I feel sick about it! I’m too scared to call but is an email too impersonal?

Im pretty handy, there’s not a lot I can’t do repair wise exclusive of obvious license only things like electrical, gas and plumbing. These blocks, however have me stumped and I honestly don’t know if I’m just overthinking it, or if this is just beyond me right now. They’re 1x1 concrete blocks so give or take 2.5 tonnes a piece.
Im in a marine conservation area, we have regular patrols from various Maritime orgs eg fisheries, environmental protection, Water Police and then random conservation groups (the other day had a group out on boats trailing a couple hundred meters behind a small pod of dolphins in the passage) so no chance of sneaking in the repair. I don’t know if I’m allowed to use concrete or if it’s a certain type that won’t leech to try and give it some kind of ledge or if I just build a fence with wire balustrading a few meters back and give it an exclusion zone. Or is there a mechanical anchor/footing i could do to stop it getting worse?

We’re renting here, have raised it with the owner today (he’ll reply when he can) but I’d like some kind of a direction to send the guy in to figure out how to fix the movement.

The block at the end was just a few weeks ago, butted against the one behind it heel to toe and has separated somewhere between im assuming the 18th-today when I’ve seen the issue. We had pretty hectic winds. Max wave peak heights ranging between 6-10+ meters off the coast and the wind chop hit .8 meters low tide and 1.2m high tide and had them between 1-3meters apart essentially giving us standing waves (wild for a maybe 400meter wide passage) but it’s begun to now obviously undermine the blocks. They’ve seen movement in the past. But there’s a 4yo, 2yo and by this time next week a newborn here. Im leaning towards exclusion zone and the owner is generally happy to pay materials plus a bonus and leave me to my own devices fixing stuff around the place though which helps

Long story but I want to patch up a small square on my timber floor. Went to Bunnings but they only have laminate. Where should I go for this DIY project?

I’m getting a retainer wall replaced and this is the only access we have for a mini excavator. The landscaper has said he wants to destroy the staircase so he has a nice hill to drive up and down (not in our budget). He has said the slab underneath will collapse if we attempted with ramps.

The slab is roughly 200mm thick, stairs have a 20-25 degree gradient.

We are considering sandbagging the staircase case, and packing down a heap of top soil to create our own dirt mound.

Any other options we could use? Thanks in advance!

Does it look like this tile is about to be laid incorrectly with spot fixing?
Or does it look like there is scope the tiler is going to spread more thoroughly and apply properly?
Sorry don’t have more info, just wanted to catch it in case it was an issue. Many thanks!

Ps how can you tell after tiling is complete if they’ve been spot fixed??

I got to check the flexihose under the basin and seems theres a bit of rust marks developing?

Should I replace it soon? I assume have to replace the whole thing and not just the hose.

Alsl does anyone know what brand this tap is? Trying to find exact one for replacement as the other one doesn't seem to have any rusts yet so only one may need to be replaced..

Sorry for the bad photo - did the people installing my 9mm hybrid leave too little for expansion gaps?

So we had a sparky install a purple box for a powerpoint above our bathroom double vanity benchtop, but there was a miscommunication and unfortunately he installed it right in the middle of the tile line that will be the top of the backsplash.

I am going to ask him to come back and move it before the tiler starts, but just wondering if I should ask him to move it up above the backsplash, or down below it and closer to the vanity top?

Considering the options I would prefer it lower so it is closer to the vanity top and therefore the gadgets that will be using it (water flosser, electric toothbrush chargers), but electrical regs may only allow it about 50-70mm lower than it is given we are having above vanity vessel sinks installed.

If we move it up it will be approximately 450-500mm above the bench top which might look odd but will be clear of the sink no-go zone.

Anyone done this and have any advice as to what will look less shitty while still being compliant?

I need advice about my doors I had painted. Apparently these are sealed top and bottom but the tops are rough to touch and the bottom are too. Obviously I cant fit my phone under the door but I took pictures of the tops. I called him and asked if this was sealed and apparantly only one coat is needed to seal. Is he taking the piss or am I being pedantic due to prior owners causing me shitty renovation trauma.

For reference, I am not a tradie and I bought this house 8 years ago. The existing doors all swelled, 3 bedroom doors, the toilet and the bathroom and had to be replaced and I found out they werent sealed top or bottom. I live in the tropics, work shiftwork so have aircon on a lot and my main fear is it happening again.

Howdy,
We’ve just found out that our shower waterproofing has failed after discovering a leak. The bathroom is from the late 90s we think.

My understanding is that this requires a full re-do of the shower because waterproofing can’t be “fixed” per se. So we figured we might as well do the whole bathroom while we’re at it, annoying as it is.

I’d really love any recommendations for a company who can do this project for us. It’s a mid-large bathroom. We’re in the western suburbs of Brisbane.

Also if you’ve recently done a bathroom reno with a company (not DIY), I’d be keen to hear what your total expense was, just to get a rough idea. Also was there much of a wait for tradie availability?

Budget hopefully <40k. Not moving layout or plumbing. Mid-range is the idea.

I want to install a roller door for laneway access at the back of my house. I’m in Melbourne and want affordable options. Any advice or suggestions? Thanks!

Sorry for the bad photo - did the people installing my 9mm hybrid leave too little for expansion gaps?

Turns out the 1960s house I’ve lived in for almost 2 decades has no stormwater management system- at all. Downpipes go to the ground, then nowhere. Council told the plumbers I engaged for a quote that there is no designated LPOD on their records, and they won’t authorize access at the kerb in the front of the property- instead directed them to contact the local Water mob about discharging to a small suburban creek behind my property (including access over a neighbour’s property). Initial estimate was $30K, which was eye-watering enough, but they’ve since torn up their former schedule of works and estimate and apparently now I would be looking at $50,000+ (that I don’t have) to sort this.

I understand that the homeowner is responsible for maintaining stormwater up to the legal point of discharge- but when there ISN’T a LPOD, does the poor bastard (in this case, me) pay 100% of the cost of setting one up? I can’t afford this- do I just…not?

I'm noticing that our place seems to have a lot of draughts (doors, windows, even near the kitchen cabinets) etc where heat is escaping, and need to get it professionally assessed and fixed (this is way beyond my time and capability).

Anyone can recommend any services in Bendigo (or that work in Central Victoria) that can do something like this? All I've found so far are https://www.goinggreensolutions.com.au/ and https://www.ephe.com.au/, but no idea if they're any good, or if they even service the local area.

I know I'll have to remove as much of the remaining soft grout as possible (I have found a flathead screwdriver is enough to move some of it given how soft it is), however what would be the best product to fill in? I've seen the Davco Ready To Use Easy Grout product, along with the Platinum Rejuvenation Grout and the mix it yourself bags.

Given how much is gone completely, I'm assuming a product like Platinum Rejuvenation Grout may not be overly effective, if there isn't a lot left to 'rejuvenate'.

Any guidance on the best way to go about doing this would be greatly appreciated.

Final update on my Understair drawer storage project. The bench is installed for ease of wearing shoes (particularly for seniors). Diy oak pebble coat hooks for guests. Daily work bag hook and long reach shoe horn also available.

Documented the full process on my YouTube if anyone is interested. Just search for 'MXC builds'

All in costs probably around 900 AUD in materials.

On to the next project!

Like the title suggests, I’m wanting to insulate our roof space before summer comes back around, but when I got up there to measure, it seems like it’s not standard?

I was hoping to do the cross-hatching method I had seen recommended in here before, but I’m not sure how that works with what seems to be quite a shallow depth? Do the batts just mushroom out over the top of the joists if they are taller than the depth? Then I place the other batts over them?

Many thanks in advance.

Hi! Longtime lurker, first time poster here. Big fan of everyone’s work. Anyone seen something like this before? Seems pretty ah … wrong? What on earth am I meant to do here?! 😭

3 downpipes feed into the one pipe that goes to the water tank. They join up at a few points. (Theres also a first flush system in place.) At some point old mate has put in a concrete pathway, and the water tank pipes end up in this situation. 😬

This cannot be good! It’s permanently damp and there’s moss growing there. (There’s an aircon unit just up from this, which drips out heaps just above it too.) (that whole side of the house is a bit fked tbh.)
Any advice? (Have cleaned a bit of this crap out with a wire brush since taking these pics.)

I’m planning a bathroom renovation and would appreciate some layout advice.

The attached layout is my proposed design. I’m keeping the existing plumbing locations (bath, vanity, and shower), with the only real layout change being the shower screen.
My current shower has a fully enclosed three-panel sliding screen, which I want to replace with a modern walk-in shower using a fixed glass panel only.
The issue is space. With the current layout, I can only fit a 600 mm fixed panel. That leaves approximately 740 mm between the end of the bath and the shower screen for entry into the shower.
I’m trying to avoid:
a hinged door, as it would conflict with the bathroom entry door
a sliding shower door, as I prefer the cleaner look of a fixed panel

My questions are:
Is a 600 mm fixed panel too narrow (I know some water will splash beyond, but would it be too much?)
Is a 740 mm shower entry practical?
Would underfloor heating help dry any water that splashes beyond the panel, or am I relying on it too much?
Would you change anything else about this layout while keeping the plumbing in the same locations?

Other details:
Located on the NSW Mid North Coast.
Budget around $20k
I’ll be doing the demolition, sheeting and fit-off myself, with licensed trades doing the plumbing, electrical, waterproofing and tiling.
Any feedback or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Our house previously did not completely close in this bed room because it had an exposed evaporate air conditioner vent running through the house.

I would now like to frame the rest of the wall and add an opening for a sliding barn door. The remaining space between the exposed stud on the left and the plastered wall on the right is 880mm.

I am planning re use the existing studs on the left and right as king studs and then attach new jack stacks to bear the door frame header / the rest of the wall above it.

Problem is since this is a extension there is no bottom plate for the new jack stud to sit on. Is it ok to directly screw a new jack stud to the existing king stud without a bottom plate?

It is an old house built in the 60s so the existing studs are non standard 75mm hardwood.

I also plan to cut out a seam in the drywall for the new jack studs so that they directly attach to the existing king stud.

We have this gate in our driveway, and unfortunately the clearance required to swing it open means we can’t fit anything larger than a small hatchback in our driveway and have the driveway gate closed and secure. I’m looking into converting this into a bi-fold gate so we have more clearance. The long side has timber pickets on what looks to be a hollow steel frame. The frame is 3m L x 0.83 H. Is this project simply a case of cutting the gate in half, adding some new hinges, a swivel gate wheel to support the middle and an additional drop bolt to secure it when closed? Or am I grossly underestimating the work involved?

I can cut the frame but don’t have any welding equipment so would need to be bolt on hinges.

How would you arrange this floor plan? With the ground floor they have turned part of the bottom double garage into this space. And I find it a bit tight. Keen to hear people’s creative thoughts!

The front gate needs to be repaired and I'm wanting to know how to uninstall it to fix it up. The gate has dropped about 10mm overall and there is wear in the upper and lower pivot points.

1. At the top, the shaft under the finial is worn away so there is a lot of movement in this area. As I need to remove it to access this, how is the finial attached to the top of the gate.

- Is it screwed on or is it welded?

- Any tips on how best to remove the finial?

- Or do you leave the finial in place and cut into the support to release the gate and re-weld it when ready to re-install?

1. At the lower end of the gate it seems to be a 'cup and cone' arrangement. I'm expecting to add material to the bottom of the gate and fix up the cup in order to raise and align the gate.

I'll be making a new gate latch and generally trying align the gate and the fence.

Any ideas and advice would be very much appreciated - cheers Ian