I was initially looking at a mk8, but I think with the options I’d want Performance Pack, B&O, LED headlights, heated seats etc. I think it’s going to be a bit outside of my budget of around £11.5k

I’ve always loved the mk7 but been put off by ecoboom and given this would be my daily for a 1hr commute to work and lower mpg. I’m interested to know if considering one again is a bit mental?

I’m new to this so go easy on me. Would be keen to hear thoughts on this.

Cheers

My first post on the subreddit! Bought this 2015 st a couple months ago. Came with bronze Koenig 16’s and Bilstein springs. I’ve since gotten a Cobb rmm and ITG induction kit. 15% tint on side windows and going back next week to smoke out the windshield.

Never done my own brakes or rotors before. It took me one chris fix video, eight hours, two trips to harbor freight, three burritos, six chicken strips, four beers and the most swearing I have ever done in a day. New vs old.

I installed the cobb intake over the weekend but confused where this bracket goes. Anyone have any insight?

yippee!

Hey guys. Today I was on my way home from work when i came to a stop sign and I’m not quite sure what exactly happened. At this stop sign i generally have to pull out pretty quickly as Im entering on to a major road. I’m pretty sure I was in neutral at the time and went into first to take off and the car had a pretty hard stall. After frantically turning it back on the wrench light appeared and low and behold I was in limp mode. Fortunately, I live pretty close to work so I drove it a couple minutes home. Turned the car off and turned it back on and the wrench light was gone and no more limp mode. Few hours later drove it around for about 10 mins and everything seemed okay. Should I be concerned?

So i got my fiesta st last Thursday. Bought it from a local dealership with only 86k km for 12k cad plus taxes. After 3 days the clutch decided it didnt want to disengage anymore and left me stranded on the side of the road. Pretty sure its either the slave or master cylinder from what I have read online. Not sure if the dealer is going to cover it or not they are currently looking my car over. How expensive will these repairs be should they not cover it.

Is this totaled, what do you guys think? For context, a box truck hit my car while parked yesterday.

Editing to add: when the truck struck my parked car, it pushed/dragged the ST a few feet.

My original coolant tank started leaking and I'm about to drain the system to swap a new radiator in.

I'm looking at either a new plastic Dorman tank, or a mishimoto aluminum one.

People who've replaced the coolant tank, what do you recommend? Is the mishimoto actually a permanent fix? Is the oem plastic better than the Dorman? I daily the car and want something reliable and easy to install.

I know the airtec is better but I don't have money like that lol.

2019 usdm mk7.5

Hello everyone I have a question does the blend thing that clicks affect the A/C blowing cold because after about 30 - 40 minutes of driving it will randomly start blowing hot air and also I haven't heard the clicking in a while. I had the A/C worked on and they replaced a valve that was leaking but it still isn't doing it sometimes. One time it did it I turned the temp all the way over to high and let it blow hot for about 30 seconds and it seemed to fix it for a few days but now it's doing it again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful thanks.

So I couple of weeks ago I slide into a curb. Bad. My front left took the impact and I’ve had to replace the control arm, strut, and tie rods. The shop said it aligned fine but my steering feel is a lot heavier than it used to be and the steering wheel isn’t returning to tdc on its own. The only thing I can think of is my steering rack got messed up too but wanted to get another opinion before dropping $500 and my subframe.

I'm a fairly new ST owner (~1 yr) and want to learn what other people have done to their cars!

My current mods:

New motor mounts

Evap harness

Upgraded intercooler

Cobb exhaust (catback)

DeltaStyling spoiler

Hey, new fiesta ST owner here, I've had some electrical issues with the car since I've bought it, like for example having the headunit turn on after the car is locked. It's a keyless 2014 fiestaST, and I disconnected the battery and closed the lid because the car was outside, however I realised the car was locked after I closed the bonnet. Physical emergency key seems to turn clockwise but does not let me open the door, as I assume the button on the handle is meant to unlock it. How can I get the blasted bonnet open or doors unlocked? Read online that I can maybe either pull the bonnet release cable from under the car or with a really specific hook through the bonnet gap, or jack up the car and connect power to the starter motor. Would any of these solutions work, or is there something else, or am I just using the key wrong? *I've tried everything with the physical key but I'm pretty sure the doors won't unlock unless there's power* Obviously last resort is a locksmith but I don't want to have to pay the premium. Not urgent.

Next stop 69420

Hi guys, had my fiesta a couple months now. Wanting some yellow DRL’s, anybody have any pictures? Cheers!

just got it back from the mechanic, and he said the cords and various tubes weren’t lining up to the diagrams and previous FiSTs he’d seen. he said there was a possibility of a stock engine swap.

I bought it along with new tires and I’ve used them since the summer started

They have a lot of life ahead of them

(Look at pictures)
Arnold Missouri 63010
650$ OBO

Hey guys, every now and then I find myself going down a rabbit hole with cooling stuff. I have researched a few things and figured I’d share what limited knowledge I have.

The attached forum thread is probably my favorite read I’ve found. My best paraphrase is that the most efficient style heat extractors are the MSport WRC / Fiesta R5 style vents. This is only the case if you have an undertray, as the air in the engine bay is really turbulent and will get stuck without an undertray to help pull it out from the back.

A common question I’ve seen is whether or not the hood hinges will clear the vents, as they come pretty close to the mounting position. I’ve found a few pictures that lead me to believe it’s possible, but it might be a better idea to use small hinges like they do on the R5. It won’t let me add pictures so I’ll see if I can post them in the comments.

If anyone has anything to add or has any questions let me know. I’ll try to answer anything as best I can.

Hit up Calder Park in Vic, Aus for the first time on Friday. Stepped away with a 1:12.67 which I was fairly happy with having never been out there before. First time running EBC RP-X pads in the BBK, which didn't miss a beat all day, along with the rest of the car. It's always all smiles in a Mk8!

As the title says, my 08 st150 won’t jump start. Cranks but won’t start.

First happened last Wednesday, passed my test (about time) came to start it, wouldn’t so I used a jump pack, started up straight away.

Drove fine Thursday and Friday. Took it to get washed Friday evening that was it for the night.

Went out to it Saturday to take it for a spin, it was dead. Tried using the pack again, nothing. Went out got some jump leads, hooked up to my brothers car, left it for a bit, cranked and it started.

Drove around for a bit (granted probably not as long as I should’ve) got home, turned her off, tried again and she started on her own, no jump leads or pack.

Come Sunday, was meant to be taking it down to Lincoln. Wouldn’t start, tried battery pack, no luck, so used jump leads again. This time, the radiator fan came straight on, and it cranks but doesn’t start.

Is it worth giving the battery a full charge then trying again? Or maybe testing for parasitic drain?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, really frustrated me lol. Had it since Feb, only just passed now she won’t play ball😅
(Picture for attention)

Update: charged battery, turned ignition, fuel pump isn’t priming. Ordered a new pump, I’m thinking that it’s shorted causing battery drain + not starting. I’ll fit it at the weekend and update again.

Hello all, my 2016 st180 st2 said on Sync that a tire pressure monitor sensor Is not detected with its warning light on the dashboard;

tire shop fitted a new one (allegedly it was the front left wheel) and then the warning came on again because apparently they didn't program it correctly (since fords have a weird learning mechanism)

after 1 month and some road done, the warning came on again and it's pissing me off.

tire shop said that they need to be replaced once every 10 years, and if one stops working, I Will have to replace all of them later; is it true?

should I just replace all of them or maybe it is another problem and the tpms aren't at fault? should i just disable it with forscan? idk what to do

thank you