My car was running rough, so I decided to take the throttle off and clean it and re go through some of the adjustments I got the tps basically set and now somehow my car only starts for a second to about 900rpm and then dies and no longer wants to start, almost smells so rich that it wont fire, before it would atleast start and it had a rough idle but nothing that doesn’t need just gone through. Any help is appreciated, my o2 and afm sensor are not plugged in if that helps, but it ran before with those unplugged.

My car was running rough, so I decided to take the throttle off and clean it and re go through some of the adjustments I got the tps basically set and now somehow my car only starts for a second to about 900rpm and then dies and no longer wants to start, almost smells so rich that it wont fire, before it would atleast start and it had a rough idle but nothing that doesn’t need just gone through. Any help is appreciated, my o2 and afm sensor are not plugged in if that helps, but it ran before with those unplugged.

finally got around to tearing down my 80 12A, first engine rebuild in general so be patient lol. wanted to post some pictures to see if anyone see any red flags to throwing hard and soft seals at this beauty and calling it a day, i’d like to port it as well from my understand a street port is the easiest to achieve reliability ( please correct me if wrong )

car has 35k original miles, was leaking oil out the sides of the keg, previous owner seems to have tried to jbweld the leaks lol. nothing stuck out in tear down other than the worm of gasketesk material i found in second photo? and nearly all the smaller oil control rings were not in the rotors on removal (not sure if this is unusual)

happy to share in depth pictures or video if anyone will take the time to audit them!

Its near OEM, mod list includes:
Wheel spacers
Mazdaspeed shift knob
99' spec rear wing

Issues:
Tachometer has the rev gauge not working and the right turn signal indicator light not working.
Shifter play/excessive movement on shifter while driving (should be able to fix with new mounts?)
lack of leg room under steering wheel (even with seat all the way back my leg hits the wheel when letting out of the clutch)

Overall an insanely fun car to drive, everything I expected and more!

Was pressing my bearings in and this happened to my side seals. Side seals don't fit properly anymore.

Is this some I can fix with a tiny file or this may cause issues down the line?

Any advice is appreciated!

Plan on getting it up on jacks this weekend but was curious if anyone had any ideas on what a likely cause would be?

The other three wheels sound solid but the front right has a bit of a clanking noise to it that’s noticeable when driving.

I’ve noticed people asking for what seems to be different price ranges. Really different actually. If you go on marketplace, you’ll find anywhere between people asking for $60,000 for clean FD examples from private sellers, to $30-$35,000 clean examples from the reputable, rotary places.

Why is that the case? There doesn’t seem to be a true range to go off of. You can argue that the more expensive ones have tons of modifications, which is the case sometimes but I’ve also seen matching stock examples comparable to the ones I mentioned at Rotary shops, going for almost double the price. I guess I’m just confused on what the true value of these cars are. Is it what people pay for them?

So I messed up on my rear rotor. I thought I could eyeball the alignment of the notch, but I messed up and ended up having to press it back out and put it back in. In the process I nicked the bearing interior and there is a slight scratch that catches my fingernail.

I am planning to replace that one, does anyone have any advice for next time?

And should I be concerned about the metal shavings visible in the photos (edge of bearing)

Thank you!

Hello everyone! I'm hopefully in the process of buying a non-running 1987 RX-7 shortly. I've always wanted a rotary, and I've done my research. Yes, I have the budget for any mistakes, you could say, but I wouldn't say I'm a complete beginner—I work on cars a lot. Yes, I know rotaries are different! Anyway, I was planning on putting a carburetor on the 13B. It's naturally aspirated, and I didn't really want to deal with the EFI or anything. So, my question to you guys is: has anyone done this before, had a good outcome, and can give me some advice for my journey?

Dad’s 1993 was taken apart for a rebuild in 2010 and unfortunately stayed apart. This weekend we took the first steps to get it back on the road by fixing a no crank issue.

It’s lived in 3 different garages since it came apart. I’m hoping we can stay motivated to finally see it through and get it to the point he can drive it again.

I have no idea what I'm looking at, I googled a bunch of images but can't really say for sure? Is this even enough of an image to say if it is or isn't? Haha Are they even visually different? Haha

It's a Grade 4 car with just 23,479 km (14,589 miles), finished in Innocent Blue Mica.

It's got plenty of upgrades as well. The auction sheet lists a nice selection of period modifications including:

TRUST titanium exhaust

HKS intercooler

ARC aluminium radiator

SARD sports catalytic converter

HKS F-CON ECU

Racing Gear suspension

NARDI steering wheel

Yokohama Advan alloy wheels

Additional gauges

The inspector has also highlighted a few things people should be made aware of.

The AC is faulty.

Aftermarket bonnet and front wings fitted.

The rear arches have been rolled.

There's some wear and a small tear to the driver's seat, the dashboard has started lifting slightly, along with light surface rust underneath, I've attached the under shot to show what light surface rust looks like in Japan 😂. There are also a few repaired areas around the body, which is reflected on the damage diagram.

Overall though, it still looks like a decent RX 7 with some nice modifications and I'm not to sure on the mileage being correct as its got no service history with it.

The starting price is ¥3,280,000, but I think it'll sell somewhere around ¥7,000,000 to ¥7,500,000, which is roughly £32,000 to £34,500 or $47,000 to $51,000 USD. Then again, you never really know with RX 7s. If two people really want it, it could easily go for more.

Either way, I thought it was a pretty cool example worth sharing.

What do you reckon it'll hammer for?

Anyone have any recommendations on who to go through for machine work? I'm in the Midwest and don't have anyone who can machine rotaries around me. I'm wanting to get rotors side clearanced and lightened, rotors balanced and possibly some port work. Full bridge and maybe pp

18x9.5 +22 SA3R's with 215/35 Nitto Neo Gens on PBM comp coilovers.

I just bought a torn down t2 motor and was going thru the rotors and cleaning rust off them. I noticed this marking and was wondering if it was still good to use or if I need to get a new rotor

Hello everyone,

I have a '99 RS that came with factory power locks and the keyfob remote. I ordered replacements but I need to locate the module to program the new fobs. I've been looking for information on where the module is located but I haven't really found anything. I think it might be in the door but I don't really want to take the card off to program it if I can help it.

Does anyone know where the reciever is located? If it is in the door, then it can't be helped.

Acquired an 88 vert. It’s my buddies car; he’s military and just got deployed. He left me with the car until he gets back and I’m gonna make sure it’s running perfect and prettied up when he gets back.
I believe it was once turbo charged but could be wrong. Not carbureted and is a 13b.

I’ve built motors before, specialize in bikes more than anything. Got enough brain on me to know how a rotary works, and can learn pretty well on my own. But I’m pretty stumped here.

Few issues,

1. It doesn’t idle.
   I’ve adjusted the screw ontop the intake, I’ve discovered there’s 5 valves on the throttle body and looked into that. Lots of voodoo there. Lots of fuel smell, so a leak somewhere. Haven’t seen visually yet. Could be a vacuum line installed wrong or leaking.

2. Overheats like hell.
   I’ve re bled a shit ton by now. Gonna replace the oil and filter soon (20w50 for these humid 90° summers right?)
   Pretty sure the fan is running backward and sucking hot out instead of cold in. Big factor for sure. But I also feel like it needs some directional shrouding? Just feels like lots of messy air moving around. (Aftermarket radiator and fans unknown branding)

3. ?
   When taking the car home after I drove him back to his base, I was getting on the interstate at a normal pace, heavy ish on the gas. Lil energetic. Nothing bad or illegal no speeding just, a nice acceleration into the flow of traffic at a more fun pace.
   Suddenly I started feeling power drop as I was still on the gas, watched rpm’s fall as I tried to give it a lil more, looked behind me and saw nothing anymore but white smoke.

I figured right then and there “eh we literally just crossed 200,200k (celebrated that during his goodbye to the car) when I dropped him off. Wouldn’t doubt if it was an apex seal or something”

Waited probably 20-30 minutes to let the car cool down. Noticed a huge access of oil coming from the charcoal canister and one of the vaccuum valves going to what I think is the pcv valve? (Not sure can show photo in comments tomorrow.) was undone from its spot. Got everything right, engine was still hot/warm, took a second to start up. But it drove the rest of the 3 hour drive home 0 problems…
Until I let it sit for a few days, that’s when problems 1 and 2 started up.

If you made it this far much love 🫶🏼 just wanting to learn more about these guys I love them already.

I’m desperate for an FC RX-7 but I can’t currently afford to get a nice hatchback. I found this dog on facebook marketplace for $2,800. Yes its a convertible, yes it has 220k miles, but its manual, and supposedly starts and runs well. I’m not planning on it living for a long time, just until I can get the next best thing. Is it worth checking out?

Got the cluster partially installed having trouble getting the cluster hood clips installed any advice on that would be appreciated.
Also no it’s not at 9000 rpm lol that’s the last reading when it was tested

While driving to work, I guess I was having too much fun and I believe my front rotor detonated, causing it to die on me. I limped it home, and parked it in the garage. After going through the 5 stages of grief after doing a compression, I've decided i need to finish up the 5 other project cars at the house before I do a rotary teardown and rebuild. I was looking for advice/suggestions on how to store the car since it'll be about a year before I get to work on it. Also, I'm assuming the front rotor housing and faces are trashed so if theres any recommendations on part sourcing or what route i should go with the rebuild, its all open ears. End goal of the rebuild is ~600 hp on E85, standalone haltech nexus S3, OMP delete, currently single turbo BW K27 and will keep that, plus I'm already looking into stud and solid dowel setup for torsion and separation mitigation. Thanks in advance!

Looking to upgrade my suspension from BCs to a set of Feal Suspension. ( they're local to me, southern california) they're not perfect but they're fully functional. Just missing one of the allen key dampening adjusters. Ill let them go for a great price! Let me know.

I have a mostly stock 13b fd with the stock twins (power fc, decat kakimoto exhaust)

If i wanted to shoot flames sometimes would it destroy the turbos or anything and would I just raise the fuel cut value to 8000rpm?

I assume it will chug even more fuel and get very warm?

I recently picked up an 81, have the key to it but its absolutely wrecked so i just dropped the column and now it steers and the stalks and keyswitch follow the wheel🤣

Can anyone identify these housings? One appears to be S5 Turbo but the knock sensor hole is not threaded, the other has a weirdly shaped knock sensor area and again no threads.

The rest of the motor is S4 turbo (G castings, centre iron knock sensor threads, 2 bolt OMP)