I’m having an issue where my car was running amazingly, I stopped it and when I got back I noticed my lights were left on, but the car still started, then immediately died, then would just crank and not start.

I have spark, and fuel pressure, don’t know abt compression, but my big thing is now I have codes for all 4 injectors and an 02 sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2). I’ve checked fuses and relays, they’re not blown and they click, I even opened the ECU up and don’t see anything bad. Would anyone have any answers/guesses to what it could be?

Update:
Thank you all for your support! I found the issue, it was 2 blown ECM fuses that I somehow missed, I found them by checking them with a Multimeter lol. After replacing them the car started up like normal! I think they blew bc one of my injector wires has rubbed through the outside and it showing the copper, I shall be fixing that lol!

2013 A4 Quattro 2.0 turbo
My engine fans quit working so I changed the fan control module then fans come on and wouldn't turn off so i replaced fans too now nothing comes on unless i unplug the ac pressure switch then comes on low speed for about one minute then shuts off,i check all the fuses and relays and changed the ac pressure switch n still nothing does any one have any idea what could be causing this issues

I have a b6 a4 avant that I 2.7t STK and manual swapped. However for the past few months I have been having a hell of a time aligning the shifter. (Been driving it here and there without 2nd)

I did the full jhm short shifter and bushing kit. (Would be nice to put the stock shifter back on to get rid of some variables however, threw away the stock shifter 🤦💀)

Every gear works perfect except for 2nd.

If you loosen the shifter and put it into second and tighten it down the 2nd gear is perfectly fine. However then you cannot get into any other gear.

I have had a handful of mechanic buddies and audi guys that are experienced in the b5/b6/b7 world and they havent been able to figure it out either.

At this point im almost thinking that the linkage i got for the swap is bent at this point.

Has anyone else ran into this and has some tips before I order a whole new shifter linkage assembly.

My Audi A4 b6 sucks about a 1/2 liter of coolant into engine while driving, after returning from my drive. I see that the reservoir is about 1/2 liter low, so I let the engine cools off.

I remove the coolant reservoir cap and to my surprise the 1/2 liter of coolant flows back up into the reservoir. WTF??

Brand new reservoir and cap, and it has been bleed a couple times. No leaks (including the coolant flange). So, all of the low hanging fruit has been vetted.

I heard somewhere that there is a difference in shocks from a normal trim and the cabriolet I dont know if that should effect what type of coilovers I can get

I’m looking to take my car to my mechanic he’s willing to do it but I need to source all the parts and he’s going to charge me if I’m missing a part
Can someone please tell me what exactly I need or if this is it and if I’m on the right track I’ve ordered all these things already/have

These are 19’ wheels
The brakes are 18z porsche 6 piston
brembos with 345m ml55 amg rotors
I’m sure somebody has these exact same wheels and has done a big brake kit just wondering if they needed spacers or if they were fine without them

Never knew they can come with rear air vents, is this real or am I going crazy. I first thought it was a photo of a a6 c5 but the doors are of the b6.

Finally found a NOS USP lower center grille, now to make it work on my conversion!
Still need the washers fixed

Looking for some help diagnosing an issue after a timing belt job on my 2003 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0 6MT. Im typically a subie guy so all the Audi computer stuff is new to me.

The timing belt service is complete and the car starts instantly, idles perfectly, drives smoothly, has good power, and doesn’t misfire. No ticking, knocking, rough idle, or drivability issues.

However, after driving for a very short time, the car develops what feels like a soft limiter around 5500 RPM where power instantly cuts off.

What’s strange is that if I disconnect the battery and touch the terminals together to discharge the modules, the issue temporarily disappears. The car will rev normally and no CEL is present. After about a minute of driving, the limiter comes back and the codes return.

I originally suspected a weak battery or alt (still thinking alt is dying but probably not the issue right?) because the old battery was only around 12.1V and the cell codes, so I installed a new battery. The problem remains.
(Probably just gonna return it)

Current voltage readings:

New battery installed
~13.48V at idle
Voltage rises slightly when revved
No obvious charging issues

Current fault codes:

Engine:

18057:008 - Databus drivetrain missing message from ABS control module - implausible signal
17936:004 - Bank 1 camshaft adjustment - open circuit/no signal communication
17465:004 - Bank 1 camshaft adjustment exhaust - open circuit/no signal communication
16885:004 - Vehicle speed sensor A - range/performance - no signal communication
17819:002 - Bank 2 secondary air system flow too low
17831:002 - Bank 1 secondary air system flow too low
18010:002 - Terminal 30 voltage too low

Additional module faults:

01206:027
01794:035
01312:079
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus: Faulty
01304:049
01316:049
00668:006 - Vehicle Voltage Terminal 30 Signal Too High
01366:036
00957:035
01560:059

A few questions:

Would a mechanical timing issue normally cause “open circuit/no signal communication” faults for the Bank 1 cam adjustment system, or does that point more toward a connector/wiring issue?
Could an unplugged cam adjuster solenoid or cam sensor cause the ECU to impose a 5500 RPM limiter while still allowing the engine to run perfectly?
Has anyone seen ABS/speed signal faults appear after timing belt work due to a shared ground or connector issue?
Is there anything in this code list that immediately points to a specific connector or ground that is commonly disturbed during service mode/timing belt work on the 3.0?

And honestly… if I just need to hear it straight, did I mess up the timing and is she basically toast?

I am losing a small amount of coolant per trip with no visible leaks on the engine or the ground. Does this small crack on the top of the coolant reservoir tank, cause the coolant to evaporate straight from the reservoir tank since the system is pressurized??

I recently bought an 05 a4 b6 avant. was wondering if anybody knew of anywhere to look for aftermarket cosmetics, I‘m aware that full body kits or anything extreme is quite rare, but looking for some bumpers and whatnot that aren’t OEM. thanks in advance!

Hi Guys,

​

have you kept the normal bulbs for the interior reading lights or would / have you install LED lights ?

​

Well the LEDs look nice but are mostly shining too bright and especially when the sun is down, its really too strong to look straight with them on.

Well the pro is the colour on the LED its a nice white colour, or would you stick with the yellowish-white non-LED bulbs from Osram, Phillips etc ?

Got new tyres but the wheel guys screwed these things on too tight. How to get them off without breaking anything?

Postovani,

Imam problem taj sto auto pri naglom ubrzanju (pun gas) negde na oko 3000 obrtaja ugasi turbinu.Upadne u limp mod i ako radi bez turbine dok se je ugasi/upali (resetuje) onda turbina radi.Na dijagnostici je izbacio gresku "Podesavanje nadpritiska-mehanicka greska 17965 (P1557)".Majstor je proverio sva creva vakuuma, i kaze da je dobro sve, turbina suva.Da li imate neku preporuku za servis turbine (resavanje problema) u Nišu ili okolini.Da li je neko imao slican problem sa ovim.

Hello everyone,

I have a 2004 Audi A4 B6 2.5 TDI that started having a very strange issue and I’m trying to figure out what is actually going on.

A few months ago I had a problem with the intake manifold flap motor (V157). I ended up removing the actuator from inside the intake flap assembly. After that the car actually ran perfectly fine. It had full power, no limp mode, just the check engine light and the stored fault for the flap. It stayed like this for about 4 months without any drivability issues.

Then the car sat for about a week without being driven. After that I went to work with it and everything was still normal. But when I left work and started driving home, it suddenly went into limp mode. Since then it has no power above roughly 2000 rpm, but it still starts normally every time.

When I scanned it again I now have multiple faults at the same time, including N75 boost pressure control solenoid, N18 EGR valve, N239 intake manifold flap change-over valve, J17 fuel pump relay, and the original V157 flap motor fault is still present.

What makes this confusing is that all of these components failed at the same time.

So far I have checked a few things. The battery is at 12.6V with the engine off and the alternator charges at around 14.2V when running. I checked the main ground points I could find, including the battery to chassis ground and the engine ground at the back of the engine, and they seem fine. I also checked the fuse box on the driver side and everything looks good there. The ECU area under the wipers is dry, no water ingress, and the ECU connectors look clean with no corrosion. I also checked the relay box under the ECU and measured a few relays, they all show around 55 to 70 ohms. I tested a 15A fuse near the relay box and it has continuity. The ECU itself looks clean and undamaged.

Has anyone seen something like this before? What should I do? I intend to keep this car for 3 months and then I'll get rid of it.

01282 - Intake Manifold Flap change-over Valve (N239) 35-10--- Intermittent

17809 egr valve n18 P1401-35-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

01375 - Valves for Engine Mounting; Stage 1 31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
19558- Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157) P3102 -35-00 - No Signal

I’ve only ever heard it with misfires so i don’t know, I haven’t got a check engine light so I’m guessing it fixed the issue but it still kinda sounds the same. 178k miles
Edit: I got the check engine light for misfire back after it was gone for a couple days after a timing belt job.

Is it possible to change single switch or I have to go for full unit?

I finished with a timing belt job on my 3.0 come to find out it was leaking oil through the camshaft sprocket cap because I installed it wrong, I’m supposed to press them on after the cap but I can’t seem to get it to compress enough for it to go into the groove. Do I need new rings or is there a specific method on getting them on

Hey guys! This is my 2001 A4 B6 1.8t.

I’m trying to replace my shift knob, but I’ve run into an issue. Every tutorial I’ve found shows a different setup to what I have.

When I pull the boot up, there’s a black semi-circular plastic piece underneath the knob that seems to be preventing removal. I've tried prying it off with a screwdriver and attempted the brute force and ignorance method, but it won’t budge.

Has anyone dealt with this setup before or know the correct way to remove it?

In the second photos that silver ring just above the black semi-circle is the actual shift knob not the retaining clip :(

Thank uuu