Thought it was time I finally photographed!
All games are CIB - with all inserts and pamphlets etc.
Some of these games are from my childhood, but the majority of the collecting began in 2023.

Still have 5/6 on my list left to get 😁.

So yeah, as the title says, I found this GBA SP on Vinted and just HAD to buy it. I really love the color! I believe it's quite uncommon, never seen one on any marketplace before. I've only seen those Japanese 001 models.

Sadly, it's got some scratches (& a deep one on the screen) and the corners of the screen are beginning to turn white, though it's barely noticeable as it is now.

This is my CGS half-transflective mod. I removed the r10 resistor and made a solder bridge for the increased brightness and I'm honestly really happy with how authentic it looks with the backlight off. It does have a glass screen protector on it now, so if you notice anything weird, that's what's causing it.

Just in case anyone is curious about how the CloudGamingStore screen looks when the R10 resistor has been bridged. Shorting the resistor supposedly makes the screen 3 steps brighter than stock, according to CGS. I would say it's brighter for sure, though could also say the added brightness washes out the colours even more.

Also a very unfair comparison vs a proper IPS at full blast.

Do note that the woodgrain non-R10 shorted is a WIP specimen, with the protective film still on, not that I would imagine it much affects the screen brightness. Also the 2nd picture is an outdoor light pic, heavily overexposed to make the screens visible, as cameras just seem to capture these displays really poorly, it's much clearer with the naked eye. It's also bright overcast here right now, so haven't been able to test in direct sun.

I know for sure that the FP IPS just doesn't work at all in bright direct sunlight.

Also very globby soldering work on the resistor, but, if it works?

I have no idea how good battery life the CGS screen has vs an IPS at full blast, though the Funnyplaying IPS seems similar brightness at setting 3 or 4, out of max 7. Generally the backlight is one of the most power consumings part of a gameboy, so I would at least expect the CGS to have at zero backlight/low backlight at least close to 15hours if not more. I can get around 10 hours with the FP IPS modded GBC.

The FP IPS does have much more saturated colours, but it's a matter of opinion if its actually oversaturated compared to OG screen.

I've had this gbc for a while and just noticed these. Thanks to anyone who responded!

If you can pick them up they are yours. Not really sure what else to do with them. I got 36 of them I don’t need. Seller sent me these by mistake but after talking to customer service Temu refunded me, gave me coupons and let me keep these.

So I finally took my Gameboy apart to give it a good deep clean(it was in a hoarder house for years). And I was looking at it and I was wondering if there was away to give it a facelift. I have plans to replace the screen, speaker, and maybe the battery port for a rechargeable one. But I was hoping someone out there knew ways to dye the plastic buttons and switches on the Gameboy. And if anyone knows a method to get new stickers on the back. Any help in the right direction would be appreciated

Not sure how much the games would sell or if the gameboy's even repairable lmao (but it's cool that it's found again from parents one day as they kept it to prevent my addiction back then) (also, hamtaro: ham-ham heartbreak ost 36: hamour was my pokemon littleroot town theme b4 pokemon it's wild to think :0)

I dont think its an issue with the game cartridge battery. Ive had this happen multiple times with multiple games and I can play and same the games with no issue on my gameboy advance. I got a gameboy color not too long ago and for the first like 2 months it worked perfectly fine but one day out of nowhere it just shuts off while I was playing. I turned it back on and the save data was gone. I looked it up saw the battery issue and thought that was it so I switched to a different game and maybe an hour later the same thing happened. I gave it a couple days and tried a couple more times and same exact issue. Any ideas what it could be?

I believe I've heard that this is a common issue. I'm using one of those yellow and blue Pokemon shells and a RIPS v. 5 IPS screen. The start + select button membrane technically works, but it's much shallower than a stock Game Boy. It doesn't feel quite right.

The buttons are pressed against the shell as far as they go, and they're still a little shallow, and they seem to be the same length of the standard light-gray buttons. I've heard this is a common problem with RIPS and other IPS screens, though.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this issue? When I've had the issue with A and B buttons, I cut out and added a second membrane underneath, which worked. (I believe that was a GBC.) I'm not sure if I could cut out some of the start + select membrane from another and stack it on top, like putting a cup inside another cup. Or if anyone ever has made any tall start + select buttons.

Any help would be really appreciated.

I'll drop a video soon. Power switch destroyed, lcd board damaged, no picture, cold joints, grease all over. Resoldered most joints, did a full recap, repaired the volume pot and replaced the contrast pot.

Anybody familiar with these cases? I’ve had them since 1990 if I had to guess. Couldn’t find any on eBay.

hi everyone,

I just got a modded game boy advance (v5 IPS screen and 1 amp speaker mod), and wanted to check if what I’m experiencing is normal before I send it back to the shop.

I’m getting a very loud buzzing as soon as it starts up, even if the volume is on the lowest setting. It only stops buzzing when it’s completely muted. Also, if the power switch is even touched accidentally while the volume is on, there’s a scratching/static interference which is really prominent as the switch is moved to the off position. I’ve had a look at the internals (see through case!) and the only thing I could see that could be an issue is a capacitor looks a bit strange with a white scuff mark on the side of the rim/top and some kind of glue/gel at the bottom.

I’ve included a video of the issue, it seems I can only choose between uploading a video or photo, it won’t let me upload both. The scratching sound at the end is when the power button is touched/moved slightly.

The shop has reached out and said they are happy to cover postage for me to send it back, but when I googled it, it seems that static sounds on GBA speakers are pretty common, so I wouldn’t want to send it back and waste the shop’s time! if someone more experienced could tell me whether it’s a real issue or just something I need to live with, that would be really helpful!

Edit: here’s a link to a photo of the capacitor: https://imgur.com/a/PyBmyfR

Hey guys!

I remember seeing some patches released for roms with password save systems that made saving/loading using a button combo possible instead. I was wondering if any of you know if there's a tool for patching roms that way and could it patch any rom if there is?

Thank you in (gb)advance! :>

does anyone know how to write games on this cartridge?
i tried this site recommended on the chisflash page, and GBX but it won’t recognize my chisflash burned.
NEED HELP!
i all is to play pokemon silver with RTC

So last time i posted i had a cpu bridge. As far as i could tell i removed it. Now gameboy and gameboy color games work. As for gba only metroid zero mission works. Metroid fusion starts but it looks garbled sometimes. The rest of my games including everdrive show only white. Any ideas?

My sp is a genuine 101, of which I changed the shell a year ago with another oem shell.
I never had this issue before.

When it's opened in the usual way (its locking position, slightly tilted), it's fine. But when I open it further to the point where it's flat the screen turns black. It doesn't have any dead pixels or discoloring

Is this a recurring issue with aging 101s ?