This summer hear is kicking my ass. 1986 jdm factory 4age. The ac in mine works kinda okay but it's very mild. I think all the ac components are original but I can say for sure the compressor kicks on based on the rpms dropping and hearing switches/relays kick on when it blows coldish air. Would I be able to get away with having a shop recharge the refrigerant with new freon? Definitely trying to avoid replacing ac parts. Thanks

I am really sorry this is the only one I can come up with I had to generate it with ai so can visualise it what it would look like I'm I am really sorry if I offended you In any way

4AC, Weber Carb, manual choke, electronic fuel pump. Daily driver to the train station and back. (@bugginae86 - instagram)

I have my 84 5spd sr5 Corolla I purchased the car from the original owner the car has 135k miles clean California title grey/blue interior no rips or tears. I was given a binder of records from 1984 to recent and even the purchase agreement from the dealership. Also purchased the celica from the same family.

Found this Kouki AE86 Apex tucked away in a body shop's barn.... tried to snag it but the owner wouldn't budge and insisted on putting it up for auction. Mind you this was 10 years ago lol.

Ok so im installing an aftermarket Aeromotive FPR so i need to get rid of the oem regulator. Can i thread this hole and screw in a 6an fitting so i can run a line from the rail to the FPR?

On the way to the car wash with my 4ac powered AE86. Weber carb.

I don't know about the AE86 it's a legend. Can help me about of the this legend car?

Ladies and gentlemen, hope you're all having a good day wherever you are 🍻

I have a JDM Levin, 1985 with AE86 stamped into the firewall for what it's worth.

Near the three yellow ECU connectors, there is a white 16-pin connector with 2 rows of 2 large 6.3mm spade terminals in the centre, the rest are typical small ECU style terminals.

I cannot find this connector on the diagram I have not the diagram that is easily found online.

I have a few wires which are loose and not going to a connector or anything in the engine bay and want to check in on them. YEL/BLK, YEL/GRN, WHT/BLU, they may be unrelated but it looks like at least the yellow two were likely going to the same place.

If anyone can shed any light, I'd appreciate it, thanks and have a good one 👍

*Edit. for what it's worth, from a friend looking on an OE Toyota program it seems the YEL/BLK would go to the oil sender, YEL/GRN to a water temp sender spade on the front of the head (odd seeing as there are two legit 2-pin NTC temp sensors at the back of the head), and the WHT/BLU seems to be A/C related. This is the main ECU loom to body loom connector👌

Id like them to sit almost perfectly aligned with the fender that dont stick out much so i dont have to use overfenders, BUT! If i am going to use overfenders what offset could they sit perfectly with them? I don’t want an in between fenders and not fenders, either a cleanish look with stock fenders or really out so i have to use overfenders. What setups are you running?

Might have the opportunity to get these and wanted to see how they fit!

I wanted to have a rear wing on my car thats old-school, not a duck tail or GT wing and doesnt require drilling into the car so I decided to make my own :D

I need to take a few last measurements and then this thing can go to the printer. I decided to use aluminium rods and stainless steel thread inserts to put the separate pieces together securely and add an adjustable mounting bracket to the front of each wing stand which clamps on to the trunk lid.

Being my first bigger part I am building, I am quite excited on how it will turn out :D

Hello again!

Since i have been having some warm startup issues, i began searching for the issue by replacing the ignition leads. I ordered a set for the 4age bluetop, with the code RC-ET1210. I installed them today and they seem too long, leading to a tangled look. I installed them from shorted to longest, and this is the best i could manage. Any advice?

Fuel pump replaced (it was fine though, now I have a spare)

Spark plugs replaced (dirty but not bad)

Distributor replaced

Coil pack replaced

Distributor wires replaced

Spark plugs set off a test light

Fuel makes it to the rail so there's no Clog

It pulls in enough air to kinda vacuum my hand

Injectors are getting power

I'm pretty lost at this point, to be honest the electrical is a mess and not at all factory so I'm not sure how to handle it.

Any advice is appreciated.

Edit: I've also tried starter Fluid. I get backfires but nothing more.

Hi guys! I just wanted to share my cafe here in Thailand , Buriram. It will official open on August the 6! 8/6 Day.

You can watch this space on Instagram at fujiwarazone.th and maybe when you guys come over here to Thailand you can drop me a visit!

Thank you!

Genuinely don't know if another man's trash is your treasure. That 500$ junkyard 86 i bought is started to go through its transition and I won't be using many of the interior bits. I'm in Canada

Any huge fees or surprise billing with your order? Just hoping to gauge how much I’ll be all in with a set of tail lights and a fuel line. Seems to be the only reasonably priced place to find them, even with shipping.

Brake lights still work and turn signals still work. Headlights will work intermittently, but when they are not working, this buzz is coming from the headlight switch

I’ve taken the switch apart and cleaned all of the contacts, problems still persists. Tried switching the relay as well, problems still persist.

Has anyone ever had this issue before?

Edit: cracked open the headlight switch, and a few of the points needed to be soldered again

Problem solved

So my fuel pump went bad and i want to upgrade to a walbro 255lph. I know i need a regulator as well, so i bought the aeromotive FPR but im a little confused on actually putting it on. If im not mistaken i need a block off plate for the oem regulator but i cant seem to find one anywhere.