These fiberglass campers seem to last forever.

Apologies if this is not the correct forum, but we have a 39' 2014 Coachmen Catalina trailer where the screen door fell off. Sourcing a replacement seems to be something of a "Mission Impossible", so we're looking for a replacement magnetic screen door.

I am wondering if anyone else has gone through something similar and could recommend a replacement magnetic screen door?

Total newbie here. I recently purchased a 16 foot Scamp and towed it back to Illinois from Minnesota. Upon return noticed the 2 inch ball was very scratched on one side and along the top.

Went to hit it yesterday for a short trip and couldn't get the coupler luck to engaged. Everything else seemed like it was lined up correctly. I had the full weight of the trailer on the bar and everything seemed to be positioned correctly.

Any advice?

We have a small 2010 Fleetwood quest with occasional use including boondocking a few days. We have 400w solar with vitron app batteries controller. House has a converter we don’t need an inverter. We are not maintenance people and hire out everything and live in a rural area. We hate the wet batteries. I have a knowledgeable handy man to help me next week. Batteries under a step in limited space. We currently have two 6v interstate golf cart batteries from Costco in series. I was thinking about changing to AGM but not stocked locally except 12v car ones. And now everyone says switch to LiFePO4 and you don’t have to change the house converter. It’s so confusing I am having trouble figuring it out. So many sizes. Also I’m in NorCal with hot dry summers up to triple digits and RV dies now have AC access where it is parked.

Just purchased my rv brand new it sat on the lot for 6+ months is my guess. My question is does this need to be replaced? Other areas on the roof also have bubbling maybe 4inches in diameter.

Camping with new truck and trailer - Let the games begin

How does it look?

Go easy on me 🫠 from south San Antonio, TX to Evansville, ID

First off, apologies because I'm sure this kind of thing gets asked a lot.

I've never owned a travel trailer before and I'm trying to get a sense for how much trailer I can get safely with the truck I've got.

I've got a 2023 F150, 3.5 Ecoboost with 3.55s. Short bed, crew cab. Tow package, NOT "Max tow package".

My payload is 1600lbs. Me, the wife, and the dog are probably a little under 400lbs. I'm sure we'd put something in the bed, maybe chairs and a wagon or stroller (kid on the way) or something so I don't know. Call it 150lbs to be safe.

That leaves me with 1050lbs and I've read enough to understand that I should not use all of that.

I'm not terribly worried about trailer weight based on what I've looked at, hitch weight looks like it's going to get in the way thousands of pounds before I get anywhere close to max trailer weight.

Would probably be mostly Midwest campgrounds within 4-6 hours of home, no mountains for a few years I think.

I've been looking at trailers online with 600 - 700lbs dry hitch weight. Typing all this out that seems kind of close to the sun especially once you add a WDH and actually put some stuff in it.

So what do you guys think? Should I be looking way under 600lbs or do I just need more truck?

And it went swimmingly, still working on a routine for setup but that will come with time. Its so much more comfortable then the slide in camper I had when I was a single man. And the best part to me. I was able to just hop in the pick up and do things like drive down the road to the fishing hole

2026 Subaru Forester Wilderness towing capacity 3500lbs. 2021 Aliner classic 1600 lbs before gear and equipment. Dry hitch weight 160 lbs. Went from NC - MI and back over 2000k miles. First Voyage with this setup. I purchased a Curt Echo mobile break controller and it worked great. It’s the best option based on my research to use a break controller with a Subaru.

I’ve got a good deal on a 2013 Dutchmen Komfort T2100RB that is what I believe in really good condition. No damp or funny smells, no visible water damage, no discolorations or stains and everything seems to work and feels like well taken care of. However, upon closer inspection I’ve noticed some fiberglass delimitation here and there, which from my understanding is normal given the year and not necessarily a sign of water damage but what triggered me to ask for help is that today being very hot outside I ran the AC all day and I’ve noticed some water drips from under the wallpaper above the bed area. I went on top of the RV and there exhaust water from AC unit was looking normal, flowing to the side of the RVs and not towards where the drip was coming from. From my research looks like the AC unit might have a worn out seal but I have opened it to check out. Any help would be appreciated! Can’t find much about this specific model.

Hey everyone, full timer here running into my first electrical issue and wanted to see if anyone has dealt with simular or has any advice. I’m in a valor 40V13 5er that has two GFCI circuits. woke up one morning to our fireplace being off and all appliances on our GFCI circuit out for both slide outs (fireplace was plugged into this GFCI circuit).

I made sure circuit breakers were good and both GFCIs were reset at the outlet and did not fix problem.

Broke out the ohm/voltage meter and found that the first outlet in GFCI works normally as well as the second, however the third shows an open neutral with 120v in ground-neutral and 0 volts in hot-neutral. This outlet was the one that had the fireplace plugged into it

Every other outlet on the GFCI breaker shows the same open neutral problem on the meter. I was wondering if this could be caused by a single outlet having an issue and that one just needs to be replaced on the daisy chain, or if this is something more systemic that needs an electrician. I am going to replace that outlet soon but need to go to work (womp) so just have that circuit breaker turned off for now. Thank you

Man, prefacing this with: I'm fairly trades-savvy but this has me questioning lol.

The first time we drained a battery to 0, was over the winter. It was unplugged but it could have gone to freezing temps, hard to say but regardless... replaced it.

Now this year, I notice a couple dead birds near our garden and around the same time, had a distinctly rotten eggs smell around the trailer and front of house. I assumed we had a sewage problem but it was way worse at the front of the trailer. Then it clicked that it was probably the sulfuric acid battery ... ran a multimeter on it and sure enough, 17.2v?!

Checked the ecoworthy solar controller and it was sitting at E02: over voltage, any time the sun was out. Reading 19v-20v. This thing worked well when we bought it used, so I'm thinking something in the controller fried since we bought it?

We took it out one more time with seemingly no issues, battery appeared to hold a charge... But today, it's reading 9.5v. Two month old battery.

Did the solar controller overcharge the battery and burn out a cell? if so, this likely killed the first battery too. I'm not confident in this explanation but at a loss otherwise. I'd like to buy a new battery and MPPT controller but admittedly nervous I'll just fry something else.

I’m having a really hard time narrowing down what size travel trailer for going down mountain roads in the Sierras, Cascades, and similar mountains. I’m a tent camper at heart but with a wife and couple kids they need the finer things in life now - so we’re set on getting a camper.

My problem is I like to boondock down windy mountain roads which are dirt or have potholes/rocks. I want something big enough to sleep 4 people and small enough where it won’t limit where we go too much. I’m leaning towards a 21 foot flagstaff bunkhouse but I fear that may too big for the places I want to go.

For those of you that boondock in the mountains, what size trailer do you recommend?

Wife just asked me to plan a trip to California for May 2027. We are leaving from Southern Colorado and would like to be gone about 3 weeks max.

I'm seeking recommendations for state parks, preferably on or near the coast, from about Santa Barbara North to the Giant Redwoods.

We have a small travel trailer (19' class) and two small to medium sized dogs. While we can camp without hookups, we prefer to at least have electric hookups, particularly when the weather is hot.

Speaking of Weather, I'd always been under the impression that Coastal California is generally pretty cool, especially from San Francisco northward. Is that accurate?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I am looking to purchase an RV. I have a loan approval from Alliant and was thinking of doing business with Camping World in Katy, TX until I spoke with a rep and didn't like the interaction. Are there any dealers in the area you would recommend? I am in East Houston.

Also any tips when dealing with a dealer?

Moving on from tent camping. I’ve done enough research in this area to think I’m making a correct decision and mess something up so I need some real advice.

The 4,000lb towing capacity probably isn’t going to limit me much, lots of options way under that, but where I’m struggling is with the 400lb tongue weight. I don’t want to push it and I really don’t wanna be in a spot where I feel like I have to shift stuff to the back and induce swaying conditions.

Overall we travel pretty light. Used to tent camping so bare essentials and most of it will fit in the truck bed.

We need a queen bed and 2 bunks ideally. Wife reallly wants a dinette and toilet so trying to find options that can include that. Also to note, I plan on traveling dry.

I’m looking at the Rockwood Geo Pro G17BLE. Seems to check all the boxes but I don’t know how much to factor in my tongue weight once I throw in a battery and propane etc.

Money isn’t exactly no object, but most of what I’m seeing doesn’t appear to be a prohibitive cost. Ideally under $20k but if there was something a bit above that I could finance some of it.

Thanks in advance!

This is my first trailer. Does the nose look a little high? Should I move the ball one notch down?

F-150 3.5 turbo v6
3000lb trailer with 600lb WDH

I need to fix a soft spot in the floor. We've already addressed the cause. So my plan is to rip out the vinyl flooring and replace the wood that is damaged. I'm not sure how to go about putting the new vinyl floor down.

The manufacturer laid the flooring then built everything on top of it. The interior walls, dinette, kitchen, bed, shower, etc. I do not want to gut the entire trailer and then put it all back together for this minor problem. How do I deal with the edges around the walls? Just cut to fit and slap on some vinyl baseboards?

I’ve been having problems with the pullout system on my camper. I’ve decided it’d be fun to remove the box entirely and replace it with a tip out bed, basically turning it into a bit of a diy hybrid I guess lol. I’m just having trouble sourcing a full tip out unit I could slap on there. You can’t outright buy it brand new, and I don’t want to salvage from a delapitated trailer either. Buying a newer camper just to grab the bit I want doesn’t really make sense financially.

I have a 29ft bumper-pull camper (dry weight about 8000 lbs) that I need to get from Englewood CO to Hotchkiss CO. Any recommendations?

First truck & trailer experience, I wanted to make sure I did it right as I'm putting a lot of miles on it.

4k lbs unloaded and 22' bumper to hitch trailer. I can't feel a thing when semis pass and been over some of the highest passes in the country with no issue. The truck pulls the trailer up hills like it's not even there. Average 13mpg.

So, respect to the tow police, there's length & weight boundaries for a reason - too many rigs out there endangering others on the road.

All that being said, next time I'll buy a f250.

Just picked up our first trailer and looking forward to learning and going on some adventures!