I’m looking at possibly grabbing a 97 Tahoe that’s got a 4” lift with from rough country. I know they’ve got a hit or miss reputation largely being a miss in a lot of their other lifts and wanna see if anyone has much experience with it?

Have you had/seen early failures from it? Is it an awesome lift that makes every worry go away like a leaf on the breeze?

99 yukon 2wd. 5.7/4l60. 0411 ecu swap. mpfi. stock everything else.

front brakes are locking up easily, very pronounced with a load on the hitch.

(!) (P) BRAKE light on dash on. ABS light not on. no stored ABS codes when read with tech2.

assume parking brake switch works because it turns off the DRL dash light when pbrake is pushed in.

with the abs fuse in they alternate, with the abs fuse out they both lock at the same time.

tech2 shows all 3 wheel speed sensors to be the same speed when rolling down the road.

I just swapped back to a new OBS master cylinder from the NBS MC I had installed a couple years ago, just in case that was the issue. no change.

replaced the front lines and calipers at the same time as I installed the NBS MC.

the brakes worked good for a long time after doing the NBS swap.

replaced the rear cylinders, drums and shoes recently after I noticed the issue. had one blown cyl and the shoes were worn out.

I have done ABS bleed with tech2 multiple times

if I unplug the wire to the ABS module, the dash brake light turns off. symptoms remain.

I will be putting the truck in the air to flush the fluid some more and check to see if either of the rear cyls are leaking. not sure what else to do.

It’s an old game warden truck. I had one just like it in high school and totaled it so I snagged this one off marketplace. The original one didn’t have the light so I took it off. If you don’t think it looks good that’s fine I just like talking about gmt400s

I have a mid 80’s block running with a tbi system it’s cammed and the fuel pump can’t keep up and it bogs when throttle is applied. Has anyone had this problem and what pump did you replace it with

Drove all day fine no overheating, get home and saw temps starting to reach 220 came out and saw this. Any suggestions?

I found a fuel leak at the fuel inlet schrader valve. My question is, do I a schrader valve replacement with an o ring that’s specific for being used on a fuel line or will any old Schrader valve work?

necesito su ayuda si a alguien le a pasado algo parecido, simplemente se apaga cada 15-20 minutos encendida, no hace algun golpe o ruido solamente se bajan las rpm y vuelve a encender perfectamente despues de dar marcha, todos los niveles estan bien, bateria,marcha y alternador nuevos…

Also it’s a 4l60e I forgot to say that

I have to put it in first manually and then put it in drive but after that it stays in second and won’t keep shifting. I had taken it to a service center to get some leaks and idle issues fixed, and cooling issues (she’s a fixer), and the mechanic said he doesn’t do transmission work.

Anyway, what could it be? I do not have the funds for a rebuild right now. Someone told me something about it maybe being a shift valve, he had the exact same issue.

Howdy, I’m looking at a lot of cool suburbans and tahoes that are cheap and have great bones but high mileage, so I know I’d inevitably need a new motor.

As I’m planning ahead on my family’s road trip vehicle, I’d like to put a motor in that’s a bit more peppy. I want something with a bit more power, maybe 75-150 more but still just a direct swap.

Are there any decent crate motors that would fit the bill? I know jegs makes a solid, direct OEM fit but I’d really like something that makes it easier to keep up with traffic and get down the highway

Truck is a '93, TBI 5.7

Following up on an earlier post I'd inspected the three wire plug and found the Insulation on all wires as they exited the plug to be gone, exposing the copper wire itself.

Truck has been ideling high around 1700 RPMs for awhile now with no obvious vacuum leaks discovered.

This morning it started throwing the recent tantrums; stumbling, surging, black puffs of unburnt gas from the tail pipe.

I'd wrapped up the exposed wires, even unhooked the Battery for about 15 mins.

Reconnected battery, Ign ON, I Pressed the Gas Pedal down three times in a row, then Ign OFF.

Did this a number of times, even threw in a 'turn it off w/ the pedal matted all the way down'.

Didn't help, truck still stumbling, shifting too high and too hard, black puffs out the tail pipe .

Finally I unplugged the TPS loom from the Sensor and low and behold the truck is drivable now.

Idle fell to a more respectable 14k, no stumble, no surging.

I haven't located my AWOL volt ohm meter yet to check resistance and voltages.

I have a 1990 k1500 with the 350 SBC. I bought it for two grand running and driving. Then the headlight came off. Ok that’s fine. New headlight, easy. Then power steering pump went out.. great. Then the serpentine belt flew because the power steering pump was somehow cockeyed. The power steering lines are rusted in/rounded out and I’m getting very discouraged on working on it. I really don’t want to scrap it and I want yalls opinion. It’s my first ever vehicle and I know I bought a two grand truck with two grand problems. I have the parts to fix it but I can’t get the damn thing apart and I’m trying anything and everything I can think of.

Finally got it! Turns out its a 350!! But shes tired, I'm considering an LS swap using mostly OEM GM parts (Wiring and ECU really) Whats some advice yall got?

After battling a horrible steering wheel play for months, I finally took the truck in for an alignment. They had to straighten the frame but hopefully it'll be better now

Recently like the last 4-5 times I’ve driven my truck when I turn it off the AC stays on. I then turn it off. And sometimes when I go to drive my truck again the voltage is low and I need to jump it off. Haven’t had this problem till now. Never had a starting problem either except sometimes gotta push the key in the ignition a little bit every now and then to start.

I’m looking for headlights and taillights for my 93 K1500 that keep the classic look and not the modern LED strip look. Any recommendations?

2000 C3500 5.7 auto cab and chassis about 150k. Zero driveline vibration before changing 3 ujoints on a 3 piece shaft. after changing, have a noticable but not violent vibration at 40-50 mph the speed the truck basically lives at. All joints moving freely when installed.

mv brother thinks it is from the slip joint ⁶not being put together right. I feel like it can only be put on one way via a double spline, which i could easily see in the grease and put it together that way.

The transmission bushing that supports the driveline has almost zero endplay. one of the sympto⅞ms of this is one of the top results for the vibration.

we marked the side of the large driveshaft that went to the axle but didn't mark the orientation of the stub shaft that goes on that shaft. would have to remove the joint, though

the carrier bearing is in good shape but the bushing around it is definitely taking a beating from the vibration.

Thanks for any help you can offer

I have a 1996 Chevy 3500 dually with a 7.4L 454. One of the injectors is leaking, so I figured I might as well replace the whole set while I’m in there.
The mileage is unknown, and the truck is completely stock.
I’d appreciate any recommendations. I’ve narrowed it down to two options, but I’d definitely like to hear your opinions and experiences.
The two sets I’m considering are:
Precision Auto Injectors Bosch 4-Hole Upgrade Fuel Injectors
Five o Motorsports Injectors (P/N: GM505454) for the GM 7.4L 454
Which would you go with, or is there another injector set you’d recommend?

Does anyone know to where to find or have any good recommendations for a toolbox for the stepside bed version of gmt400’s?

I have a 1995 k2500 with the TBI 5.7l. I broke the smaller bracket on the left when removing it. I went to a junkyard and pulled the larger bracket on the right side and only noticed it was different after getting home. The junkyard truck was also a gmt400 tbi 5.7l but I’m not sure if its year. Can I use this larger OEM bracket on my 1995 truck? Thanks.