Working in a truck for someone who took it apart but didn’t bother to remember where all the grounds go and lost the bolts so can anyone tell where the heck this one goes please (context it comes straight off the battery)

Edit 2008 with the 4.7

Found this for sale from a private seller for 15k(WA state, our market is crazy, wasn’t finding anything similar for less than 20k without going out of state, was also in a hurry cause I needed something to tow my work boat) Has 300k on chassis, but had a reman motor and transmission 110k ago. Looks like a total delete to my untrained eye, not sure of the tune yet but gotta figure that out. No codes at the time of test drive, actually drove it twice before buying. Everything seemed fine, but when I put the first few thousand miles on, I started popping codes for my pedal sensor, trans solenoid, trans pressure, and a few random others on and off. Really hard down shifts with a clunk, pedal response all over the place, going into limp pedal at times, 4th gear limp mode once

Watched a 3 hr video on how to take the trans completely apart, got mentally ready to spend some money and time on the 68rfe, looking at rebuild options, solenoid options, the works

Climbed around under the truck, inspecting everything while I thought about the situation. Suddenly, I found one of the electrical connectors completely unplugged from the transmission. There are numerous other plugs, going to nothing, because of whatever delete, so I almost missed it the first time. I’m not sure how such a heavy duty connector could unplug on its own, nothing else looks out of the ordinary around the plug. After plugging it back in, she shifts normal, has cleared most codes on its own. I’ll keep my Bluetooth OBD plugged in and monitor everything closely

Seems like I got pretty lucky?

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.9l with a 46RE Transmission.  I have been fighting transmission electrical issues for awhile and I am just about at my wits end with it. I was able to drive just fine but had to manual shift (1^st, 2^nd, D), but it would not go from 3^rd to 4^th while in drive.  

Started with these codes:

·       P1762 – Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Volts High or Low

·       P0753 – 3-4 Solenoid Circuit/Transmission Control Relay Circuit

·       P0121 – Throttle Position Sensor, Performance

I changed the Shift Solenoid ( WELLS 2N1202) and then ended up with:

·       P0753 – 3-4 Solenoid Circuit/Transmission Control Relay Circuit

·       P1756 – Go. Pressure not equal to target @ 35-40 PSI.

Noticed that the wires going into the 3 pin plug on the side of the transmission had no shielding left, so I replaced that plug and then got:

·       P1762 – Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Volts High or Low

I also got 4^th gear back while in drive.

I replaced the 8 pin plug just grasping at straws and that did not change anything.

Here is where it is getting frustrating.  I replaced the pressure sensor (ROSTRA 501171) and the 1762 went away, test drive I got 1^st and 2^nd back while in Drive, then check engine light came back on after about a minute with a P0748 – Transmission Control Relay Circuit/Governor Pressure Solenoid Circuit and no more 1^st, 2^nd, or 4^th gear in drive.  

Swapped back to the original sensor, thinking maybe the new one was either wrong part or bad.  Back to the P1762 code.  

I just changed the sensor again, this time the ROSTRA 501017, and same issue as with the other sensor, works for about a minute, check engine light and then back to just having 3^rd gear while in drive.  

I have also cleaned the ECU plugs with contact cleaner and reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable and holding the key on for 30 seconds.  

Next steps I can try are:

·       Replacing overdrive relays / internal 8 pin.

·       Pulling the transmission and rebuilding with full electronics replacement.

·       Just getting a replacement transmission. 

·       Crying softly to myself.

I also read somewhere that the Transmission Control Relay Circuit/Governor Pressure Solenoid Circuit gets 5 volts from the O2 sensors, if this is true, I can change those and hope for the best as well. 

Any advice or help right now would be amazing! 

My 2015 Ram 1500 is messing up BAD

I honestly have no idea what’s wrong with it. I’ve been working on trucks for as long as I can pick a wrench up and I can’t figure out what’s going on with it. I’ve taken it apart and checked the valve train. I’ve already did an MDS delete in a whole cam swap with the truck and it ran fine for a year. It started misfiring on cylinder eight like dead cylinder and now all of a sudden I take it apart to try to see if the push rod was messed up because I already checked everything prior and it was fine. I put it back together and now it’s misfiring like it’s running like a four wheeler. I have no idea what’s going on with it. Please help lol. it’s missing on at least 4 to 5 cylinders and it was only missing on one prior to taking apart the valve train. I torqued it all to spec and everything I have no idea what’s going on.

Dodge Ram 2017 1500 v6, 78k miles. Financed it used 3 years ago. Nothing but problems. Put 10k down, been paying it off monthly since then. Owe 8k on it at this point. Mechanics telling me theirs coolant leaking into the engine, which is consistent with my truck overheating. He said I’m looking at at least 4k because they have to take the engine apart/out to see where the leaks coming from. Theirs no way I can even get 8k if I tried to just get the car off my hands. And I can’t pay 4k at the moment, nor would I want to put 4k into a car I owe only 8k on. It’s my only car. I guess I’m taking Ubers everywhere from now on?

I’m on the fence about upgrading from a 2015 Ram 1500 Tradesman. It’s got about 140k miles. I’ve had regular oil changes, new brakes about a year ago. I bought it in 2018 with about 85k miles on it. I’m a YouTube specialist when it comes to fixing things, so any help with what to replace/keep an eye on myself would be appreciated. Also not dumb enough to take on a task that I can’t handle. The only thing that really sucks is the heat doesn’t work, only hot air comes out of the windshield vent and it takes a while to get hot.

Hey everyone,

I’m a high school student learning embedded electronics and automotive communication protocols. Right now, I’m working on a desktop bench setup using an Arduino Uno and an MCP2515 transceiver to reverse-engineer CAN bus data streams.

I’ve been experimenting with a Volkswagen MQB cluster, but I really want to shift gears and try mapping out a 4th Gen Dodge Ram cluster. My family actually owns a 2012 and a 2015 Ram, so I have the perfect reference cars right outside to sniff data frames from, log IDs, and build a simulation.

The Catch: I am on a strict $0 budget for this project.

I am looking for anyone who has an old, broken, or completely unsellable 4th Gen Ram cluster sitting on a garage shelf that they’d be willing to part with for free.

• It does not need to be functional for a real car.
• Cracked plastic lenses, snapped needles, or scuffed faces are completely fine.
• Ideally, I'm looking for the mid-trim version with the 3.5-inch monochrome EVIC center screen (the one that flashes "NO BUS" when it loses communication), but I'll gladly take whatever is available.

As long as the main circuit board inside isn't snapped in half, it is a perfect learning tool for me to map out power, ground, and transceive lines on my desk.

If anyone has a one collecting dust that they'd be willing to donate to an aspiring hardware modder, please let me know! I’m happy to cover shipping if it's reasonable, or pick it up if you happen to be local.

Thanks for reading!

Ok so I’m due for a new set of tires here in the next couple months and I’m looking at going bigger. Right now I have a 3 inch front level, 2 inch rear block, and 2 inch wheel spacers. Looking to keep the stock wheels it’s on right now, but upgrade my 32’s to something like a 35 or 37. I know the 35 will clear for sure, but I want the most tire possible tbh. The truck I have is a 2006 ram 1500 4wd. Does anyone have 37’s with a level? How much or did you do any trimming at all? How’s the rub? Does it rub? Any comments appreciated.

I purchased this 2014 Ram longhorn theft recovery. I believe they suspected it had some sort of connection modules by the rearview mirror, but couldn’t find the right one as the navigation system still works, so I’m wondering if it’s worth reinstalling the missing module and plug( Chatgpt says it’s the rain sense and the actual mirror of course ) There are two extra wires which I have no idea how to connect some are the same color, so I’m not sure what to do with them. What are your thoughts on this?

hi everyone, i am looking for opinions/advice on if a fuel tank from a 98-02 will fit on a 94-97? i am aware of the evap lines ontop but im wondering if the fuel filler neck will line up? my current tank has a hole in the bottom that ive patched due to the previous patch failing and it failed again, in my area i cant find any partout trucks on marketplace and ebay prices are way too insane. any help apprecieted.

So I got a 2001 dodge dakota with a 3.9 liter v6. 150000 miles.

Minnesota pickup so good about of rust. I got a misfire on bank 1, cylinder 1, 3, and 5. I did a compression check. Bank 1 about 150 psi. Bank 2 about 160 psi. Distributor cap is clean so is the spark plug wires. Spark plugs are new. Bank 2 was clean, Bank 1 spark plugs where wet. Upstream o2 sensor is also cleanesh. PS the misfire are after I come to a stop and get going again. Feels like its trying to go in 4th gear and just shutters and pops. Push pedal to the floor she'll shift down and take off, running fairly good till I stop again.

Hey all, I have a 2022 high roof van that activates the traction control at highway speeds when it starts to sway. Only at highway speeds. Is there a way to disable the feature beyond pressing the esc button? It still activates regardless. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Tim Esterdahl of Pickup Truck +SUV interviewed Stellantis Hurricane and Hemi Engine Chief Engineer Alan Falowski on why the Hurricane was replacing the 5.7L Hemi.

Is it common for a stock '00 ram 1500 to go through wheel bearings to the point the entire assembly is separating in less than 5 months from basic road use? Tires are 265/75 16 Edit: 4x4 model so its hub assembly front.

5.2l with 112k miles I love this thing!

Couple things we’ve designed and made for the old trucks (1st and 2nd gen)

All items available on our website firstgendesigns.ca