindi non mi fa uscire dei buoni video alla fine se non espongo ai valori richiesti… aiuto sto diventando matto. Ahahahaha

I started photography with a Sony α6000(Kitlens+55-210) and later upgraded with a Sony α6500. Now I want to go for full frame cameras selecting one for Hybrid and another for Only photography. I choose to buy Sony A7M5 for Hybrid mode.

Should I go for a high res camera for photography(like A7R5) or use the money to buy more range lenses. I generally do Travel/Flower/Train/Landscape/Bird/Airplane photography.

I currently use E55-210 along with FE85F1.8 lens

All comments are welcome.