No Words 😂

Heard some really bad metal grinding in the rear and found this. What could be the cause of this and how often? Also new axle or repair?

If for some reason you were to lose/sell your s2000, what fun car would you replace it with that is not another s2000?

IG: @I_am_g3uoo

hi guys,

quick question i’m going to be making my s2000 look a bit cooler as i’ve done all my “expensive” mods now (lowering springs, exhaust, induction kit and wheels) and i purchased some rx7 side skirts from ebay to put on.

i was a bit hesitant at first as they’re a little battered from the previous owner but a bodyshop can sort them and i’m worried about scraping, but i’ve stumbled across the oem side skrates and i really like them.

instead of attempting to sell the side skirts is it possible to fit both the side skrates AND the side skirts at the same time? would it look weird or overdone?

any advice would be great. thanks.

pic of my car as reference.

was my 2001 ap1 with ~98k miles. got into an accident and front end damage is pretty irreparable. engine and transmission is still strong, been thinking about either parting out or pursing a engine swap into a shell project. wondering what the market is like for shells, seen some of fb for ridiculous prices.

Just saw a very small maint reqrd pop up on the bottom of the dashboard. Never seen this on 30k of driving. Don’t have a manual. Help?

Parked the car at noon and covered it. Got home from work 9:30 tonight and saw this. Luckily I had a spare stopper on hand from when the clutch switch failed.

The brake lights burned 9 hours. Of course the battery is dead now. Tail lamps were hot, but hopefully the sockets aren't melted. Is there a reason Honda chose to use a degradable plastic for the stoppers?

The previous owner swapped my transmission before selling it to me and told me i could take the old one. Problem is he used a ap1 and i have a 3rd gear grind now. Would it be possible to use the ap1 casing and buying that gear that's messed up to get my original ap2 transmission working again and back in the car?

4 months of weekend work while working full time. Finally finished and drove it for the first time yesterday (summer is back on).

Did all the work myself except the top install. Spend ~13k. Owned this car for almost 10 years. It was my daily for 8.

EDIT: Bought at 86k miles in 2017, now has 173k miles. Has driven across the U.S. multiple times.

EDIT2: missing from the list (but work I also did):

New OEM PCV valve, OEM oil inlet and outlet hoses and spring clamps, a few other hoses and o rings, serpentine belt, all fluids, OEM outer tie rods, and new CR shift knob.

I just bought a 10,000 mile 2003. For the last 10 years the car's been driven about 30 miles per year (literally to and from an oil change once per year at a local Honda dealer). In 2019 (about 200 miles ago) it had:

• Antifreeze/Coolant flushed
• Brake fluid flushed
• Differential fluid flushed
• Rear diff fluid flushed

Curious what I should think about doing before using this car as a weekend driver?

Thanks for suggestions!

Hi all, I have a trackday scheduled for Thunderhill West in approximately 3 weeks.

How's everyones experience and thoughts on how the OEM cooling system is able to handle 100*F ambient air temps at an advance pace?

I'm considering getting the SBG oil cooler but considering the radiator is likely original, may get the MrSideways radiator instead.

I have an oil temp gauge to monitor oil temps

It's been almost a decade since I've been at Thunderhill in the summer and want to set my expectations.

Any insight would be appreciated! Thanks!

Recently had clutch fluid done with master cylinder and am sometimes getting a slight gear grind when slowing to a light etc when trying to move the shifter (clutch fully down). I was also told by the shop my trans fluid didn't need to be done however I do think it's at minimum a few years old (If not original. I have had the car a few months), so I'm just curious about this as well.

One other thing I was getting before the fluid and master were done (and still am) is an occasional prop shaft 'shudder' (as if I'm taking off too quickly without enough revs as I let out the clutch) as I approach stop signs etc fully clutched in as well.

The shop is pure transmission focused so I want to trust them but I'm just totally unsure.

Suggestions on where to sell a modified 2000 s2000. Garage kept, zero rust, clean title, dirty carfax 133,000 located in NY - 13760. Modification includes Science of Speed Turbomax kit, all supporting mods. Sitting on AP2 wheels, and BC Racing Coils. Stock components included. $17000 range would be ideal.

Hey all,

Did a valve adjustment at 58k miles. Previous owner didn’t do it. All the valves were tight but not too tight. A few were pretty tight. Attached is a video of it cold running right after I did the adjustment. Mind letting me know if it sounds okay?

It definitely got more “clickety-clackety” than before. Before it sounded more like a ‘tight’ motorcycle engine. I did a compression check before (230, 230, 233, 240). I plan on doing it again soon.

I did lose some lower end torque, but gained more mid range torque. Is this common?

Thanks all

I need help. I just got this s2k back on the road after sitting for 18 years. After a week of driving around i wanted to change the injectors to fresh new oem ones. so I took the rail off and I replaced the injectors. when i was installing them I made sure to lube the o ring and the gasket that goes into the manifold, and so i turned it over and now it sounds like a dead miss. Almost like a vacuum leak. ive been going nuts trying to trace down every van line and make sure that nothing was pull of when i replaced the injectors. I also took the injectors back out and inspected them to make extra sure I did not damage the o-rings when installing.
I checked to make sure every injector was firing with a long screwdriver to my ear and it all sounded good.
i am yet it to the compression test but the only thing that will revile is a washed out bore.
ALSO Key clue, when i press the gas it stalls out more
AND when i start it the idle sounds good until the rpms come back down after start up.

SO sounds good for 5 seconds then dead miss. got a all cilender miss fire code there is good fuel going to the rail. intake passed the smoke test. ran just fine before installing the new injectors. confirmed spark from all coil packs and new plugs.

Well following on from my previous posted on the seized caster bushes on the front, with then seized toe and camber bushes on the rear. It's a job I don't want to ever do again... lots of slicing, sweating, swearing 😄

Having said that all refreshed now with full Spoon bushes, new bolts (almost everywhere), and Bilstein suspension, it's ready for a full alignment, but I have to wait for an appointment as this needs to be exact and the top-guy is on vacation.

Getting the right height right was a bit of a faff, but the front is now at 648mm and the rear at 658mm (10mm positive rake). So around it's ~10mm drop from OEM, happy with this as I don't like the overly lowered look.

There's a definite mental win on getting this done - looking forward to taking it for a spirited drive.

Originally had 50/35 and now 30/20, looks way better!

I’m playing to buy my cmc on rockauto bc its leaking but shipping is expensive as fuck(in canada) so I’m looking for ideas on what to buy there that i will probably need/forgetting to bundle it up.