Podium Pedals (3-pedal version)

I got a load cell pedal. Should I bolt that pedal to the seat before using it or its going to be ok? Maybe move the bolt of the clutch to the LC?

Everything is fastened, but the pedal is hard af. I want to use it and I can't go out today

Good morning everyone!
First time posting here, so here’s my story.
Yesterday I received my brand-new Fanatec ClubSport GT cockpit, and honestly… it’s been a huge disappointment so far.
The adjustability is pretty poor, the build quality in some areas leaves a lot to be desired, but the biggest issue by far is how incredibly difficult it is to assemble.
I just can’t get the holes to line up properly. I managed to put the main frame together, but when I tried installing the top crossbar that connects both sides, it felt like the lower part of the frame was way too wide. That suspicion was confirmed when I tried mounting the pedal plate: it’s off by around 15 mm, so the holes in the frame and the pedal plate simply don’t line up.

Same issue here. If I try to bolt on the crossbar that connects both sides of the frame, there’s absolutely no way I can get the holes to line up. They’re just way too far apart.

I’m starting to think the long lower tube that connects both sides was machined incorrectly. If I squeeze the sides together as hard as I can, it looks like the pedal plate might fit, but there’s no way it does when everything is bolted together properly.
On top of that, one of the adjustment knobs won’t thread in correctly. The problem isn’t the threaded insert in the frame—the threads on the knob itself seem to be damaged.

Has anyone else run into these kinds of issues, or am I just the unluckiest person on the planet?
Thanks!

If anyone is interested in color swapping their gt cockpit harness slot surrounds, https://simraceshoprf.etsy.com/listing/4542166588/fanatec-gt-cockpit-seat-harness-slot

I can manage a few sets per day and will add colors if requested.

Hi all, I downloaded Maurice's profile from this Google Drive folder and tried to set it up for Dallara P217, but I have violent wheel shake on straights and even while stationary.

I followed the README file, updated in game settings and updated app.ini file with the specified values.

Wheel drivers are up to date and Fanatec App is ver. 1.4.2.3.

https://reddit.com/link/1v3kyub/video/fbf310i64teh1/player

If anyone has an advice I would really appreciate it, im quite new to this.

PS. I know its not Dallara in the video, recorded this when I wanted to check if it happens on other cars.

Hello everyone!

After an unsuccessful experience with the Thrustmaster t598, I decided to buy the Fanatec GT DD Pro 5nm qr2.

I’m a PS5 player, so I don’t have much choice when it comes to compatibility.

I play Gran Turismo 7 mainly, so the DD Pro seems like the best option.

Are there any important things I need to know before buying?

Is it worth updating the base? I’ve heard there are some issues with the new software.

Can I just play without the software update?

Thanks you in advance!

Hello, does someone know Why the Option in setup between peak and linear went away

Hi everyone,

I have a question regarding the LED lights on my Fanatec Formula V2.5 wheel in Le Mans Ultimate.

My setup:

• Fanatec Formula V2.5 wheel
• CSL DD 8Nm wheelbase
• Latest Fanatec firmware installed through the Fanatec app

The issue is that the LEDs on the Formula V2.5 are not always synced with the in-game RPM lights. For example, when the game shows 5 LEDs lit up, my physical wheel might only show 1 or 2 LEDs. It feels like there is a delay or the wheel is receiving incorrect RPM information.

What’s strange is that I don’t have this issue with every car. For example, the Mercedes LMGT3 works perfectly, the LEDs match the in-game display and respond correctly.

I’ve already tried several things, including updating firmware and changing settings, but I haven’t been able to find the cause.

Has anyone else experienced this issue or found a solution?

Thanks in advance!

Just finished putting together what feels like one of the most comfortable steering wheels I’ve used to date.
It consists of the GT Zero rubber wheel rim with the rally button module and Podium shifter mounted to the Podium hub, I have 13 steering wheels in my collection and yes, my wife says I have a problem :). I have use the Simagic GT Neo on a Fanatec hub and it was great but this GT Zero has thicker handles which I have grown to love. I know a lot of people complain about the Fanatec eco system but I must say that it is getting more and more flexible as time goes and the support in my experience has been fantastic. So from a nobody in the sim racing world, I just wanted to give Fanatec a shoutout to say thank you for making my first 18 months of sim racing very enjoyable.

I used the 3d printable faceplate mod on makerworld to make this whole thing work.. I downloaded the STL, loaded it into fusion to extract the sketch of the face..

Converted that sketch into a svg file which I then loaded into powerpoint to design the wheel face.. I included labels for buttons cuz I didnt want to pay for them..

I dont know what happened, but even though the outline matches the wheel perfectly, the holes for the buttons printed out slightly offset, which I corrected by enlarging the holes.. Mightve been a print scaling issue as I printed it out at a local convenience store..

Laminated the paper, and stuck it on with non residual double sided tape..

Looks a bit better than the plain print that fanatec offered on the wheel..

Link to the 3d printable I found:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/976147-fanatec-mclaren-gt3-wheel-paddles-faceplate#profileId-949037

on lmu and iracing my ffb is cutting in and out. i cleaned connectors and re sat the stem and still doing it. i noticed in the app when a profile is selected the nm shows as 6nm but if i set it to auto and than back to the profile it changes back to 8nm than after a minuet or so it goes back to 6nm. is my boost kit done for or is there some bug with the new drivers?

Anyone managed to get some replacement buttons for the Rally Button Module. I want some plain replacements

i have a csl dd with a brand new qr2 and every now and then i’ll lose ffb and all button functions as if the wheel has come off/loose. it all comes back when i push the wheel forward again. not had this before and now all of a sudden started happening

EDIT: since posting this i’ve lost all button function entirely and leds have stopped working but ffb is fine 🤔

if it helps, the issue is movement backwards (towards me) between the qr2 wheel side and base side.

Edit: The issue was not actually the hub, but the wheelbase. It was a hardware issue where simply unplugging and replugging the drive shaft resolved it.

Was off the sim for a few days because work was absolutely slammed. Came back to play iRacing and now I’m stuck in an endless firmware loop. I have had the setup for a few years with no issues until now.

The loop is:

• Base turns on and connects to my PC normally
• The firmware updater automatically opens and puts the wheelbase into update mode
• It "updates" the device info, then closes
• The base goes back into PC mode and immediately starts the same loop again

I have tried manually updating the wheel through the firmware updater, but I can't actually flash the Hub because the firmware loop keeps forcing the base back into update mode before the Hub update can happen.

The Universal Hub never shows up properly in FanaLab, Fanatec Control Panel, or the Fanatec App.

Things I have tried:

• Uninstalling and reinstalling the Fanatec App multiple times
• Completely removing all Fanatec files before reinstalling
• Trying older drivers/FanaLab-era drivers
• Manually flashing firmware through the updater
• Manually trying individual firmware files
• Removing the Endurance Module and testing with just the Hub

Setup:

• CSL DD QR1
• ClubSport Universal Hub V2 QR1
• ClubSport Endurance Module

The Endurance Module seems fine (same issue happens with it disconnected). The issue seems to be with the Universal Hub firmware.

The weird part is the firmware updater does detect it as a ClubSport Universal Hub V2 and says the device information updates successfully, but I cannot get any firmware to actually flash. It just refuses and continues the update loop.

Starting to think the Hub firmware is corrupted, or the Hub itself has died.

Anyone have any ideas before I give up and look at replacing it with a Podium Hub? I’ve tried basically everything I’ve been able to find so far.

The pedals are connected correctly. When I turn on the wheel base, my PC detects only the wheel and the wheel base. The pedals are not detected at all.
Sometimes, when I enable “Combined Pedals”, the pedal input is stuck at 50% even though I’m not pressing anything.
The pedals are working properly. I have already tried disabling Secure Boot and replacing the USB cable, but the issue remains.
Please help.

I have this aftermarket steering wheel lying around as decoration, and I started wondering if I could actually use it on my Fanatec CSL DD. The problem is: I have no idea what adapters I need, and after spending way too much time researching, I’m even more confused than before.

If anyone has done this before, please tell me exactly what parts I need. Would save my sanity. Thanks.

So I tried updating the CSR Elite LC pedals via the USB plug by using the Fanatec Control Panel with Driver 474. The control panel firmware said it needed to be done manually. So I chose all the options available and selected to update and it did not do anything. After a while I gave up and closed the Firware update window and could see that the pedals were no longer registering as a connected device. Luckily they still work if I use the plug for the RJ12 cable to plug directly into the back of the wheel base. Is there a way to get them to be recognized via the USB cable again? I saw on one of the Sim Racing Garage video's a pedal set Think CSL Elites are suppose to give better braking resolution when using the USB cable connected directly to the PC vs using the RJ12 cable to the back side of the Wheelbase.

Is it possible I used the wrong type USB port on my PC?

The DD+ I purchased just arrived and my V3 throttle hall effect sensor is broken so I'm hoping these CSR pedals will work with the DD+ wheel base and not need a firmware update.

Hey r/Fanatec

We have temporarily paused shipments of the CSL DD and Gran Turismo DD Pro while we complete additional quality checks on a recent production batch. 

These products and related bundles will be unavailable for a short period. Shipments will resume as soon as these checks are complete. 

We will share another update when products begin returning to stock.

Hello, I want to modify my CSL cockpit and searching for screws, spacers and nuts with this gun metal color. But I cant find any? Does anyone or mod can help me here please? 🙏

So I'm after a 350mm drift style basic wheel for my CSL 5nm and wondering how much FFB i'll potentially lose with the bigger rim? At some point I will probably get a boost pack to send it to 8nm but not really desperate for that yet.

So please do tell, do you have a 5nm with a 350mm wheel, how was it affected if at all?

I'll be using a Simube QR2 Ultra (enable FFB) with a random 350mm wheel.

I don't know if anyone at Fanatec monitors this Reddit channel? Your customer service are clueless, I assume it is 3rd party company? They don't know what products, you have, they know absolutely nothing about the products, they are totally clueless & cannot even deal with basic requests. TO SAY IT IS AN EMBARRASSMENT FOR FANATEC IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. IF YOU WANT ANY CUSTOMERS LEFT I'D DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS JOKE YOU CALL CUSTOMER SERVICE ASAP.

Its nice but with the buttkicker, all the transducing feels like sensory olverload. I may just need more time to adjust/tweak.

Thank you guys so much for the nice comments on my last post really means a lot! 🥹🫶