Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/s/OfCtczUvR5

A couple of you may remember a post of mine a few weeks ago about my dad killing my old Honda Element.

I genuinely thank you all for your support on this one.

This is both an update and a PSA to anyone that may pass by.

For those unaware - the serpentine belt snapped on this car while idling in a parking lot, and my dad decided to drive 30 miles home to both avoid a tow bill, or potentially getting stopped by law enforcement.

DO NOT. DO NOT - EVER DO THAT. PARK IT. YOU WILL TOTAL OUT A CAR.

The car made it home, and it completely trashed LOTS of things.

The radiator cap exploded, the radiator itself broke, it took out the water pump, and ultimately - it killed the head gasket. I found about 2 quart of oil in the radiator, and the last photo is a very small sample of what I got - oil even made its way into the overflow tank.

Those that know cars knows what all replacing the cylinder head in a FWD car like this entails - it turns into several "while you're in there" situations" or turns into an engine out endeavor with machine work depending on damage. And it's always a gamble.

Those little Hondas are tough, that engine can potentially be brought back around - but after some long, hard conversations - I opted to do a JDM swap on it.

The car just had new tires put on it, new radio with back up camera, new brakes, I got the radiator warrantied, new rear hatch struts, new shocks, trailer hitch, seat covers, floor mats, ect - a lot got put into this little dude. It didn't make sense to toss it. And head work was going to be about the same, and so many things could still be compromised. A JDM replacement is the only thing that made sense - to me anyways.

SO. If I can drive anything home to anyone out there. Pull over. Don't run it. If your car is running poorly, STOP. You aren't doing yourself any favors. You don't win a prize for "making it home" in a compromised vehicle if you don't know what you're doing. $150 turned into about $1600 in this case. Don't be stupid. Pull over. A daily driver shouldn't be a project, labor of love, or a money pit

I’m trying to remove stock struts but change get enough clearance to take them out, some people recommended spring compressors and I was wondering if this is the right way to do it?
Manual 1992 Lexus SC300

I guess the last guy reamed it, this exact model fits perfectly on the other side, the old one is there on the jack with a slit in it because I had to take a zip disc to it to get the nut/knuckle off. press couldn't move it out at all, I had to do a straight half hour of purse work to get it out (top of hole no longer PSA 10).

These are direct to the solid axle, is an oversized going to fit in this or do I just master oogway into some blossoms

EDIT: I dug the old oem lower from the other side out of the trash and have confirmed I received an out of spec part

First pictured the rear, both sides look like that, second picture is in front

I just had the pleasure of replacing a window regulator in my car today. I did this because I had one of my others replaced by a shop a few months ago and it cost over $300. I did a little research and figured it wasn't that difficult of a repair. I got it done in about an hour and was only out $60.

This whole ordeal got me thinking. What are some other common but simple repairs most semi handy people can do on their own?

only happens when the tire is in motion - regardless of foot being on gas or not. I’ve read maybe the wheel bearing??
i have a 2014 honda accord with 180k miles ..

I bought a 2020 Jeep Renegade Sport a month ago and have had this issue ever since. The dealership is stumped.

2018 Mazda 3 - brakes groan when the brakes are just at the threshold of stopping or letting go. Happens regardless when brakes are cold or hot. This also happens on a 2010 CR-V that I tried out of curiosity.

I'm unsure when the last brake service was but the pads and rotors look fine. Is this normal or do I need to lubricate some parts of the brake hardware?

It sounds exactly like in this video: https://youtu.be/Yv9EF_iNmRc

Hello, I have a 2004 Honda Civic LX 1.7L with 307,000 miles on it. I am having a new noise near the serpentine belt that I’m hoping somebody can help me identify. The noise sounds like it’s coming from the big pulley?

I recently had the head gasket replaced with the valve cover, as well as the serpentine belt and water pump replaced.

It has been 90° here in Washington and I have been using my AC basically 10 hours a day for two days and I now hear the sound. I don’t know if it’s related but it seems like it’s not a coincidence . Obviously 300,000 miles. These are probably original police. I’ve only had the car for 200,000 miles and I’ve never replaced any pulleys.. I am paranoid about my car breaking down, although it sounds innocuous?

Any and all advice or information would be greatly appreciated.

I was this under my truck and was wondering why its a different color then the rest.

1996 Mazds B3000 manual

1988 Cadillac coupe deville. i knew i was low on gas but the gas gauge in the car is somewhat inaccurate and often tells me i have more gas than i actually do. this car has cost me enough money PLEASE tell me i’m just out of gas😭or at least that that’s the most likely issue

The AC compressor on my wife's 2014 Chevy Malibu started making some noise a few weeks back and at the time I figured just let it ride and I'll replace it when it goes. Well the day has come and it is doing some weird stuff.

The system blows warm now.

When the AC is OFF the compressor appears to be engaged (center of the pulley spinning).

When the AC is ON the compressor is not engaged but appears to spin an 1/8 turn every now and again like it's dragging a little.

Both high and low pressure sides are showing about the same pressure at what appears to be 120 psi. Both gauge readings do not change at all whether the compressor appears engaged or not.

I was planning to take it somewhere to have the system evacuated and then replace the compressor, condenser and TXV. Anyone have any advise or insight on what failed. I'd like to not have to replace all the other components but it sounds like that is necessary if the compressor grenaded...

Both front fender liners of my 2017 Hyundai Elantra broke and need to be replaced. In addition theres a couple cracks on the bottom right side of my bumper, one of which goes through the section near where the fender liner clips in.

Can I get away with just replacing the fender liners or do I need to get a whole new bumper as well?

2021 i20 BC3 1.0 TGDi

Happens on cold starts, but even in warm weather.
Noise goes away after like 5min driving.
If I park the car for a few hours it usually comes back.

I’ve taken this to the dealer twice and the noise is still here.

They’ve changed belt tensioner (first visit) and belt (second visit) - video is from before belt change

I’m going back next Wednesday.. what could it be ?

Car is still in warranty but only until October so I want to make sure they get it right before then.

2021 Silverado 1500 with 2” rough country lift. I recently took my truck in for tire cupping. They recommended new shocks and struts. I agreed to replace but it appears they installed oem shocks/struts. my front tires are rubbing when turning. My tires are 275/65/20. What are my options.

Hi community

I've got an odd one here - my kids' mom owns a 13' Ford Flex non-turbo. About 100k miles. Occasionally gives a flashing CEL under load, but not always...

It has occasionally thrown a flashing CEL after hard acceleration, but never does it feel like it is misfiring... codes said it was misfiring in cylinders 2 and 5. Middle cylinder in each bank.

Here's what we've done:

-Replaced all plugs and coils - no change.

-Replaced all injectors - no change

-Ford dealer literally charged a diagnoses fee and said to keep more gas in it, noting that it had only happened when the fuel level was under 18% according to their scan tool. (Side note - ludicrous response. Charged us a diagnosis fee for that - no suggestion of how to fix that.)

-Even with more fuel - still happens intermittently.

At this point, we can of course try a third shop, but conventional logic on the diag decision tree seems to have been a waste of ~$1300 so far and has me feeling defeated.

What would you all check next?

Any ideas what could be making this sound

Looking for a truck, this one was listed in my price range. Low km (215,000 ish) 09 Dodge 2500. Similar trucks ive seen listed have higher km and higher asking price.

Hi, folks. Im hoping I can get some direction on where to start looking for a problem.

2014 Subaru Forester, 2.5L non-turbo, CVT, 107k odo.

So back story. In February I had the dealership change my spark plugs(yeah, yeah, I know. I chose money over time and shouldn't have). A couple weeks ago check engine light started flashing. Ran the codes, P0301 came up. Towed it back to my house, thinking it was the coil pack.

When I got under the hood, the coil pack was connected to the wires, still, but was completely out of the engine block. I found the bolt resting on the frame. I tried to install it all back in, but I couldn't get the bolt to grab. I assumed the dealership either overtightened or cross threaded the bolt, so I got it towed back to the dealer, after I switched around coil packs and verified they were all still working.

Dealership said the issue was the bolt as they tried a new one and it grabbed just fine. I got the car back on Monday.

Ive been driving it since and its been running fine. However, today a total of three different times I went to start it, the engine turned over, RPMs went up as they do, but instead of dropping to a typical idling RPM, the engine died. After trying again it'll start and run fine, but I figure something like that is worth taking care of before it gets worse.

I checked for codes again and its still showing P0301, but no check engine light. Ive read thats typical until you drive a few times, but id think by now it would be gone.

Im not completely ignorant to cars, but im certainly no mechanic, so if anyone can guide me toward where I should start, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I was working on replacing the thermostat when I happened upon finding out the housing was cracked and the cause of my coolant leak. I went to the local stores and they said the part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and I would have to find a niche store carrying one or go junkyard hunting. I also have zero clue where I am gonna find the outlet pipe that has been seized to the housing as I can’t find a part number or rly anything on it online. If anyone knows where I could source these parts (atleast the housing itself) I would really appreciate it!!!

1981 Ford F-100 Custom, 300cu 6C, manual

Ok so I’m a diesel mechanic and this is my first ls, I have a LC9 I’m deleting the DOD and VVT, when I was taking out the head bolts, they seemed to have pressure under them? And squirted out water or coolant. What is this?