Hi guys, so I have a 1988 V6 Mustang I paid way more than what I should have for it experiencing some coolant loss issues and some overheating issues I just recently bought a new radiator fan and I’m always good on coolant. There’s no leak in the bottom either but the gauge just keeps on going to the red sometimes some coolant comes out of the reservoir a little bit, but I let it cool down and after that, it drives fine until it heats up again, even though the fan is running, I think I am experiencing a blown head gasket but I’m not experiencing no smoke coming out the tailpipe and my oil isn’t looking milky, thick or super liquidy. If it is a blown head gasket should I just replace the whole engine? i’m hearing that it takes several hours to do the head gasket job and that it might just be better just to pull the whole engine out and replace it with a new one if so, what type of engine I’ve never pulled an engine out before in my life so this is all really brand new to me.

Update
So I went ahead and ran a test to see if my thermostat was closed both the top pipe and the bottom pipe that move water into the engine. We’re pretty warm after the car got up to temperature so that means the thermostat does work.
I’m down to
À cloged radiator
B bad coolant cap that’s not holding 16 psi
C head gasket

Edit
What do you guys think of head gasket sealer ?

Been working on Mustang Sally for two years and some clown just took her.

EDIT: Mustang Sally was recovered by the police today. No word yet on what condition she’s in.

Looking for a motor for my ‘98 GT & found this from a guys ‘97 GT part-out (blown trans). Has 87k miles on it & wants $850. (Talked down from $1k) Other than the cats being off, how does the motor sound to you guys ? I think it sounds solid but always want second opinions, thanks !

Hello again Mustang people of the internet. I am having complications with my 1998 Gt Mustang (4.6L) where the clutch is, to put it lightly, very bad. Trying to engage the clutch feels like hitting a wall or it sticks. I cannot get my car to go into gear.
Some background:
Clutch is changed. Had some other clutch related issues, therefore I replaced it with a MCLEOD Street pro clutch kit
Replaced transmission due to grinding in 3,4, and not engaging in reverse
Redid my gears and back end due to them being destroyed and also being the wrong gears (I now have 4 10 gears)
New clutch cable because i thought the one I had was fine then my car wouldn’t go into gear, only thing I didn’t replace until recently.

So I’m now back at my problem I have been having for the last few months that is just getting worse. The clutch is not engaging and the car won’t go into gear. I can get it to the floor sometimes but then the transmission grinds when I try to put into gear. Sometimes it won’t engage at all. It feels like trying to push a wall, with your feet, and it won’t move. It feels stuck. Clutch isn’t fluent it started sticking until the point until I press it down it won’t move an inch. Again cannot put into gear. This problem has only been getting worse and now has left me stranded twice. Has this happened to anyone else? Anyone experiencing something similar? Is this transmission bad? Are there things I should be checking? Is there possibly something I’m over looking. Google has been no help and so now I come to you.

All parts that are done/new are
Clutch, flywheel, throw out barring, adjustable clutch cable (aftermarket), spool, 4 10 gears, rear end rebuild kit, swapped out transmission with a used one

Coworkers vehicle. The rear axle is shifted to the passenger side an 1 1/2”. I am wondering if there are missing pieces to the rear end and what they are called. Pictures with the pen highlight the possible missing pieces. Thanks!

So my 97 has been sitting in storage for the past almost 2 years due to me waiting for bilateral hip replacement surgeries which took my ability to walk and especially drive until they're done. The car hasn't been started the entire time while sitting and had no issues before being parked. My concern is when I am able to get back in and drive will I need a complete rebuild or drain all fluids and attempt starting. I know i will have to look at hoses and electrical connections before attempting to drive again but anyone have anything similar thats happened as far as sitting for this long and then getting the car going again?

Driving 1600 miles from Green Bay to Florida, one sides torque box is very rusted, ones is just rusty. I did it last year, but how do I install these team Z torque box kits in a 96 3.8 v6 coupe?

I have a couple vacuum leaks and when I fix one another pops up, using a smoke machine I can see smoke coming out of what looks like the Diaphragm of my EGR valve

My only uncertainty is That it doesn’t seem like it’s plugged in, no plugs or vacuum lines are running to it, would this be causing any symptoms of a vacuum leak? If so do I replace it and leave it how it was or try and hook every thing up?

I was driving her earlier and everything was fine till I got off of work; as I turn her on she starts shaking non stop and whenever I try to even press the gas it’s almost stuttering not wanting to go faster and whenever I tried to do so I heard a pop almost every time. Engine sounds week like on life support week, and the RPMs you’ll see. (issue resolved)

Doing a motor swap on my ‘98 v6, the car is Manual but the “new” engine is from an automatic. I’m at the step in the swap where I need to do the pilot bearing for the manual trans, both the pilot bearing that came with my clutch kit and the new one I just bought from Advanced auto (for the T-5 and 3.8l), after my brothers FIL destroyer the other one, are seating outside of the crank. This is the first time I have done this, so I asked for help and the fourth picture is where I got with said “help”.

Anyway, is this the wrong bearing, is it somehow different between the manuals and autos? The bearing from my original engine is flush with the lip on the crank.