r/ItalyTravel • u/wanderlusting92 • 3h ago
Trip Report Trip report: 1 week in Rome & Bologna
Trip recap
Hello!
My husband and I (32M & 34F) got back from our trip last week and I wanted to share a recap. Reading other trip reports was so helpful when I was planning!
This post ended up being longer than I planned but hopefully it can be helpful.
We spent 3 nights in Rome and 4 nights in Bologna.
Day 1, Rome - Arrived in Rome around 10:30am on an overnight flight direct from Toronto. The Leonardo express train was quick and easy. Although I did think it was a bit pricey at €14pp.
We walked from the train station to the Ruby Giulia hotel in Monti and they accommodated an early check in. I HIGHLY recommend this hotel! We loved our stay there. Rooms were clean & comfortable, air conditioning worked great, nice spritz roof top bar, staff were friendly, and it was easy to access the metro and bus stops.
We grabbed lunch at Ce Stamo A Pensà. The fried pizza was good, especially the pesto. Arancini was dry and meh.
We had no plans that day so we wandered around the area and sweat a lot.
Went for dinner at Romanè (Michelin bib gourmand). Food was good but very rich. Really liked their tiramisu. After dinner we stopped by the Trevi fountain. It was busy but not unmanageable. Did not pay the €2 to go down to the fountain.
Day 2, Rome - we had this day open and agreed that it was too hot to actually enjoy exploring the city. We picked up pastries from Riccardo Taliani (we went here all 3 days in Rome) and caught a regional train to Santa Severa. It was a short, easy walk to the beach from the train station. We rented 2 chairs and an umbrella from a beach club for €36. The water was perfect temperature and crystal clear. The beach in general was very quiet and we were the only English speakers we noticed. Bought some fruit to snack on from some nearby vendors and it was the best peach we’ve ever eaten!
After the beach we walked around the small town for a bit, got a slice of pizza, and headed back to the train.
Enjoyed a pre-dinner spritz at the hotel’s rooftop bar and then went for dinner at Quel Che c’è Laboratorio Di Cucina. The food was simple and tasty but nothing super exciting. After finishing our bottle of wine from dinner on the hotel rooftop we walked down to the Spanish steps.
Day 3, Rome - We had pre booked a 7:30am Vatican tour with Liv Tours. 10/10 would book the early tour again. You actually get to enjoy everything without being jammed next to too many people and the temperature was manageable. Got gelato at Old Bridge.
After the Vatican we headed over to Travestere got suppli and pizza from L’Elementare. It was excellent, especially the suppli! Got gelato from Un Gelato A Roma. Best gelato we had in Rome.
Had dinner at a restaurant in Testaccio whose name I cannot remember. It was full of locals. Food was fine. After dinner we strolled through the night market along the lower part of the river.
Day 4, Rome/Bologna - We went back to the Trevi at 7am. There were still people around but it was easy to go down to the fountain to throw a coin and take a picture without the fee or the crowds.
Went to meet up for our 9am colosseum tour. This turned into a mess. Our tour group got stopped at the entrance and colosseum staff locked the group’s tickets. Something about the tour company purchasing the tickets on multiple credit cards. Waited about 1.5 hours and finally the colosseum decided that our tour could continue but we had to purchase new tickets individually. The tour company assured us we would be refunded (need to follow up with them on this). Finally entered the colosseum at 10:45am. At this point it was very crowded and hot. We could only stay for the first hour of the tour and then had to leave for our train to Bologna.
Got sandwiches from Mizio’s. Huge and delicious!
The train (Italo) to Bologna was delayed but otherwise uneventful. Arriving in Bologna our Airbnb was a lot further from the station than we thought. Tried to get a taxi using the Freenow app but there were none available. Eventually decided to bus. Bus was hot and crowded. There was no credit card tap onboard so we ended up not paying.
We had dinner at Al Cambio. It was a nice meal but didn’t wow us. Felt expensive for what we received. It also required a bus ride to get to. The caramelized onion tart was nice.
Got gelato at Il Gelato Di Carducci. Went there 3 times in total during our time in Bologna! Super delicious and only €2.80 for a generous small.
Day 5, Bologna - Our plan was to relax and eat - so that’s what we did! Slept in and started with lunch at Sfoglia Rina. Loved the vibe and the food! It also felt like good value with the included water, bread, and small side! The line to get a seat went quickly.
Went to Fabbri store - had no idea this company was Bologna based. Staff were very nice and did a tasting of all the products. Bought some cherries and other products to bring home.
Went to Aurum and had pistachio sours (based on a recommendation from Reddit), a negroni, and a Hugo spritz. All excellent!
Got gelato at Vero Gelateria. Good but felt touristy.
Dinner was at Antica Osteria Le Mura - amazing! Best overall meal and experience of the trip. Food was excellent, wine was great, and the staff were wonderful. We ordered more than we did at Al Cambio and it was cheaper. 10/10 recommend this restaurant.
Day 6, Bologna - We learned a lot of things actually close on Sundays in Bologna. Tried one bakery that Google said was open but it was closed up. Ending up getting pastries at a random bakery after walking a bit and they were awesome! Pistachio croissant had the most filling of any i tried.
Walked the porticoes up to the Madonna San Luca. It was sweaty but fun to walk up. The basilica is pretty and had nice views of Bologna and surrounding hillsides. The walk down was much easier and we opted to walk all the way back to our airbnb.
Shared a sandwich from Mo Mortadella Lab and a ragu from Pasta Fresca Naldi. Both delicious. Had a spritz at the bar across from the Fresca Naldi while we ate.
Got gelato at Cavour. Excellent! Perfect texture.
Dinner at Berbere. Wanted to try two pizza places so we shared a pizza. Very good.
Decided we were too full to eat a second pizza. Instead we got a small tirzelle to try and then gelato.
Day 7, Bologna - We booked the Italian days factory tour based on Reddit recommendations and it was the highlight of the week! Very well done, informative, interesting, and a ton of fun. Serena and Roberta were excellent hosts.
Tipsy and full, we rested for a while after the tour and then got takeout pizza from SPAN. Super good - best pizza we’ve had in a while!
Finished the day with 1 last gelato.
Day 8, Bologna - Airbnb host arranged for an early 4:30am taxi for us. Taxi was pretty pricey - €35 for a 10km drive. Bologna airport had plenty of food and shopping options available early morning. Had a smooth flight to Prague for the next portion of our trip!
A few random notes:
- Rome transport was easy to use and navigate. We always purchased tickets on the app so we didn’t have to worry about validation.
- Bologna transport service wasn’t as smooth as Rome. It was fine but we preferred to walk.
- We avoided tourist trap gelato by seeking places that use the round metal containers with lids.
- Rome was oppressively hot. Bologna was hot too but was much more manageable because there was always shade and no crowds.