eg4 recommend 3awg...would I need a thicker wire?

Im out of words after I saw this, the bend angle, the routing, the mixture of cables, lugs and everything in between. My understanding is that for parallel setup every thing must be same.

Also are the SPD supposed to be daisy chained like this, AC IN, AC Out, and PV SPD?

I have some of those lower quality red tab flip Breakers ive seen folks use on the YouTube for projects from when I was just beginning and wanting to test. Now im setting up a couple of small mkre permanent projects, and those things are 30 amps but often trip below 20 amps if its even a bit warm out. Not even in tbe sun.

After receiving the item I now see the Amazon reviews and YouTube comments on this battery often being shipped this way.

I contacted the seller and they are giving me the run around demanding pix and saying I need to pay for return shipping.

Amazon says if they don't pay for shipping I will get a refund and get to keep the battery.

Since they sent me and many others bad batteries I thought I'm going to crack this open and check the battery and cell voltage. Pack voltage is 4v.

I bypassed the BMS and I brought it back to life using a variable power supply.

I charged it up to about 11v or so. Then started using the BMS to charge it up the rest of the way.

I was able to get the app working but that was a hassle to. It kept updating and failing over and over.

Anyways I charged it to 100 soc. Then immediately drained it with a load tester at 20amps. It came in at 98% of stated capacity.

One other thing is that the BMS kept kicking off at about 62amps while charging.

The listing claimed 100and charge and discharge rates

What do you guys think? Think this battery will be good?

Hi, all. I'm finding this sub to be a great resource for the solar neophyte. Thanks to everyone.

I live in Vegas, the Mojave Desert. I've been thinking about placing batteries and an inverter in a 400 sq. ft. shed, but it's a hot box in the desert sun. I also have a something akin to a trellis, although with a solid roof where I can install those items.

I'd hate to think I have to use a/c in the shed to avoid heat problems with the batteries or inverter. What are the practical considerations to avoid issues when installing these systems in desert structures?

I have this battery and Victron equipment. I don't know how to tell the Victron when the battery is fully charged. Isn't it by voltage? The battery manual specs nominal voltage and charge voltage but not the voltage it should be at when fully charged. Does anyone know? Thank you.

Deye vs Victron for a 48V home battery system?

I'm trying to decide between Victron and Deye for my home energy setup.

(I recently bought a 64 kWh 48V LiFePO battery bank (4 × 16 kWh modules))

My main goal is to charge the battery from solar during the day and once the battery is full, export any excess solar to the grid. (max 12kw) and at night when electricity prices are high discharge part of the battery and sell back to the grid.

For Victron, I'd be looking at something like

3 × MultiPlus-II 5000w + Cerbo GX MK2 + SmartShunt and at least 3 × SmartSolar 250/100 MPPTs

That puts the total around €3,500–4,000.

On the other hand, a Deye SUN-20K-SG05LP3-eu-sm2 seems to do almost everything I need in a single unit for roughly half the price, although Victron appears to have a more advanced ecosystem and monitoring.

For those who have experience with both, which would you choose?

Appreciate a lot for any answers!

I rarely post here but im going nuts by brainstorming this setup

Hi All,

I have a largish 5 x 5.5m flat roof on my garden room that is EPDM sealed.

I don't trust the rafters to hold ballast at all - I need to minimise weight so the weight of the panels is enough. I think therefore that I'm going to have to go down the route of fixing through the EPDM and sealing - ideally with fixings with multiple screws per fixing point as I'll be tieing to the 18mm OSB roof, and won't necessarily hit the rafter / joist each time. I understand there are systems out there designed specifically for this purpose.

OK, so I'm DIYing... does anyone have experience of doing this successfully, no leaks, and without spending a small fortune on the mounting gear? I would rather buy something designed for the purpose than fabricate, so I know there will be cash involved, but I'm looking for something that is going to be straightforward for DIY install and a decent range of DIY tools...

help!

Hi,

I am planning to create a watt monitor for some of my devices connected to my my battery in my van such as lights. I want to use ACS37041 to monitor current and just use battery voltage to calculate watts. I don't thing a voltage drop will be a problem.

Does anyone have experience with it? Do you recommend something else perhaps?

Thanks

It takes a while but you can definitely charge your EV with solar. My use case: 2,400 watts of solar (1,200 on the roof and 1,200 on the ground (only 600 in this vid)), running through a 5kWh battery buffer that exports up to 7,200 watts of 240V AC to a level 2 charger set at 20 amps (4,800 watts) as I don't want to overtax the inverter.

​Fully charged, with 2,400 watts in and 4,800 watts out, the 5 kWh battery buffer should last just over 2 hours at this rate, pushing roughly 9.6 kWh into the traction battery before hitting empty. (This is of course the best case scenario. I recognize I'll rarely, if ever, generate a full 2,400 watts of solar and there will be system losses along the way.)

I'd love to hear thoughts on how to improve / optimize this setup.

Hello DIYers,

I was wondering if there is a solar disconnect device that can be controlled via Wi-Fi.

The weather has been consistently clear lately, so the 16kwh battery often gets fully charged during the day.

Sometimes, it is already fully charged in the middle of the day.

I think it would be a bad situation for keeping the battery healthy.

If such a device does not exist, what solution would you recommend for this situation?

Thank you in advance!

I had a company do a bad install. Mounting feet were not set into roof rafters, but instead the decking. Anyone know if there are replacement mounts that can sufficiently be mounted to decking instead of the rafters, so that the mount locations/flashing can stay in the same spot?

I had solar installed a few weeks ago , everything working great so far. The array is ground-mounted, about 150 feet from my house, running off microinverters (enphase) with a buried cable. When the contractors filled-in the trench, I tossed in a run of armored fiber optic cable so I could setup a little network stack down by the panels. I am a dumbass though: I figured I could connect to the breaker panel at the array so didn't run a second electric wire, plus direct buried instead of using conduit. End result is a nice piece of fiber next to a power source that can't power it.

I have no interest in re-digging the 24' trench, so I'm looking for off-grid options. My though right now is to build something like a small raised [chicken coop](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSkSxJwDfO3K1RZ1t52yfkvYOk-7b8R0ACG7WFrp304ZnBwAgB2kOOxA7Q&s=10) beside the array, put my network stack in there, add a heated lifepo battery, charge controller, inverter, and a solar panel for the roof. I'd be powering an SFP/ethernet [switch](https://www.amazon.ca/Port-2-5G-Managed-1x-SFP/dp/B0CNGLG54S/), an outdoor AP, a lora node, and possibly one of those ubiquiti dish antennas for beaming signal across a big open space. I think it'd be 30W of draw at the high-end.

I need a custom shape for a flexible solar panel.

A cell must be cut from it.

May I do that? I am aware that the entire string (not the entire panel) will become unusable.

What happens if I cut it? The panel is 19V, 100W.

What should I do after cutting the cell? Should I glue something?

I have my solar (with battery bank) running to a transfer switch in my house. It doesnt run much, but it has the well pump, 2 refrigerators, and the lights in 2 rooms on it. Whenever the well pump kicks on, the lights dim/flicker similar to in a lot of houses whenever a central AC kicks on. But it lasts longer than that, like prob a half second instead of the near instant with an AC. Is this normal? Is my pumpbat risk? All the lights affected are dimmable LED if that matters. Inverter is a 6000xp.

Can I have a larger wattage system that pushes the maximum amount of watts all day long? For instance, my State allows up to 1200w balcony solar. Because of cloudy days and other issues I will not get 1200 watts all day long. Can I have a 4000 watt system that maxes out at 1200w more constantly?

EDIT: Prayers answered. Sun beamed, humidity dropped, contrary to weather forecast. Job done, though it was a bit tricky because the negative tails on the panels were awful short. Anyway, thanks for the answers.

I want to connect some MC4 plugs and it's set to rain all week, except today, but even today looking at an overcast afternoon with 75% humidity. Is this too humid to make a safe connection? I'm switching out the plugs on the panels to staubli evo2 and panels so can't bring the cables inside.

Purchased this battery 8 years ago. I have it connected to 100w / 12v monocrystalline solar panel and a 30A PWM controller. Is this still the best option:

https://a.co/d/06USIzIE

UPDATE: this is for my chicken coop, and the power is used to operate my door, cameras, and charge phones, etc.

I have been slowly picking away at my solar project. Panels on roof, with proper mounts. I am going to run the conduit through attic into the garage tomorrow and I have been mulling over the Tigo rapid shutdown injector location. I am also installing DC breakers to also be my Solar disconnect switch. I had a thought, if I put the injector after the breaker/DC disconnect, if the breaker pops or I shut off the breaker. the signal would be cut off as well to the rapid shutdown so I would be mechanically disconnecting and causing the per panel rapid shutdown.

Now I am not talking about the AC side, I am talking about the injector on the PV cable, if I have a DC breaker/mechanical disconnect switch, any reason why the injector should be before or after the disconnect? Like I said, seems like having the rapid shutdown take down the panels when the breaker pops or disconnect initiated would make sense.

So Like this,

Panel--through roof in EMT---DC Breaker/Disconnect----Tigo Injector---inverter

Or like this,

Panel--through roof in EMT---Tigo Injector---DC Breaker/Disconnect----inverter

Bom dia pessoal, estou com esse problema na minha casa eu tenho um sistema identico e funciona muito bem. Nessa outra casa apenas troquei o “fornecedor” da bateria porem ela seria compativel com o Deye e oa feedbacks são positivos”.

Porem nao consigo de jeito nenhum fazer funciona-la.

O inversor funciona perfeitamente porem quando ativo a bateria seja litium seja V ele vai pra stand by

Bom dia pessoal, estou com esse problema na minha casa eu tenho um sistema identico e funciona muito bem. Nessa outra casa apenas troquei o “fornecedor” da bateria porem ela seria compativel com o Deye e oa feedbacks são positivos”.

Porem nao consigo de jeito nenhum fazer funciona-la.

O inversor funciona perfeitamente porem quando ativo a bateria seja litium seja V ele vai pra stand by

I have a very small system to install. Only 2 panels that are roughly 48” square each. I want to install a mounting rail system that will allow changes and upgrades to the system. It will be roof mounted and I want to install mounting brackets and seal the roof penetrations once, then modify the rails mounted those brackets as needed. I was planning on just using Unistrut because that’s what I’m accustomed to using. But Unistrut is expensive and heavy unless I buy vinyl or aluminum which is more expensive.

I started looking online for solutions and found solar panel mounting rails that look like just the sort of thing I need, and appear to be less expensive. However I have no experience installing these things o I need a pretty precise guide to the parts I need.

These panels will be mounted on what appears to be a shed with a sloped roof that is on a mountain top ands sees winds around 60 mph several times a year.

Can someone experienced with these types of systems please refer me to a brand/model/style that I can search and get a comprehensive sort of exploded view of the parts I need? Thank you in advance.

I currently am cross shopping subpanels and inverters. I’m looking at the current sungold deals and for an extra $1000 I think the 11.4kw hybrid inverter paired with a 16kwh yixiang battery pack would be a good option for me as we have power outages multiple times a month and having an automatic switch to battery power is personally valuable since im not always around. Grid power is only $0.15/kw here and I dont know if we will live here more than 5-6 years so I don’t really think we will see a payoff in roof solar, but I am planning a carport and chicken coops that I wouldnt mind putting a few panels on just to run electric fencing for predators and 1-3kw charging to a 3.6kw ecoflow delta pro i have. But if i got the hybrid inverter I could charge to the home battery instead.

Would it make more sense to just get a 48V split phase inverter for $1600 + $400 for a subpanel and have no solar at all? Or spend the extra $1000 on the hybrid inverter and permitting to put it between the grid and the 200A house breaker?

I'd like to put solar panels on my house, where do ya'll get your panels from? Whats a good brand? what's reliable? What's modern? inversely, what isn't, so I know what to avoid? I know the whole industry is growing very fast and the technology is becoming more efficient so I'm just trying to get more information to make a well informed decision.

I wanted to share this finished project!

Thanks to a lot of input and advice from folks in this sub I was able to build a floating power supply in the middle of Alaska’s Tongass National Forest. It’s now happily powering a set of underwater salmon counting video cameras and beaming all the data back to town. So far it has counted over 40,000 sockeye salmon passing upriver and is allowing for sustainable salmon harvest.

Thank you all for helping me figure out how to put this project together!

And for anyone wondering why it’s on floats…..bears destroy everything they touch……🐻