Decided to stick with the Lasfit mats. I think they are holding up well and I clean the truck weekly and they still look like the day I got them. If anyone is on the fence I’d definitely think about checking these out when trying to pick mats. Just my opinion.

I’m looking for aluminum valve covers for my 2016 Ford F-150 2.7L EcoBoost. Mine has the factory plastic valve covers, and I’d rather replace them with aluminum so I don’t have to worry about them cracking again.
I’ve searched everywhere but can only find aluminum covers for the 3.5L EcoBoost or 5.0. Has anyone actually found aluminum valve covers that fit the 2.7L EcoBoost?

Got the dreaded low oil pressure alert so I swapped the switch. Nobody local had an OEM and I was trying to get it back home. I cleaned the pigtail out. Worked for about 45 seconds then the alarm comes back on and white smoke starts pouring out of the exhaust. Got my driver side turbo pulled last night, impeller definitely made contact. Wet oil in the exhaust also. Soooo where should I start tracking for the low pressure? This is a 2017 3.5 4WD Lariat with 202k miles on it.

I’m looking for aluminum valve covers for my 2016 Ford F-150 2.7L EcoBoost. Mine has the factory plastic valve covers, and I’d rather replace them with aluminum so I don’t have to worry about them cracking again.
I’ve searched everywhere but can only find aluminum covers for the 3.5L EcoBoost or 5.0. Has anyone actually found aluminum valve covers that fit the 2.7L EcoBoost?

Has anyone else had this issue. I have a 2024 XL with the 2.7. When I am cruising at 65 mph or so in 10th gear and need to accelerate, I feel a hesitation/vibration and after a few seconds, vibration goes away and I get up to speed. Of course driving with the Ford "technician" to duplicate and having it happen 6-7 times but amazingly he is unable to feel it.

Has anyone else’s F150 made this sound before? If so any ideas? Does it when I’m accelerating

2014 Ford f150 3.5 eb

I am replacing the front struts and rear shocks with kyb to get a quick assembly instead of dealing with compressing coils.

I want to put in an OE like replacement kyb and also leveled.

Anyone has an feedback about this quick strut?

Also the way this looks in the picture this should be with a leveling kit?

Engine knocking on start up. Only happens when engine is cold. After a second of knocking, noise goes away. Is it timing belt, cam phaser?

2017 3.5, 75k miles.

I’m considering adding the Ford tune. Has anyone upgraded their ecoboost with it.
Is it worth it?

Reaching out to the community in case anyone has experienced this and can share what their diagnosis/fix was.

Vehicle: 2021 F150 2.7L eco boost w/ 90k miles

Rattling sound on startup. Sometimes it goes away after 30 seconds, sometimes not. Google led me to suspect the turbo waste gate linkages, but manipulating those didn’t change the noise. Rattles faster when revving. With my head under the car, the noise is suspiciously loudest near the bell housing of the transmission. Drives like it always has(other than the noise) and is throwing no codes.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Edit: replacing the starter fixed the noise. Old starter had a bunch of play on the throw out axis. Contacts were quite corroded as well.

Suspected contributing factors: beach driving, start stop, not enough underside washes

I have a 2019 f150 3.5 ecoboost. 172k miles. Last night the engine started making this awful noise. The truck does have the raddle start up but was never like this at idle in the past. Is this a cam phaser or a spun rod bearing?

Picked up a new truck to me about 3 weeks ago 113,000 . Am I looking at a newer turbo on passenger side ,all shiny and clean.

Just had an oil change at the Ford dealer and noticed my skid plate is full of fresh oil because it looks like they didn’t even remove it when changing the filter.

The bigger concern is the drain plug. It looks like it was over-torqued, the head is starting to round off with fresh metal exposed obviously due to being hit with an impact wrench. Fresh metal would not be shown if it was torqued to the spec of 20ft-lbs.

I also noticed what look like hairline cracks around the drain plug on the aluminum oil pan (see photos).

Do these actually look like cracks, or could they just be casting marks? If they are cracks, could over-torquing the drain plug cause this?

2022 F150 3.5L Ecoboost.

We bought our truck in 2024 with 47k miles on it since purchasing, we have replaced the driver side turbo twice. (And we found out that it had been replaced just before we purchased it, which was not disclosed to us before the sale). So 3 turbo replacements, all driver side, all in 70k miles. It just went out AGAIN (77k miles) we had it towed to the shop that repaired it 6 months ago, they said we needed to bring it to Ford as they guarantee their parts for repair within a certain window and we're in it.

We bring it to Ford, let them know its a parts warranty repair, they immediately tell us "well we have to charge you $190 for diagnostics because our guys need to get paid" I said okay, they call back a few days later and say "it's actually the passenger side turbo this time." (Which I feel is a cop out to not have to cover the repair for free, but really at this point that's just a small additional issue.)

I feel at this point (4 turbos in 77k miles) regardless of side, this is unacceptable and there is a larger underlying issue that Ford is failing to address. We've spent (even with our after market warranty) $2500 in repairs in the past year just on turbos. I don't want to pay for another without a root cause being determined just for it to go again in another 5k miles.

I am wondering if anyone here has had success getting something like this escalated within Ford corporate? Our local dealer doesn't really seem to be willing to help on this.

2011 f150 ecoboost lariat

Want to know if anyone has knowledge on this issue. Truck runs fine just for some reason the tachometer has a 3000 rpm head start. It rests at 0 when vehicle is off angler starting it stays around 3.5-3.7k at idle. It was working fine not too long ago. Truck has 206k miles. Recently serviced spark plugs myself and broke a cracked a plastic vacuum hose in the process so it threw out a P0234. I have since fixed and cleared the codes. The rpm head start started like 2 weeks after. Not sure if there a correlation there just the only thing I could think of where I touched the engine bay. Anything helps thanks🙏🏾

Does this sound like an exhaust leak at the turbo/cat connection? If so, what are the chances the gasket can be replaced without removing the turbo and doing everything from underneath? This is the passenger side

I’m looking to change the Turbocharger Boost Relief Valve or bypass valve, whatever you want to call it. Ford says they don’t sell that part individually for the 1.6L and id have to buy the whole turbo to get that part. On the 2.0L you can buy just the part which is **CJ5Z-9U465-A. They look identical and I saw a YouTube video that the guy put in a 2.0L part on his 2013 1.6L and it worked. Has anyone had this issue?**

I’m looking to change the Turbocharger Boost Relief Valve or bypass valve, whatever you want to call it. Ford says they don’t sell that part individually for the 1.6L and id have to buy the whole turbo to get that part. On the 2.0L you can buy just the part which is **CJ5Z-9U465-A. They look identical and I saw a YouTube video that the guy put in a 2.0L part on his 2013 1.6L and it worked. Has anyone had this issue?**