necesito su ayuda si a alguien le a pasado algo parecido, simplemente se apaga cada 15-20 minutos encendida, no hace algun golpe o ruido solamente se bajan las rpm y vuelve a encender perfectamente despues de dar marcha, todos los niveles estan bien, bateria,marcha y alternador nuevos…

Finally got it! Turns out its a 350!! But shes tired, I'm considering an LS swap using mostly OEM GM parts (Wiring and ECU really) Whats some advice yall got?

I found a fuel leak at the fuel inlet schrader valve. My question is, do I a schrader valve replacement with an o ring that’s specific for being used on a fuel line or will any old Schrader valve work?

Howdy, I’m looking at a lot of cool suburbans and tahoes that are cheap and have great bones but high mileage, so I know I’d inevitably need a new motor.

As I’m planning ahead on my family’s road trip vehicle, I’d like to put a motor in that’s a bit more peppy. I want something with a bit more power, maybe 75-150 more but still just a direct swap.

Are there any decent crate motors that would fit the bill? I know jegs makes a solid, direct OEM fit but I’d really like something that makes it easier to keep up with traffic and get down the highway

Also it’s a 4l60e I forgot to say that

I have to put it in first manually and then put it in drive but after that it stays in second and won’t keep shifting. I had taken it to a service center to get some leaks and idle issues fixed, and cooling issues (she’s a fixer), and the mechanic said he doesn’t do transmission work.

Anyway, what could it be? I do not have the funds for a rebuild right now. Someone told me something about it maybe being a shift valve, he had the exact same issue.

I’m looking for headlights and taillights for my 93 K1500 that keep the classic look and not the modern LED strip look. Any recommendations?

I have a 1990 k1500 with the 350 SBC. I bought it for two grand running and driving. Then the headlight came off. Ok that’s fine. New headlight, easy. Then power steering pump went out.. great. Then the serpentine belt flew because the power steering pump was somehow cockeyed. The power steering lines are rusted in/rounded out and I’m getting very discouraged on working on it. I really don’t want to scrap it and I want yalls opinion. It’s my first ever vehicle and I know I bought a two grand truck with two grand problems. I have the parts to fix it but I can’t get the damn thing apart and I’m trying anything and everything I can think of.

Neighbor moved and gifted me this truck. I'm not much of a truck guy but free is free. Got it running after fixing ground issue to battery, new distributor, and added oil to the transmission. Runs and drives nice but will need some new parts like a radiator and water pump from what I can see

Truck is a '93, TBI 5.7

Following up on an earlier post I'd inspected the three wire plug and found the Insulation on all wires as they exited the plug to be gone, exposing the copper wire itself.

Truck has been ideling high around 1700 RPMs for awhile now with no obvious vacuum leaks discovered.

This morning it started throwing the recent tantrums; stumbling, surging, black puffs of unburnt gas from the tail pipe.

I'd wrapped up the exposed wires, even unhooked the Battery for about 15 mins.

Reconnected battery, Ign ON, I Pressed the Gas Pedal down three times in a row, then Ign OFF.

Did this a number of times, even threw in a 'turn it off w/ the pedal matted all the way down'.

Didn't help, truck still stumbling, shifting too high and too hard, black puffs out the tail pipe .

Finally I unplugged the TPS loom from the Sensor and low and behold the truck is drivable now.

Idle fell to a more respectable 14k, no stumble, no surging.

I haven't located my AWOL volt ohm meter yet to check resistance and voltages.

After battling a horrible steering wheel play for months, I finally took the truck in for an alignment. They had to straighten the frame but hopefully it'll be better now

Recently like the last 4-5 times I’ve driven my truck when I turn it off the AC stays on. I then turn it off. And sometimes when I go to drive my truck again the voltage is low and I need to jump it off. Haven’t had this problem till now. Never had a starting problem either except sometimes gotta push the key in the ignition a little bit every now and then to start.

This is my 1994 k1500 Silverado SLT Geneva Luxury Conversions. I was gifted this rare Chevy truck by my girlfriend who special ordered it in 1994 from Galles Chevrolet in Albuquerque, New Mexico. I have looked and looked for another one like it everywhere. There is one here in Albuquerque but its an extended cab two wheel drive version. The factory door tag lists it as an SLT and has the custom badges to back that up. has anyone ever seen another 4x4 short bed, teal, Geneva SLT? The conversion includes grey leather bucket seats and custom real wood dash and door inserts laser engraved with the SLT and Geneva lettering. She ordered Etched door glass windows etched rear glass slider and etched front bug guard. Also has a fold down wood middle seat/drink holder console. The stripe package is called Brushstrokes SL-582 and Manhattan Mist SL-410 with SL-582 Shredder Kit.

I been driving it since 2007 and has 249,000 miles on the original engine. It's due for it's last New Mexico emissions test. I can't wait for the truck to be 35 years old so it is exempt from further testing. Then I can install the old school fresh aluminum headed, cammed, modern fuel injected 350 I have had since 1982. I bought that out of a 1968 RS/SS with DZ302 fuelie heads intake and factory 780 Holley. The bottom end is 350ci with 6" rods and 121/2 to one pistons, balanced forged crank and crower .500 in. lift solid cam.

Let me know if you have seen another one like it. I'd really like to find out just how rare it is. So far it is 1 of 1. That's as rare as it gets.

I'm in California and I tried to run a quote with Hagerty for my 95 OBS Single Cab Stepside. The reason I wanted to go with them was for the agreed upon value and classic insurance. The agent said Hagerty wont insure new policies for GMT400 for the time being. I asked the reason and he said that there were too many claims being made for these trucks. Has anyone been through this recently? Is there any other alternatives out there for agreed upon value? Thanks in advance!

I have a 1996 Chevy 3500 dually with a 7.4L 454. One of the injectors is leaking, so I figured I might as well replace the whole set while I’m in there.
The mileage is unknown, and the truck is completely stock.
I’d appreciate any recommendations. I’ve narrowed it down to two options, but I’d definitely like to hear your opinions and experiences.
The two sets I’m considering are:
Precision Auto Injectors Bosch 4-Hole Upgrade Fuel Injectors
Five o Motorsports Injectors (P/N: GM505454) for the GM 7.4L 454
Which would you go with, or is there another injector set you’d recommend?

2000 C3500 5.7 auto cab and chassis about 150k. Zero driveline vibration before changing 3 ujoints on a 3 piece shaft. after changing, have a noticable but not violent vibration at 40-50 mph the speed the truck basically lives at. All joints moving freely when installed.

mv brother thinks it is from the slip joint ⁶not being put together right. I feel like it can only be put on one way via a double spline, which i could easily see in the grease and put it together that way.

The transmission bushing that supports the driveline has almost zero endplay. one of the sympto⅞ms of this is one of the top results for the vibration.

we marked the side of the large driveshaft that went to the axle but didn't mark the orientation of the stub shaft that goes on that shaft. would have to remove the joint, though

the carrier bearing is in good shape but the bushing around it is definitely taking a beating from the vibration.

Thanks for any help you can offer

I have a 1995 k2500 with the TBI 5.7l. I broke the smaller bracket on the left when removing it. I went to a junkyard and pulled the larger bracket on the right side and only noticed it was different after getting home. The junkyard truck was also a gmt400 tbi 5.7l but I’m not sure if its year. Can I use this larger OEM bracket on my 1995 truck? Thanks.

Does anyone know to where to find or have any good recommendations for a toolbox for the stepside bed version of gmt400’s?

My MIL asked me to fix her ac so I tinted the windows and threw some 20s on it. She will still be hot but so are those rims. I’m thinking a 2/4 to keep it drivable. Opinions on parts you’ve used?

I recently replaced my door hinge pins and have been trying to install the roller spring back into my door. The tool bottoms out as pictures and is not close enough to fit in place. All i asked for was help and everyone thought I was too stupid to operate this tool so here.