Back in the 70’s and 80’s (I was there) climbing was a fringe sport, partly because was actually dangerous, and partly because climbers smelled like garlic and canned pasta. Then came the sport climbing revolution and the sport exploded because the odds of getting seriously hurt were much less. Next came bouldering were you can try as hard as you want with as little danger as you want. With that came a HUGE industry boost and HUGE increase in difficulty, and eventually the Olympics (for better or worse).

I climbed through all that. I was amazed at the difficulty of climbs I could hone from the comfort of my ass parked on a soft cushion. I transferred that to boulders and climbs that inspired me, risking injury only when properly motivated.

Modern gyms are a step backwards. I went to the gym yesterday and noticed a toxic pattern: 3-5 trivial moves, followed by a desperate throw or jump or insecure slippy/poppy move at the top. Seriously, WTF? Are y’all testing the limits of your waiver and insurance? Are you living in a fantasy world where every problem needs to be Olympic style parkour climbing? There was not a single problem with 2 moves that I could/had to work without having my feet more than 2m off the ground.

Even worse is the steep cave situation where working a problem means a 1.5 to 2 back splat. Where are the Martini Roof simulators, the Witness the Fitness simulators.

Seriously, we need more lowballs. I’m talking a nearly horizontal roof 1.5m off a very soft pad so we do crazy bicycle kneebar figure 4s with 0 consequences.

Source is claraclimbs_ on insta.

serious question, if i ask this in other subs, it will get deleted or hated on or people telling me "climbing gym is not the place for dating" bla bla. im just asking a simple question, thats why i post it here. i believe in you guys

I overheard someone at the gym saying Alex flashed a Baby? And gave it some cake?

Anyone know more about this? I can’t say I’m surprised but I want to know more about it.

I’ve been climbing with my rope for about 25 years now this morning when I was doing a safety check I found these weird little egg looking things on it. Is it safe to climb on?

So I’ve been climbing for 10 days and since day three I consistently flash V14 indoors.

I have only worn hiking boots because these rental shoes only had childish colors.

Now I have been looking into my first pair of climbing shoes since my foot slips on V15 sometimes.

Do you think the Scarpa Black Bird is the right choice?

What is wrong with them? Don't they know this is my stage? Why aren't they making a better stage for me?

Everyone has been calling me a Gumby, so I found a pair of climbing shoes named after me.

Aside from the mediocre setting, thanks Movement for blocking off half the gym every week for the Boulder club

Rate my FA of this sick deep water red bull solo clif bar black diamond north face