LMR Finally decided to release these lol, they boutta go outta stock. Get them while u can

Ok so I am in the middle of a clutch replacement and I cant get the trans (tremec 3650) to seat the least half inch. after pulling it out and not seeing any grease on the input shaft it looks like I am hitting on the pilot bearing. Best guess is that I don't have the clutch itself aligned because of the cheap tool. so I just need to loosen it and center it better.

However, I cant find anywhere if these are torque to yield bolts or not. Even the factory manual that I have doesn't seem to specify any torque to yield bolts, including flywheel bolts (which I know are torque to yield). So I can't trust it that these aren't torque to yield.

In summary do any of you know for sure if I need to replace the bolts if I loosen them?

Also if you have any tips for reinstalling these trans (tremec 3650) I would very much appreciate it as its being a pain.

I recently replaced my intake manifold and accidentally forgot to add the coolant back, it ran fine for a while but I had recently gotten my AC fixed as well and running the AC on cold overheated the car at idle, after refilling it with coolant I'm not sure if the car will continue to overheat when idling, normally with the AC off the car idles at about 214° or 215° f but when the AC gets turned on the temperature goes up to about 220°, I turned the AC off when the temperature got to 221°, the high-speed fan never turned on though but everywhere I read online people say that 220° is overheating. I know that high-speed fan works because when I unplugged the coolant temperature sensor it kicked on high speed almost immediately. Basically all I'm asking is what temperature is the car's coolant supposed to reach when the AC is turned on and is it normal for it to be higher than 220° Fahrenheit or do I need to figure something out with the cooling system (I'm also going to leave this here the temperature of the coolant does go down with RPM increase it's mainly just overheating at idle)

I chained my harbor freight 1k lbs support bar to the 2 lower alternator bolts with the same amount of links for each side. Is this correct to drop the K member? This is my first time and I don’t want to mess up anything while doing my headers. Should I keep the bolts fully tight to the chain or leave a bit of slack? Thanks for all the help

Pretty sweet.

We did it! 99-01 Cobra Tail Lights are now available at LMR.com!

This is my 2004 Coyote swapped GT. Spent about 2.5yrs building it from a bare shell. Gen 1 Coyote & Cobra T56 with 4.10 rear gears. The color is Silver Jade. An OEM Ford color from the 60’s-70’s. Lowered on BC’s with Swift Springs. Cadillac ATS front brake calipers with Cobra rotors.

Volk TE37 Saga S-Plus wrapped in Toyo Proxes Sport II’s. Cobra R hood. Aerocatch hood latches. 99-01 Cobra front bumper with magic drift lip. Mach 1 sail panels & glass. V6 rear bumper bc the exhaust is ran thru the car and out the quarters. Quarters & front fenders are 100% OEM metal that have been body worked. Steeda rear wing.

Momo Start seats. Yellow seat belts. Ford Performance steering wheel. MGW shifter with a mahogany shift knob that I made. Arcien Designs 911 GT3 RS style door handle straps.

I’m on a bit of a social media break but @GavinB_SVT for more on IG.

Looking to replace my 25 yo springs(purely for maintenance and not cosmetic) and don’t want to lower it any as I’m running 18s, I can only find options that drop it by 1-1.5 inches minimum. Are there any options that are direct stock height replacements? I’d appreciate any links or suggestions

is it normal for the car to stay in high RPMS after i put it in neutral? Only happens when i have my AC on, i pop it into neutral when im coming to a complete stop but rpms stay a bit high until I completely stop. Doesnt Happen when im riding with the windows down with the AC off.

Drove to work one day with the ac on in 100 degree heat. Suddenly my ac goes lukewarm and my power is cut. I realize my temp gauge is up close to the red and I crank the heater on and it cools down the car within 4 minutes of regular driving. Drove it home and it didn’t overheat. I looked online and was told to check the coolant crossover pipe and here is what i see. How am I supposed to open this?

It's smoking Not really sure no engine light and the car seems to be driving ok. I changed the oil today. It was doing it before I changed the oil. Tranny fluid seems fine. Idk im taking it to the mechanics Thursday just wanted any advice. I understand it's hard to diagnose just on a video alone

I’ve heard 3.2 quarts but Also some do 4 I think I have 3.2 of conventional atf in right now

Debating on a wing for the (($900)) GT. Thoughts? Is the Cobra R wing too much/poor taste?

I just purchased this 2004 GT 5-speed last week knowing it needed some work done. I already knew it was leaking/burning some oil, but otherwise it ran and shifted good so I decided to buy it. I got it back to my shop where I went to replace the plugs only to find that three of them were covered in oil. With those replaced it runs even better but now produces more oil smoke. It only produces smoke on cold starts, after accelerating from idle, or small revs after idling for a minute. I haven't seen any smoke during normal idling, however. I assume that the valve stem seals are causing this issue, but I would like to get some other opinions on what this could be based on my description and the video.

So since I bought this car about a year ago it’s always had a miss at idle, it’s only more noticeable since i removed the muffler and it’s honestly pretty bothersome, it seems to clear up when it’s under load and when the AC is on it doesn’t seem to miss as much. I got a video of what little info my cheap scan tool can tell me if it’s any help. It’s got new plugs and coils, voltage is fine from the alternator and fuel pressure also looks good, i also sometimes have hard starts or it stumbles a second before starting. miss is worst when it’s cold and when it warms up it’s still there just not as frequent or loudly. Not sure what to make of it as I’ve checked for vac leaks on everything that goes to the intake plenum. just wondering if you all have had any similar issues since searching through forums hasn’t helped any.

Im going to put an O/R x pipe on the car soon and i’d rather not be able to hear this any louder than it already is lol

Had to replace my fuel tank and couldn't get the blue components off that these go into so I just plugged the holes from them in the new tank and want to delete them. What's the best way to do it?

For starters I’m a sheet metal tig welder so anything welding tig 18-26g isn’t a problem as I can do it well.
I’m just curious since I’ve never done a frame swap. Or even messed with a frame/chassis I suppose. The frame isn’t that rusted, like at all just a couple spots here and there with slight rust. However it’s got almost 200k miles on it and I’d like to somehow strengthen it and replace metal that has rust. Is it best to just cut rust pieces and spot weld pieces onto it or what’s the best course of action? The car is about done with a built LS3 and built TH400 swap so I’d like to take the time to do my frame. If anyone’s done it or has any advice lmk

Edit: before anyone hates on the ls in a ford. I’m a Chevy guy obsessed with camshafts who happens to have a mustang lol

I’m currently falling out of love with my new edge. For context it’s a 03 gt auto trans and it’s been having issues like blue smoke, (already replaced pcv hose and valve) Need new cats, need to work on my suspension and could also use a repaint since its fading. Should I stick with this car or should I save up for a 5.0. Plus speed is an obvious issue since I’m always getting gapped lol but at the same time I like the new edge mustangs.

It’s got some blue and metallic flakes here and there in the sun but still seems to be a black car. Would love to get a similar paint code for the purpose of getting a new bumper. Are there any you could recommend that would be similar to what you see in the pictures? Ford paint names and codes are greatly appreciated

I have a 2000 base model
Break lights won’t turn on when pressing on the breaks but they turn on when I turn the lights on what could be the issue?

Does anyone have recommendations for a 2 core radiator replacement with cooling power on par with a 3 or 4 core?

In my research I’ve learned 4 cores can at times reduce airflow, whereas you can achieve the same cooling with a larger faced 2 core and retain better air flow.

Now I’m just looking for brand recommendations that could drop right in with minimal modifications if any.

Thanks in advance!