One of my most efficient typing experience is on short-travel scissors keys. I wish to reproduce it by using O-rings + fast switch which actuates at the very beginning of travel. This way I'll achieve short total travel. Do not recommend me low profile switches, because my keyboard only supports standard MX and I also don't like low profile keycaps.

Hello, been a long time lurker and have dug pretty deep into the rabbit hole myself. Wondering if there are any coders amongst us who are willing to help me port the firmware for this keyboard over to Vial.

This is my current keyboard, the Truestrike42 that the original creator helped me procure a while ago, but it runs on VIA. https://github.com/byungyoonc/TrueStrike42/tree/main/doc

Ive seen that the sunder keyboards ran on HE Vial firmware, but I'm not really sure how to port it over in a meaningful way. Is someone able to help me get a working vial firmware and relevant material to flash the firmware on my truestrike42? I tried to make it work but i miss having tap dance, oneshot mods, and combos readily available, and in comparison VIA lacks the same level of refinement I found while using Vial.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated, if you look at the resources tab in the sunder discord you'll see links to the github that contain vial firmwares for hall effect keyboards, just hoping to replicate that as best as possible. Thank you!

I really wish I had done more research here before I purchased, but I needed a good keyboard alternative and it looked perfect for my needs.

It arrived in a week or so and upon unboxing and setup the right side of the keyboard didn't power up at all. Jumped through all the testing hoops myself and indeed it seems like an issue with the left side of keyboard and no data or power coming out of the USB link port (that you use to attach the right half of the board).

Opened a ticket with support, and been going back and forth for a week now. All the lame excuses, try other cables, plug it in direct, make a video that shows you doing this, etc. So I made a video that clearly demonstrates the issue. Then they said they couldn't view it (my server logs said otherwise) and asked me to post it elsewhere. Two more video posts and now they have dropped that tactic and have circled back to saying "Can you please try it again with the included USB cables" which I clearly used along with another pair of actual quality USB cables in the video that I sent.

I really wish I didn't do that late night purchase before I researched them. It's a shame as the keys feel great on this board -- even though it looks like Hello Kitty (they also didn't really say anything around this either LOL, it was described as Blue and White, no mention of the flowers and candies and donuts on all the keycaps).

Should I just be calling Visa and doing a chargeback with these jokers? It's been a week going back and forth with support now and we seem to be back at script page 1 to try and avoid replacing the defective hardware ...

Hey, been out of the keyboard game for a few years but the MCUs on my Lily58 somehow crapped out and i need replacements. Wanted something with USB-C and enough onboard memory to support an OLED.

I'm used to the ATmega32U4 Pro Micro/Elite-Cs, but it seems like RP2040 boards are also on the scene, is that worth picking up/is it even compatible with a Lily58 PCB or should i just stick to what I know works? Thanks!

I am a beginner in ergogen and want to build my first own keyboard and i really need some help about some things in ergogen and would appreciate any help. Also please help me directly and not by sending the ergogen docs link. I read into those and dont understand anything about those things i have questions about.

1. The first picture is how i want my keyboard to look like and my question is if i should align the keys like the first picture where i did them like the key caps or like the second picture where i did the alignment like the switches?

2. If the second picture would be the correct option the how to i connect everything into one big outline. (I know i should use the polygon funktion and points but the examples on ergogen docs do not show for me.)

Thx in advance for anyone answering me :)

Also could anyone give me the discord ergogen server link? The one on their website doesnt work.

Cut Folders wedged into (makeshift) monitor raiser and 2 bags of cooked rice. My temporary solution while searching for (better) tenting solutions.

Sharing a pic of my Crosses (Crosses/Bridges) V2 build! I’m rocking nocturnal switches with MBK keycaps to accommodate for my 2 color choice. I’m really pleased with how it turned out! I’m thinking at some point in the future I might want to upgrade to self-dyed KLP Lame keycaps to keep the color scheme but upgrade the feel.

I was super stoked on the v2 release and ordered immediately when it became available (and am so glad I did). In similar fashion I stayed up until 2 am putting it together the day the kit arrived!

I’ve been daily driving it for almost 2 weeks now and have not had any issues to note yet (aside from not having my HMR timing setup correctly when trying to set them up via ZMK studio (pun intended)).

The angled thumb cluster feels very natural to me, but I’ve got my board tented fairly aggressively and I reckon that could have an impact. This always seems to be peoples biggest question about this board but I always intuitively understood this design choice as lining up the thumb keys with the way that a thumb would want to naturally flex (like pushing a button on a game controller, vs slapping the hole thumb down on a spacebar).

The trackballs work well and I like the placement for index/middle finger tracking. I’ve not yet taken the time to map one of the halves to scroll function, but I’m excited to try that out. The mousing layer has been really intuitive to use, but dedicated pointing device is nice for heavy click/drag work, especially if using modifiers as well (but hat might just be my HRM issues haha)

Pleasantly surprised how well they handled being FDM printed. Printed with Prusa PLA "marble grey".

Bought this beauty two years ago, but it sat in a box because I couldn't find a black trackball replacement. Finally tracked one down and gave it a proper chance! It won’t replace my daily driver, but it’s too fun not to use occasionally with my Mac.

Does anyone have recommendations for a good carrying case or sleeve to safely transport an unibody split layout like this without damaging the trackball or switches?