I saw all the posts, had it on my to do list, and have nobody to blame but myself. Just get them replaced!

I’m thankful nobody else was around or involved, god dang speed bump took me out.

I also see this random bracket not attached to anything I’m assuming it’s the culprit, any advice on what parts I’ll need?

Picked this 1997 Hilux Surf SSR-G 1KZ-TE 5M/T this weekend! Im in love, ive had a 97 and 98 4runner, never the Surf! Worst thing about the RHD is the blinker is on the right hand side now. I cant tell you how many times I turned my wipers on by muscle memory... 🤣

Is this a big problem changed hoses and radiator about 2500 miles ago

Almost at 200k! Up to date on all routine maintenance. Recently started feeling a weird scraping/rubbing under my right wheel well every few tire rotations. Any ideas?

Could this noise be brake booster failing? Was driving and noticed brake pedal felt softer. Feels like I got air in lines.

This is after a lot of time with the scotch-brite pad and WD-40, but Timmy the Toolman's looked like factory.

Hi,

I recently had the transfer actuator die on my '02 SR5 & this repair was beyond my capabilities. No user error, nothing. Just decided to die.

My 4Runner was turned into a 2Runner. Given I'd added Bilsteins, new UCAs, etc this just you know, hurt bad. Not that I'm looking to sell, but pretty much any value in the vehicle, beyond separated parts, felt like it vanished overnight.

Obviously, LBJs, the timing belt/water pump, head gasket failures are all potentially if not usually catastrophic, but...I'm just gonna throw out there the transfer actuator might be up there in terms of pain. It doesn't kill the vehicle, it just removes the one feature that defines the character of the 4WD 4Runner.

Not to mention the expense of the parts & labor -- f'ing yikes. And at least in my area, the availability of the OEM part was nearly non existent.

Anyway, if I'm voting the most painful/unfortunate repair, it's this.

In for a penny, in for a pound with these vehicles. I went ahead and did it. Woof.

The shop is taking apart the old actuator to see why it failed & if they can rebuild it, they're just going to give it to me.

Hi! I am looking for advice on the best lift brand to use to redo the suspension on my 2000 sr5. It has 127k miles on it and is basically in brand new condition. I got it from a family who's grandma had driven it since it came from factory, garage kept. It is very much my dream car to build so I want to do everything the best I can to protect its longevity. I have looked into so many different brands of all different price ranges but am having a hard time finding what the best set up would be. I would like to get upper control arms, a 2.5 inch- to 3 inch lift (I would prefer 3inch). I would prefer to do it all myself so would prefer an easy brand to install. As well any advice on parts I should replace with it.

Basically title - to avoid an accident earlier from someone running a red, I had to basically full brake from low speed like less than 10mph. Shook the whole car forward as I stopped but seemed fine until I got up to 60+mph it was shaking a bit and when I had to slow down it now violently shakes. Any ideas where to start before I begin dissecting?

Who has the hot tip on where to get the best deal on a pair of LBJs?

Much thanks in advance

I own a 1996 4 runner 6v.
And I was doing some off roading and spun out and crashed, I bent my pinion and my rack. And apparently my sub rack as well. All my research says it's gonna be a pricey fix. I really don't want a shop to do it, I have moderate experience work I mt on cars, Is it even worth trying to fix? Car is worth like 2800$, so I can't put a huge amount of money into it. Anything helps!

Want to see the way people trim or alter the fat lip front bumper

3rd gen 4Runner. I was just cruising on the freeway going 60 when rpms dropped to 0, and the lights for VSC OFF, VSC TRAC OFF, and oil pressure went on. I checked engine oil level and it’s correct with no leaks under the car. No CEL either. Car would crank but won’t start. Timing belt was done in Feb. Has anyone dealt with this before or have suggestions on what it could be?

**UPDATE - I checked EFI fuse 20A and it was blown. I put in another and tried to start the car and it blew too.

Just took off my doors to repaint them, and wouldn’t putting on my rear passenger side door the hinge began scraping the door. I checked to see if any of the screws were crossed threaded, and they were not. Does anyone have a solution or reason why this would be happening and way to fix it as I do not want it to rust there. I was thinking, bumping the mount with a mallet or something to try and move it, but I want to see if anyone else had this problem before

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this quirk with their 4Runners. 2000 4WD SR5 with 250k miles, has CEL P0420 for possible bad cat, or o2 sensor, tends to have a slight sloppiness when starting up after being driven for a while, and that’s my question. I wouldn’t describe it as sputtering exactly because it doesn’t bog out, or not fire up just seems like the initial combustion cycle on warm starts sounds and feels a little sloppy. So has anyone else experienced this and what has it turned out to be for yall? Let me know, thanks!

Whats this chatter? Best heared from under the truck. It has a bad transmission could that be a factor?

When I first heared it I was immediately concerned it was a knock but its not really coming from the lower end

Hey everyone! A few days ago I posted asking for questions about what to look for in a 3rd Gen 4Runner as I was going up to Maine to look at one. I just got back from looking at it and taking a test drive, and here's what I've uncovered.

The car was originally a Florida car, and then it was shipped up to PA/New England about 5 or so years ago. It's been owned by a mechanic so he had the undercarriage oil filmed every winter so there is minimal rusting on the frame.

The rockers are completely shot on this car, but I live in a state where inspections aren't required so while I would get them replaced in the next few months, it isn't an immediate "need to get this done". (Also, I have a buddy who works in automotive so he's helping me replace them).

From the test drive, I got it up to about 30 miles an hour on a bumpy road and didn't hear any noises and it drives perfectly straight. All electronics work as well, currently it's stuck in RWD and they told me it needs a transfer case switch in order for it to be able to shift into 4WD. This car has the automatic transmission, and shifts smoothly.

I've attached a couple photos of the rocker panels as well as the frame, and if anyone sees any major red flags out the gate, please let me know as I'm seriously considering placing an offer on this vehicle. Thank you so much guys! You've been a massive help in my research/search for a 4Runner!

Hey guys! So looking at getting a 3rd gen 4Runner. Here’s the specs

97 Toyota 4Runner Limited 2WD with 204k miles on it with a Clean Title. 3.4L V6 Automatic. The timing belt was just done at 194k miles.

Paint is not perfect and the front driver and passenger seats have tears in the leather. There is a weird paint texture on the driver side like it was spray painted or something.

Underneath is completely dry, there was 1 small speck of maybe oil or transmission fluid but it was 1 drop, I wiped it and took it for a drive when I got back there was nothing.

Seemed to drive pretty good, it’s a boat so when I floored it, it was going but took a few more seconds to really reach a faster speed.

When I turn all the way like a full U-turn till the tires won’t turn anymore there’s like a loud click/clunk. Guy said it was something that was a small part to replace.

It’s an older car and I get that it’s gonna have some quirks and things, but seems all there.

The last owners owned for 18 years and now this lil dealership is selling it. I’m gonna get a pre purchase inspection for sure,

Should I get it? 7300 out the door with taxes and registration.

Any extra questions I should ask?

On his 3rd gen headgaket replacement video, Timmy the Toolman uses a silicone form-in-place gasket (from Toyota) for the heater bypass, instead of the factory $7 gasket. Admittedly, there isn't that much pressure involved, so maybe either would work, but any idea why?