I have a 1987 Summer Yellow 944 Turbo that I’m getting ready for 944Fest. I’m in the process of getting major maintenance done that includes rebuilding my stock K26/6 turbo and upgrading it to an Evergreen Turbo with Raptor X #6 mods that will make it a “hybrid” K27/6. Does anyone have any experience with this upgrade? I currently have the Lindsey Racing 951 Max Performance chips, 3.0 Bar fuel pressure regulator, Lindsey Racing boost enhancer, Lindsey Racing silicone K27 J Boot, and cat delete. Everything else, including the fuel injectors and wastegate, are stock. Are there any mods that I need to install in order to safely run this setup? The boost enhancer is set to 10psi (stock) and the chips are supposed to limit the boost to 15.5 psi. I plan on upgrading the injectors, wastegate with boost controller, a new tune, and other supporting mods in the future. I just want to make sure that my 951 runs safely (no plans for the track). Any advice, suggestions, word of caution, etc. is greatly appreciated.

Hello I have a na 1987 and a strange thing happened while I was driving the car. The car had been running well for 10 minutes and first I pushed a little harder on the accel and the car kind of stopped accelerating and I released the pedal and pushed it again and it went back to normal but the next time I pushed on the accel a litle harder than just slowly cruising the car did the same thing but it’s like I was not getting any power to the weels (the rpm was not increasing) then stalled. Then I stopped on the side of the road turned off the ignition key and started again no problem and drove back carefully for 2-3 min. Any idea what could be the problem ?

Hi y’all. I just got my 1990 turbo running. And alas found out that the intake boot had a massive leak under it…

So my question is; do you guys have any suggestions as to what parts to get now oem or upgrade. And where should I get them from?

I wasn’t able to find much info on the seller of the part in the picture. Any experiences?

Hey guys,

I've been wanting to refresh my rear shock absorbers for a while now on my 1986 NA. I do not need heavy duty Bilsteins or Koni's, as I do not track the car. The cost of them is too high for my use, and I already replaced the fronts with OEM Sachs absorbers, so the added value would be low. I just want to refresh it and keep it as close to OEM as possible.

I have however had trouble finding the OEM shock absorbers, since they are seemingly out of stock everywhere. OEM number in the catalog is 951 333 032 05 for Fichtel/Sachs absorbers. If I backtrack OEN numbers by Sachs, I end up with number 477 513 031 H, but every site lists them as compatible only with the early model. Does anyone know for sure they are also compatible with the phase 2 NA models? Or alternatively, where to find OEM shocks in Europe? (US Shipping is always insanely expensive, so I'd rather not order there)

For reference: https://partworks.de/2x-shock-absorbers-for-PORSCHE-924-944-477513031A

If they just don't exist anymore, what would you guys propose as a replacement in my scenario? I know many people will always say to just go for the more expensive Koni's as they are better, but it just doesn't seem worth the extra price for me...

Thanks!

I’m I fucked?

Greetings from Russia everyone!
Currently building a stance-ish 944S2 and got a rear camber issue. Basically, the stock -2.5 or something degrees is not enough.

I've got 10.5j 10ET R18 wheels, swapped the aluminum rear control arms to early steel ones (to get some space) and reindexed the torsion bar (1 inner click). And now the last thing to make a good fitment is getting the additional camber from somewhere. I've found a lot of posts about it, but they never get more than 2-2.5 or something around that, while I'm looking for 5-6 degrees.

The photo is how it looked like before, just in case

P.S. don't mind the lambo doors, just an echo of the past haha

Hey all, currently rebuilding my power steering rack and cannot for the life of me get the seals in the tube and the pinion housing out. I've tried slide hammers, pliers, picks everything I could think of. Is there some trick im missing/ can I just melt them out because aside from that I'm out of ideas.

Hi all, I am making some wheel speed 48 tooth rings. These are just prototype and mocking up. I am doing this for wheel speeds for traction control and for mk60 m3 abs unit I am retrofitting.

Would anyone else be interested? I figure within a month I will have them laser cut. These pictured are plasma cut (since i have access to it) it will use e46 sensors and the front will replace the dust backer shield and include an air duct ring for closing like the Lindsey racing ones. This would be for early NA 944/924S.

If i do make a few kits it would be for the 4 toothed rings, front inner plate with sensor mount and air duct and rear sensor mount off the 2 transaxle mounting bolts. I see it being less than $150 max with shipping.

I am just trying to gauge if there is any interest.

Thanks

996/986 front brake adapter kits for 944 NA and 951/968 now available - taking pre-orders! Please send me a direct message if interested.

These are an intermediate upgrade step between stock and my Cayenne brake kits. Calipers and discs are still inexpensive though!

Pricing starting $375-400 shipped depending on variant. Lead time 6 weeks. Hoping to get at least 5 of both style kits ordered in the first batch to be efficient with CNC time.

I provide adapter brackets and all fasteners and instructions.

For early cars I can provide modified rotors.
For late cars I provide hubcentric rings to center the 986/996/etc discs on the 944 hub.

You provide the calipers/pads. For 87+ cars you provide the discs too.

Recently, in a matter of a few days, I got multiple people asking me if I could put this together.

I purchased and borrowed lots of 996 parts, got measurements and currently have an unbelievable amount of brake discs in my garage 😂

I have my prototype brackets made to verify fitment, and everything is lining up as expected.

What differentiates this kit from others on the market is built-in versatility.

By being intentional with the measurements, I designed these brackets to be compatible with multiple disc and caliper combinations depending on what your wheel size is that you need to fit. You just flip the bracket upside down and side for side to get the fitment needed.

For example, the NA bracket I have made can work in all these configurations:

Early NA:
- 282x24mm 911 rotor and 986 caliper (15” wheel/early NA)
- 330x28mm modified rotor and 996 caliper (with optional caliper spacer/17” wheel)
- 350x28mm modified rotor and 996 caliper (with optional spacer/18” wheel; requires some grinding on caliper ends)

Late NA:
- 298x24mm 986 rotor/986 caliper (some 15” wheels and 16”)
- 318x28mm 996 rotor/996 caliper (some 16” wheels and 17”/)
- 330x28mm 991 rotor/996 caliper (with optional caliper spacer) (17”/)
- 350x28mm 997T/PanameraTS rotor (with optional spacer/18” wheel; requires some grinding on caliper ends)

—————————————-
The Turbo brackets work in these combinations:

1986 Turbo:
- 320x28mm modified rotor/996 Caliper (maybe some 16” wheels but plan for 17”)
- 330x28mm modified rotor/996 caliper (17” wheel)

1987+ Turbo/S2/968 (non-M030):
- 318x28mm 996 rotor/996 caliper (some 16” wheels and 17”/)
- 330x28mm 991 rotor/996 caliper (with optional caliper spacer) (17”/)
- 350x28mm 997T/PanameraTS rotor (with optional spacer/18” wheel; requires some grinding on caliper ends)

—————————
Pricing:
late NA and late turbo $400 shipped in USA (base kit)
early NA and 86 turbo $375 shipped in USA (base kit)

Options:
- Spacers for various disc/caliper combos, message me for specific pricing
- Modified discs for early na/86 turbo, generally $350 shipped but message me for specific pricing

Notes:
- there may be a 302x28mm disc option for early NA/996 caliper but I need to verify fitment. The 996 brake pad may overhang on the inside slightly based on available measurements. 986 caliper may be able to be modified to fit.
- There is not a suitable 350mm disc option for 86T.
- Rear kits are coming soon after these fronts get moving.
- Pictures attached look similar but show the same caliper and adapter bracket fitting both a 318mm and a 330mm disc, just by flipping the bracket over.
- mockup photos of 330mm disc for early cars should be available next week when I’m back in town.

Hi everyone, here's an update to post from a little under two weeks ago. Quicker refresher, neither my heating or my a/c are working and have had an intermittent fan speed issue. I've been trying to troubleshoot these issues on my 86' NA and this is what I've done and figured out:

- Using link rennlist post link I can confirm that my HVAC outside temperature sensor is bad while the other two sensors are operating properly

- Ive tested the three flap control motors and all three work, however I can't get any Ohmns reading from the heater (mixed chamber) so I guess that means it can't tell it's positition. Are the motor and positition potentiometer the same part or same unit?

- finally I can confirm that clutch on my a/c compressor is not engaging and made me think that the refrigerant leaked out. I used a black light to look for any dyed refrigerant leaks and I'm fairly certain I found a leak at the firewall connection. (In a comment below I'll share the pictures I took.)

All in all, I'm going to replace the outside temperature sensor, and probably the heater mix chamber positition potentiometer. I'm also going to see if I can find a shop that can make sure there's no more refrigerant in the system then I'll try to fix my leak. If you have any tips on how to approach fixing that particular leak, I'm all ears. Finally, if you guys have any suggestions on anything else I should look into related to the heating and a/c please feel free to let me know.

I would usually be mad about something like this, but I’m ready to tackle it! Have done very little wrench work before this car and it sure has tested me😂. I was just getting close to putting the belts back on and reinstalling stuff when I noticed that #4 was full of coolant. The cam housing was going to have to come off anyway so I’m not too mad. If anyone has any tips on how to best approach a head gasket repair that would be great. Thanks in advance!

as the title states.

I‘ve been working on a head gasket replacement for some time now. 4 weeks ago, we put the engine back together, started it up and she turned over. for a moment. we quickly saw milkshake oil leak out near the rear passenger side and appears to be out of the rear of the valve cover where the cork gasket is?

took it all back apart, realized the new cam cover gasket we installed already broke and ordered a new gasket.

we also re-threaded where a bolt goes near the coolant hose, which I don’t believe has any impact but I am uncertain. This was my initial belief as to what causes the mixture.

currently, we put everything back together today. intended on flushing the system before fully preparing to test drive. well, the leak occurred in the same spot.. still mixing. reference the first photo. you can see it slowly leaking down the engine block.

here’s what I’ve already done as far as replacements.

new items:

• Victor Reinz gasket kit
• Resurfaced engine head
• new engine mounts
• New oil cooler gasket and seals
• new (upgraded one piece) OPRV
• oil filter & oil
• new hi-torque starter

im not admitting defeat. Just unsure of where to go from here as I feel like we checked everything twice now and I’m uncertain where it’s failing.

any help or ideas is appreciated

Just got these epic arms from 944 Enhancement. These are technically prototypes but very true to the production version. Designed for lowered cars with late offset. They enable easier ball joint replacement, have spherical crossmember bushings and a design that eliminates ball joint binding issues that can be encountered on lowered cars. These billet versions should be ready for purchase around 944Fest. Real stoked to get them on my 944RS build!

Hi all,

I have seen several videos of 944s using this roof rack - can you clarify for me the compatibility? I am not sure if the mounting points are the same (944 from 1984)

https://www.dometic.com/de-de/produkt/porsche-924-slimline-ii-roof-rack-kit

Also, here an article on their own website:
https://www.dometic.com/de-de/artikel/front-runner-on-the-move-korbinian-engstler

Thankful for every information!

My 944 has these spots on the paint in various locations. I’m curious as to what I can do to treat them if they’re all rust. Ideally a way that wouldn’t require a complete repaint.

924/944/928 Yakima Roof Racks [MONTH OF FREEDOM SALE] - On Backorder

I sold out of most if not all my kits by the 15th. A new order for parts is out and I will do my best if you need one before the fest. Just let me know in advance!

After several months of reverse engineering, testing, and refining, my Yakima Q4 replacement clips for the 924/944/968/928 are finally finished. They're based on 3D models of original Q4 clips and are direct drop-in replacements that let you bring your old Q Tower system back to life without hunting for impossible-to-find originals.

Complete Yakima Roof Rack Systems

* NOS Complete Kit: $1,250 $900 + shipping 1 remaining!

* Refurbished Complete Kit: $600 $475 + shipping

0 in stock (backorders open)

* Used Complete Kit: $500 $400 + shipping (round bar end caps included if available; clips supplied in raw stainless)

0 in stock ( 2 backorders / additional spots available)

Front Lift Spacers

* 2" Front Lift Spacer Kit: $400 $300 shipped — Includes all required hardware and FREE U.S. shipping. 1 pair in stock.

Replacement Clips

* Q4 Clip Replacement Pair (pads + stickers): $130 $110 shipped *(2 pairs required per vehicle)*

0 in stock (backorders open)

* Q30 Rear Clips (928): $110 100 shipped. 3 pairs in stock

Also, the DAE (my brand) website is almost ready. It'll feature downloadable 3D scans, affordable CAD files, free STL files for common plastic parts, low-cost printed replacements, and technical resources for the 924/944/928 community.

If you want your parts installed before 944Fest, reserve them before July 31st while sale pricing and inventory last.

Hi Guys. Managed to lose my water bleed screw when filling up my coolant. Anyone know where I can source another in the UK? Struggling to find one.
Part number 931-106-156-01
If anyone knows any stores or want ideas for where to search it’s greatly appreciated

Just did an oil change on my '84, something I'm not yet used to do since it's my first car, and I don't know what to think about this.

The oil itself was in pretty good shape, no metallic deposit in there, but that's what the magnet looked like.

How much metal is not normal after a 10k kilometers oil change ?

Just picked up a 944 S a couple months ago and needed a second key. I was looking around at all the 917 style keys from Rennline, Project Silverlake, etc and didn’t like what I saw for the price point so I decided to make my own. This is a 2 piece key with a pure copper head, Nickel-Silver blade, and exposed hardware. Thinking of selling blanks for 944’s and 911’s!

FCP Euro @ Lime Rock event

I’m restoring an early 944 and while getting it back on the road is a ways out, I know I need to already start the search for a rear window tint shop 😅 any chance anyone has a place in/near ish to Atlanta GA that has tinted one of your windows, did a good job, and not so long ago the dude is probably retired?

The other day I was accelerating to beat a yellow before I thought better of it. Under emergency braking the pedal went to the floor and I came to a soft stop under braking power. The brakes felt and functioned normally both before and since then, even when I tested under some hard braking, but needless to say I want to trust the brakes will be there in an emergency. I stopped in the crosswalk and if there had been a person or a car in front of me I would have hit them.

What could cause this? Maybe some kind of vacuum issue with the brake master cylinder? The brake fluid level is at max though the reservoir is at somewhat of an angle. I know low brake fluid can get air in the system under hard braking but it doesn't feel like there's air in the system.

It's super strange the brakes feel totally normal now but went to the floor that one time. Any ideas of what I should check?

The cam gear is aligned but when looking at my flywheel it just doesn’t seem to have any marks on it. From the top it’s literally impossible to make anything out, and then from the bottom of the flywheel it doesn’t seem to have any markings. I pulled the plugs and am just looking at the top of the #1 piston. When the cam gear is aligned #1 is exactly at the top. Is that enough?