I do a fair bit of tuning on R53s and needed a more portable data logger. Couple days of sniffing ISTA and I've got a tool. Still working on the graph and I have to wire up my wideband ble injector. This is so much better than generic OBD2 data..

I only have facelift (silver case) ecu's on hand but that's all I use anyway and everyone should upgrade and immo delete while they are at it...

any features I should build into this? I did tiered polling so it does some channels fast and some like SFT/LFT slower to keep spark/rpm/injector faster

My first android app went live this week, it'll be a while before this one can be published as I tie up loose ends with my pyrometer

Hi everyone! I got an r53 last year, it has 147k and the transmission is going out. I'm going to replace both. I found a used engine and they sent me videos of the compression test. I've looked at all the forums and did a bunch of searches but confused on what is good and what isn't. I would really appreciate your feedback on what you think. Thank you in advance 🙏

So basically I’m trying to code my car (R52 S) through NCS Expert and it just doesn’t work.

What I do is:

- Read my car

- Use Revtor’s NCS Expert Profile

- CODIERDATEN_LESEN on BC1

Put that TRC file into NCS Dummy

Activate/deactivate all I want (for example passenger window going up with a single click)

- Export to .MAN

- SG_CODIEREN

- Execute job and get no errors

- Then nothing changed.

When I read the file again which I just wrote (with all the edits) the edits are still the way I wanted them, if that makes sense.

So the TRC file still has everything aktiv / nicht_aktiv but for some reason my passenger window still won’t go up automatically.

I been at it for hours now with no luck. Please comment or DM if you can help me out.

Has anyone had experience with aftermarket clutches, specifically Clutchmasters? I recently got a setup from them including flywheel and the slave cylinder no longer disengages the clutch. It was professionally installed and bled and still no go.

I've been in touch with Clutchmasters but they have not been the most helpful. They've stated that even though the setup is built for the car it is a different size, single vs. dual mass flywheel. They do not however have any fix or help.

I'm just wondering if there is anything I can do other than try and return the setup? It is slightly used because we've tried to make it functional.

Did an oil pan gasket this past weekend and never have seen a rotating assembly in person.

I bought this thing in September. Haven’t been able to get to dolling her up as my E55 keeps taking all my fun money. And as much as I’d like to keep it. I’d hate for it to sit another winter without some love.
It’s an 06 Slicktop. 89k. 2nd owner. All original except for a tasteful H&R rear sway that’s probably been there since day 1. Usual r53 issues ( oil seeping, headliner sag, rusty hole under right tail)

What do we think ?

I was looking to install this maxx-g m7 camber links, but asking for reviews.
I’ve seen some camber links in eBay, I think the brand is maXpeding, that are more than have cheaper than the M7. Guidance please.

Seriously. It's a clown. I've had my R53 since 2006 and have had this thing staring at me the whole time! This part: 63316937955. What are these design cues!? Nowhere else is there anything with rounded arrows like the "eyebrows" here. Circles, yes, but... ugh! It even has the "painted teardrops" with orange ambiance lighting! This thing could be redesigned to integrate into the sunroof controls and the mirror with circles instead of this crap. Do I have to buy a 3D printer to do this? Literally the worst part on my car. But I love it otherwise.

Looking for an R53, I’m located in the North west of England and willing to travel up to 3 hours. Please message me if you are interested in selling.

Ok so I have a mini cooper s 2006 and I have a bad valve body. I am not too well versed in cars so I am not sure what the exact problem is. The lady at the shop told me that I could put a new transmission in. She said it would be anywhere from 3000-8000+ depending if the transmission is new or used. I think I would prefer a new one because old one could also have more problems. For reference I bought the car two years ago for 4000 and have put equal that into the cars service. Is it worth fixing or should I consider a new mini? I only have max 9000 for a new car.

How hard is it to change this connector? Is it just those 2 clamps and that 1 bolt or?

Is there mushrooming or not?

What's going on with these shock mounts, they ain't more than 2 years old.

Hello guys! I have purchased an R53 in very good condition, however, some small bits are missing as:
Steering Wheel badge is cracked
Paint on hood(bonnet) badge is gone and I need new one
Wheel hub caps(I found some but I can't measure them properly, I am afraid to order wrong ones)

I can't find hood(bonnet) badge and steering wheel badge (3sp steering wheel) on Temu/alibaba/Facebook marketplace(Cyprus)

Can you guys tell me where can I find those parts or drop me some links?

Thanks in advance!

I unplugged the car seats without disconnecting the battery. Now the srs light stays on even if the ecu memory is cleared. Is there any way that i can fix this ? I already plugged the seats back in and the battery was connected and disconnected several times in between. Thanks for your help !!

I got an upgraded top mount intercooler for my 2005 R52 Mini Cooper S, and I'm trying to figure out what the best DIY diverter seal is that is 1) not too pricy/time consuming 2) doesn't look jank. I'm thinking about using some sort of heat resistant foam and sticking it to the hood so when the hood is down, the foam makes a nice seal with the intercooler. I'm not entirely sure how this stuff works, so I have a few questions:

• What type of foam won't melt/deform from direct contact with the aluminum intercooler?
• How thick does the foam have to be?

The intercooler dimensions are: 232x300x62mm (core), 256x423x65mm (overall)

All help is greatly appreciated! Alternative solutions are also welcome.

So i was trying to replace my engine mount and got the wrong one so just decided to swap the bracket as well but i snapped one of the bolts and the end of it is still on the engine. Right now it is mounted only on 3 bolts, will it last? And do i just drill out the old bolt? Help😭

Also anyone got the part number of the bolt?

I’ve tried searching but can’t quite find the answer I need. Everyone knows to disconnect the battery before replacing seats. If you don’t it triggers the airbag warning light. Say I buy I used pair from someone who didn’t do that. Does that fault code travel with the seats, or do I not have to worry about it? Just so long as I disconnect the battery on my car before putting them in.

Hi everyone, my rear facelift outer exhaust hanger broke.

Already bought the hanger from the dealer but I need the bolts to put it back,

The old one broke inside so I need to extract them but no idea about the specs of them,

Anyone?

Update :

That sht is WELDED to a thin part of the châssis, i percies it using a 6.8mm bit, ( even though it’s an 8mm thread)

Then used a 1962 thing my father had buried somewhere to put a new threqd pattern, then I just used another 8mm bolt with loctite

For now it works just fine !!

Lot of things happened this week, got the brake calipers painted (black, nothing special, just to make them look fresh), replaced the chrome beltline with good used parts, new wiper arms, new performance bypass valve and to finalize everything: the JCW Airbox.

Yes, because the flap is intact it doesn‘t sound as nice as it could but it‘s road legal. Biggest change though is the bypass valve. Car feels much better now, old one was in a very rough shape.

Next: Oil cooler, intercooler, oil change and some more smaller things attached to this kind of work.

There have been a few posts lately about the very common rust problem around the tail lights. Here's my experience about fixing the left side bottom 4 years ago.

There were these nasty bubbles below the tail light, so I removed the paint and found a substantial whole, showing that also the panel below the body panel was rusted. These bits were then cut off, which revealed that the rust had spread a lot further underneath than what was showing on the outer surface.

So we made the hole bigger until there was just healthy metal underneath. Then a mate with mad welding skills made a replacement panel, and another mate finished the surface with filler and a lick of paint.

And now 4 years later here's a little bubble in the paint left side of the tail light about half way up, so we should have probably replaced the whole rear quarter really...

My dad changed those and now the car is deeper. ECPECIALLY the left side. When we turn it makes a loud knocking sound. It started after like 4 weeks. I have an r56 and mine aren’t poking out like this

So we all know the Gen1s have an issue with rust under the rear lights. I can’t find a perm fix, or a preventative effort to stop the rot.

I’m going to get this fixed (open to best course of action here) but I really want to know how to stop this in the future.

(Note I dug this out today to expose it all and wire-brushed it, then soaked with gun oil, hence it looks wet, as a temp stemming of the tide.)

Estoy montando la caja de solenoides y no sé dónde va esta pieza

It’s a super charger model, 130-ish on the clock, good enough deal I can invest some dollars into it. I’ve done some research online what to look for but would appreciate hearing from owners in this sub must haves, do and don’ts. Thanks