I've seen a lot of criticism of black or white truffle oils as not very good and being used haphazardly in dishes to cheat a luxury taste.
However, it seems very commonplace among chefs' dishes and their components, even when not explicitly labeled a 'truffle' thing. I've had dishes that definitely feel like truffle oil has played a part, especially with how nasal and uniquely garlicky that opening note is.
Here's a recipe from The French Laundry for a fontina and celeriac purée, for example:
Ingredients
- ½ cup sliced onion
- 1½ tsp chopped garlic
- 1½ tbsp unsalted butter
- 1⅓ cups peeled, sliced celery root
- ½ cup peeled, sliced Yukon Gold potato
- 2–3 cups vegetable stock
- 3 cups heavy cream
- 1 cup lightly packed shredded creamy Fontina, about 2½ oz
- Kosher salt and white pepper
- ½ cup beurre monté
- 1 tsp white truffle oil
Method
Sweat the onion and garlic in butter without browning. Add the celery root, potato, and enough vegetable stock to cover; simmer until very tender. Add the cream and reduce slightly. Blend until completely smooth, then strain. Melt in the Fontina, season with salt and white pepper, and finish with beurre monté and truffle oil.
1 tsp isn't a crazy amount, but it's not insignificant either. Can any experienced cooks give some insight into this?