can’t find a picture but I suspect [PlastiDip’s standard blue](https://shop.plastidip.com/products/plasti-dip-can?variant=49130129097006) is going to be noticeably too light. These are kind of a cobalt blue.

My thought is mix black with it (ratio tbd) or maybe even just go black (cue the jokes).

I have some older wheels that the clear is starting to fail but it isn't cost effective to get them refinished nor replace. They are actually in nice shape for 22yo. Is there a clear that I could use to go over what is there already to help protect it or slow down/stop what is happening?

What would be the best product...if any?

Thanks

I wasn’t certain if I would like the blue, but I figured since plastidip is cheap and easy to remove it would be worth a try, and I’m incredibly happy with how it looks, the dark blue pairs so well with the white while not being super obnoxiously flashy.

My only issue was that I had a bit of a struggle getting the front left wheel back on the car, and I ended up damaging some of the dip. fortunately it was on the black section of the original two-tone wheels, so it’s not at all noticeable unless you look closely. That being said I think I will order another spray can at some point and redo that wheel. I may also get a clear coat to put over it to make the finish a bit shinier.

the color is supermarine blue from dipyourcar.com

I plasti dipped the side panel bumper things probably 6 years ago. It’s held up well but needs to be refinished.

Whats the best way to go about this? Is it worth to invest trying to remove the old stuff? Or can I just give it a good cleaning and spray over?

TL;DR: I tried to plastidip my cars emblem and it didn’t peel off cleanly.

I did about 5 coats of plastidip on this emblem, waiting 30 minutes in between each coat, and then let it sit after the last coat for about 20 hours (may have been too long). The car was sitting in an enclosed garage at about room temp as well so I don’t think it could be the heat.

What went wrong? I’d appreciate any advice on peeling it off for when I try it again, cause it kind of just tore apart this time (assuming it’s because I probably went too fast when peeling it off?).

First time dipping rims. Overall pleased with the outcome. Prepped the wheel but clearly missed a corner. Possible to fix the corner without coating the entire wheel?

Had some black plasti-dip cans my coworker gave me a while ago just lying around, so tried my hand at some free DIY eyelids. this car is getting older so i'm ok with trying out DIY projects but not sure how I feel about the result.

I would have preferred white but have heard it can yellow in UV light. Took me barely an hour and some masking tape. I'll see if it grows on me but at least it's reversible. Tried to line up the hood lines where they meet the headlight housings.

First off, I’ll say I highly recommend the DYC systems and products. It was easy for me, someone who has never even held a paint sprayer before.

I threw this car together over the last year and it was 4 different colors. After going over the options of wrap, paint, DYC or just leaving it, we settled on DYC. The price is good, the support and videos are good. So we gave it a shot.

First thing I tried was hanging up sheeting in the garage. After seeing the stuff swaying around just from me walking by it, I knew I was just setting myself up for failure. So I decided to try the old Amazon inflatable paint booth. Much to my surprise, it worked amazingly. The positive pressure fan and exhaust vents kept all the paint inside, and we didnt have a speck of paint on the driveway when we were done!

For the actual process, we went with black base, dark purple pearl and dip armor, as this is a track car and will be dirty, worked on, greasy hand prints, all of that.

The base black and the pearl topcoat went on so smooth! My wife even stepped on the air hose to the sprayer at one point and the gun just sneezed paint on the fender in a massive splatter. It immediately leveled and you couldn’t even see it after the next coat. Same for the pearl, we mixed all the gallons into 5 gallon buckets, and just filled the sprayer from that bucket to save time.

Then came the dip armor. And this is where the struggle starts. After spraying the base and pearl, you kind of get into a habit, as I’m 10 coats in at the point (6 base black, 4 pearl). And I watched the dip armor videos over and over, so from what I could tell I just needed to move faster.

Well, I didnt move fast enough. As you can see by the pics, we had runs, everywhere. The dip armor is very very thin, and we weren’t ready. I thought I just ruined my whole day and wasted money.

So, defeated, I let the car sit overnight in the booth, and contacted DYC. I spoke with the guys there, and they suggested to let the car cure for 48 hours, then wet sand from 400-1000 grit to get the runs out. This seemed like a big task, as I’ve never done anything like this before.

So I got papers, a spray bottle and went to work after the cure. As you can see in the photo with all the white dust, it was a task for sure. I sanded all the runs as best I could, and got them 90% of the way smooth, I didn’t want to get into the pearl, so I erred on the side of caution.

Got the car all cleaned back up, got another dip armor kit, and back in the booth the next weekend.

Sprayed 2 coats of dip armor, with the gun turned almost all the way down, and moving faster. It came out much better, filled a lot of the run areas, and the whole car had a smoother finish after hitting the whole car with 800 grit on a DA. You can still see some remnants of the runs (last pic) if you’re in just the right light and angle. But under normal viewing angles, it looks perfect!

TL:DR - Dip Armor is a completely different product from the dip coats and needs to be treated as such.

Things I wish I would have done differently now:
1) remove mirrors, on my car (2000 mustang) there is not good coverage of coats right beside a below the mirrors, because of the weird angle. I should have took them off.

2) buy a second roll of tape and drape. It’s enough to do the car if you’ve done it a bunch of times and don’t overlap, but if you’re taping a car for the first time, you’ll immediately realize you didn’t need to use that much, because of how much it unfolds lol

Overall, good experience, would recommend, and I would definitely do it again if I wanted to do another car in the fleet!

Has anyone used this? If so thoughts? Just leased a new vehicle and didn’t want to go all out for PPF. Thought this might be a good alternative.

https://shop.plastidip.com/products/paint-protection-film?srsltid=AfmBOopmHHpAnz6EH2qFp7TEpCD3FYnInBjg4Qps1BRw7yqMYKsbe8XN

I want to chrome delete my grille. I was in between using vinyl or plasti dip. If anyone has experience with using plasti dip could you please let me know how it has held up?

More pictures

I learned a lot working over my 1980 Corvette. I made my own dipyourcar kit using Lava Red, mixed with a tiny bit of Black Cherry to get a richer color for my base, Carbon Red pearl, and their Ultra High Gloss kit to finish it all off.

First thing I learned is I am not a body man. Every single imperfection I left was immediately visible when the car was a single color again. Whoever owned it before me did not care about it at all and it shows.

The base colors mix just fine, so if you want to create your own take on something, have at it. From the pictures on DYC Lava Red looked really weak and faded. Thats what I was starting with so I knew I wanted it to be something a little darker. I got some of their samples and one of the nifty glass jars with the aerosol can on top and used that to get an idea of what I wanted. Thats the red splotches on the hood in some of the pictures. If you do that test and the results makes you worry about texturing, dont be. The aerosol can sucks at making an even coat with plastidip. Mine was about like sandpaper. I found that for the final color I wanted 1/4 oz of Black Cherry per gallon of Lava. Once I had some coats on I bumped it to 1/2 oz. I think 1oz wouldve even been acceptable to get that nice corvette red. I struggled to get some of my test spots off the car before I painted. Chlorinated brake clean lifted it immediately. I cant speak to how it might interact with paint you actually care about, but it worked in seconds for me.

Start to finish, it took me 12 hours of painting, including breaks to cool off, lunch, and time between coats. By the time I was done I was so tired of painting that it led to some negligence with the gloss kit. So be ready for the time commitment, I anticipated it taking much less time. FWIW I think in total I got 8 coats of base on this car with 3 gallons of Lava. I also expected to break it up over a couple of days and do the Ultra High Gloss 24 hours later as described in one of their tutorial videos. During one of my breaks I called to get clarification on time between coats and I believe I spoke with Fonzie, the owner of DYC. He didnt identify himself and I didnt ask, but I had listened to his voice in hours of tutorials so Im pretty confident. He seemed just as genuine and helpful as he is in the videos. He told me that they have revised that time to 2 hours of drying between the pearl coat and the gloss coat. Apparently, dust was settling on the paint and getting under the clear coat of peoples projects.

The paint went on beautifully. I couldnt be happier with how it looked, both the pearl and the base coats looked good and didnt run on me. Dont forget to cover your mufflers! I did and I still need to clean them off...

When they say to move fast with the Ultra High Gloss, they mean it. I have several runs I need to deal with on my car because I didnt go fast enough. Part of that is due to the frustration youll see in the next paragraph with my floor covering. Even still, after 12 hours of painting for the first time I developed an amount of muscle memory and it didnt want to be changed. If its your first time applying this stuff, you probably arent moving quick enough. Side note, the paint has some decent fumes, youll want a respirator for sure. The clear coat....itll asphyxiate you, you NEED a respirator.

I was a little too cheap and this caused me a couple headaches. I used plastic sheeting for a floor cover. This worked well for the regular painting project, but did not work very well for the Ultra High Gloss. That stuff starts drying as soon as it comes out of the gun. ANY overspray becomes immediately tacky. Every step I took I was like a fly on fly paper dragging the plastic around with me. After nearly 12 hours, I was tired, frustrated with this new development, and trying to keep the plastic off of me and the car. I only bought 1 set of "heavy duty" disposable coveralls from Menards. I shouldve gotten 2 or even 3. Lastly, the gun. I shouldve gotten the good one. I spent all this money on paint and it couldve looked a little bit better with the better gun.

Overall, Im very happy with the result, any issue I have with it is self-inflicted. The car has looked like trash the whole time Ive owend it. Previous owners ran it through a fence, crumpled the corners of the body behind the front bumper, covered any scratches and scars with the wrong color of red nail polish... I wanted to wear a hat and sunglasses any time I drove to hide my identity. Now, it might not be perfect, but it looks amazing at a distance and driving on the road.

Am I crazy for wanting to dip my whole camper? I'm looking to achieve this paint job in the most cost effective way. I used their online chat bot to get an idea of everything I needed and it came out to about 1,300. I was also considering bed lining the whole van

This is after 4 coats spraying approx 10inches away with overlap. I have been allowing 30 min between coats. This is in a 90 degree garage. What am I not doing right? Plastidip Luxury Black Sapphire.

I'm having a hard time finding any post or video on if anyone has successfully dips these recessed letters? Is it possible to just tape them off and spray them. I've never used plastidip so wondering if the spary will peal cleanly from the letters?

So I decided to go with the Bluegill chameleon. I laid down the matte black base and decided I liked it like that. I had a slight body work imperfection and decided to fix it. (Yeah I know😂) I thought I could touch it up with the can and that shit definitely backfired. I read that I can knock down the sheen with matte clear. I also read if I do go with the chameleon,none of this will even matter. Any feedback would be appreciated 🫡

$150 on marketplace

What should I keep in mind regarding the radiator Grill? Which color would you choose—Luxury Metal Black or standard black? The plastic frame is more of a dark anthracite. The color should blend well with the overall look.

Hey everyone. I have an old Jeep wrangler and the fender flares were grey. So i removed them and used a rattle can of the plastic dip. It looked good for a while but a scratch here and there, the stuff started to peel off. I tried peeling it off but it is a pain in the butt to get it all off and I have 4 fenders to do. can I just spray over it with bed liner and not worry about it?

so my workplace need me to have a black toolbox and i was thinking instead of buying a 400 tool box i can just dip my 30in us general one but before i do so do you guys have any tips and tricks and how many cans would i be needing