Ive got a NZ Home Guard Long Lee, however the NZ home guard was only arpund between 1940 to 1943 during ww2 to defend New Zealand and it likely entered civilian sale around this time as they were civilian owned/issued, Im wondering, how can I see who it belonged to before that, what markings should I look for and where. I havent removed the top furniture yet, and id orefer not to but if required ill try. Im aware the screw and figure 8 is a lithgow and im in the works for finding replacements.

Number 1 mk3 table top restro

Date is pitted out. Looks like 1916?

Stock disk missing

Might redo this restro again. Not to happy with results.

did I make a mistake? maybe
there are no markings on the butt socket so no idea where it’s from either

Barrel is unsat, if anyone knows anyone selling a good condition barrel please point me in their direction.
1918 RSAF SMLE No. 1 MK 3

This is my first Milsurp. Bolt is Mismatched from the rest of the gun. I wanted a shooter and budgeted accordingly. Barrel is shiny no pitting and no obvious signs of throat errosion or muzzle wear.

I still need to get the striker removal tool so I can get a better read on how the bolt closes without having to over come the striker spring tension. In the current condition (extractor and extractor spring removed; I practiced getting it back together) the bolt closes the same feel with or without the Field Gauge (Forster .303 Brit, .074").

Safe to shoot? Can I replace the bolt head with a longer one if necessary or is that just a No.4 thing?

Identifiable markings on the bolt head. Crossed Swords on the top of the extractor houseing (proof mark?). On the face of the extractor housing is stamped "SA 56 C" and on the Side of the extractor housing is stamp "S 6". Bolt head measures .630-.631.

ETA: Those are dummy rounds on my bench

I found a mounting system for scopes from the brand badacetactical, and I know that ones used as a no drill/tap mounting system that still allows for the rear sight to be on the rifle. I believe this rifle has been drilled/tapped and no longer has its rear sight, is it still possible to remove this mount and replace it with the bad ace tactical one and install a new rear sight?

I went to an estate auction awhile back and won an auction on a gun safe and it had an old Lee Enfield in it. Its serials match. Looking to see if it has some value to it or keep it as a wall hanger.

Picked up this Mues Aperture Sight alongside the recent SMLE purchase I posted here recently. Appears to be missing the aperture cone but after a soak in CLP it is otherwise fully functional, neat little piece of history that seems to be somewhat uncommon

Hey folks, first post here but this is my 3rd Enfield. This just happens to be one I'll need help with.

It's a 1922 No.1 Mk V (s# 910) that's had the dreaded sporterized job and a hole tapped in the receiver but is in great condition otherwise, considering I paid $175 for it.

Found a place online that makes the wood furniture, and the other bits and bobs I'm not too worried about piecing together, but the thing I could use some guidance on is the rear sight slider. Even if I had a CAD drawing of one to take to a machine shop, I'd be ok with just to fill the space and use it until an original one comes along.

Any of you fellers know some places beyond ebay and GunBroker I could use to track one down?

Hi everyone, after some feedback on churchill sporter enfields please.🙏

Currently looking for a no1 mk3 in full military configuration aswell :)

Cheers

I bought a SMLE no.1 Mk3 1918 off gun broker, everything looks good on the outside but on the first box of ammo it’s key holing. BAD like 5 yards bad! I swapped to a new type of ammo and it’s shooting just fine.

Ammo Used:
.303 British S&B 180gr FMJ (Boat tail)
.303 British S&B 150gr SP (Flat Bottom)
The FMJ was the one tumbling, SP shot as expected.

I’ve read a few things online that say Mk3s don’t like boat tail projectiles. Has anyone else had this experience? Is it really just a bullet shape issue?

I didn’t take a picture of it but the 150gr soft point sticks out about a millimeter farther than the FMJ pictured below.

Edit: I’m having a borescope delivered tomorrow to take better pictures of the barrel

The safety is loose and it just falls back. How do I fiz this?

I recently shot my Lee Enfield, and when I was cleaning it, I noticed a small split in the stock right above the trigger. Can this be repaired or does this whole section need to be replaced?

Finally got around to fully pulling apart my rifle and took photos of the markings I found. Figured I would share them here and see if anybody had anything cool to share. Best I can figure out it’s a Fazakerley manufactured in 6/43. It’s a numbers matching, including the magazine, and without any obvious import marks.

I know what a lot of people would do is try to restore this with wood furniture and stuff, but I plan on using this rifle for hunting deer and elk here in the US. Are there any companies that sell full length synthetic stocks for these rifles?

Made an earlier post about my first Lee enfield rifle, and now I’m realizing I’m not sure if I have the right stuff to clean it. I’ve got a nylon, and brass brush, as well as a jag point for my cleaning cloths for a 30 caliber barrel. For my Henry lever rifle I use Break Through CLP and Hoppes no 9 bore cleaner. from what I can see online the clp isn’t ideal for these rifles. What is your preferred solvent and oil for these older rifles? I intend to use it as a hunting rifle if that changes what is typically used

Hello everyone! I recently bought one of my dream guns a 1943 Lee Enfield No.4 for 700 USD. I am really happy with the purchase but I was hoping y'all could help me figure out some of the other markings/tell me a little about it based off the markings. I tried looking it up myself but still having a problem with some of them like "AP" and what looks like "JZ" on the forestock just behind the barrel band, I did find the JC above it likely stands for "John Curtis and Son". It also has various faded markings on the left side of the receiver towards the barrel (I know those are a long shot to figure out). There is an X on the bolt as well that I haven't been able to figure out. It does have quite a few "S" (Bolt, barrel bands, magazine) markings which I believe are Savage. I can't take a picture of it that well but the rifling and bore look to be in pretty good condition. It does look like the serial numbers on the bolt, receiver, and magazine match but were at one point matched with each other. Two more questions I did have were if there was anyway to identify the manufacture based on any of the markings and if 700 was a fair price for the American market.

I've been told I have a head space issue, indicated by stress rings on spent brass. I'm trying to identify what model I have so I can try and purchase a new bolt head to reduce the head space issue, if possible. Problem is these markings don't match up to what I am finding online. Any help to identify the rifle model and the bolt head would be greatly appreciated.

1940 lee enfield mk3*

No samba deer yet, we'll see how we go tomorrow morning.