Hi fellow 6ers,

I recently bought my Mazda 6 (2013, wagon) and I love it! Although, I am dealing with an issue which is making me scratch my head a bit.. The car is equipped with a rear (backup) camera as well as parking sensors, but when I put the car in reverse the display only show the sensors visual, no camera view. This far I have only managed to make sure no related fuses are burnt/broken as well as making sure the car receives the signal that the gear is placed in reverse.

Anyone who has had the same issue / knows what to do? I wish to handle this on my own without having to hand the car over to the shop, as I aspire to learn more about mechanics of the car etc.

So this is how my Engine bay looks after a month of driving my 2016 Mazda 6 Touring. Not the cleanest engine bay, but also not the dirtiest. My question is, does having a super clean engine bay have any actual benefits or is it just for showing off?

Selling my well-maintained 2016 Mazda6 GT with 210,000 km. Clean title, no accidents, and in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition. Runs and drives great with no issues!!

Hi Mazda 6 owners!

I have a 2018 Mazda 6 (pre-Vision) model, and I think the infotainment system has never been updated during service. The current OS version is 59.00.502 EU N.

Plus, I have no NAV in the system since I didn't buy it with the car.

Feel free to give me ideas on what I should do. Should I update it myself?

Or should I consider the Android CarPlay Module?

Is there any nice looking afther market rearlight for mazda 6 2018+ (picture reference) I only come across the ones that are 2013/2014-2017 model years.

Edit: the 2 pictures of the Mazda wheel is from the one good corner in my car lol.

I’m looking to get 3 (maybe 4) of my wheels refinished. 3 of which have peeling paint and curb rash and some botched paint touch ups from the previous owner. I’m unsure the route to go. The powder coating place near me recommended Kingsport grey (attached below) but I genuinely don’t like it for my car. I’m trying to get as close to the oem finish as possible. Anyone had luck with a powder coat match? Or did you just have them re painted? I attached a photo of a BMW wheel with a black chrome/super chrome combo that seems pretty close to the oem finish. I don’t really want a strong metallic flake. I like the depth of the original finish and that “liquid metal” (idk the proper term?) look. Any suggestions or guidance is much appreciated. Bonus if you have examples or pictures of your own wheels you’ve had done.

( https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMB-5027/kingsport-grey?srsltid=AfmBOop9aClFJ5Yil1PZquLwrgijlbgeHjeIYlBm8D6AWhiwvtqy2n9L )

Hello!
I have a Mazda 6 2008 2.5L manual.

It has a coolant leak in the hose junction in front of the transmissios but I couldn’t recreate and find a specific spot, usually leaks after warming up and stopping. Looks like pressure builds up and sprays from that area.

I wanted to change all coolant hoses and clamps all together because of the age anyway but I can only find a few of them.

Does someone know preferrably all hose inside and outside diameters so I could order same hoses per meter and cut to size?

Have any one of you guys encountered this? And were you able to fix this?

This beeping is not consistent. They go away on its own and come back on its own too. Cleaned the sensors few times though there weren’t any dirt in there. It comes whenever the car is moving from a standstill position. In parking gear it doesn’t do anything but once in Driving or Reverse gear it starts annoying me. I just don’t know what is triggering this issue at all.

Checked with a local mechanic and he couldn’t find out too. He tried connecting a device but there were no error logs for this problem apparently. I am driving with the parking assistant disabled to get rid of the annoying beeps.

So this is my second time posting about getting hit in this car. Never had any frame damage but hoping someone may be able to guess how bad this damage is again. Someone got it really spot on before so 😔🤞 2014 Mazda 6, no air bags deployed and it’s driving relatively normal. I basically got pit maneuvered by someone making an illegal u turn in a right turn lane. Hit my rear passenger wheel pretty dead on and it’s sitting slanted now. nearly flipped the vehicle luckily I was able to regain control. Thank you in advance for any assistance.

Is this due to a bad battery? Just bought one that I need to put in.

Anyone else have this issue and alleviate it with switching battery?

Hi guys, can you please let me know if you think the engine sounds normal. It's Mazda 6 2015 2.2D. I got a doubt as had a fuel from other station than the usual one and thought that engine noise got change. I am not sure as don't have any warning lights on dashboard and no loss of power. I have done quiet a few miles to empty fuel tank and refill it again from usual one. One of the mechanic said it's timing chain needs to be changes. Thanks for your help.

Hello, I have a 2016 Mazda6. I was interested in seeing what my trade-in value was and went to a Toyota dealership. They told me my struts are bad and they’d recommend not driving the car. They did ask if I’ve heard any funny noises, but tbh I haven’t. I don’t hear anything besides the engine when driving and I don’t hear any other noises when I am coming to a stop, etc. They were trying to get me to sign paperwork for a 2017 Toyota Camry, but I told them I wanted to think about it.

Anyway, do you think the struts were a scare tactic to get me into buying a new car? If anything I was going to ask my mechanic to take a look at it this week. Last time I brought my car in was in April. They did a full inspection and didn’t see anything.

UPDATE: I took it into my mechanic on Monday and called them today to check on things. They said my struts are fine. I asked if they need to be replaced anytime soon and they said no. They said the only thing I need to replace in a few months is my brakes.

Doing some cleaning around the house and found this old Mazda brochure that had the 3rd Gen 6 concept and it's crazy how close the production came out.

I posted here a month or two ago what to do with my destroyed Touring seats, here’s the update:
Got a full set of Grand Touring seats incl. all other MATCHING trim parts, but the seats are not plug and play. Had to disassemble the front seats to carcass and replace the sponge and leather into my original carcass. Time consuming but straightforward process.

So I have a turbocharged 2021 mazda 6 GT and the rotors and brakes need replacement. I read through this sub (I couldn't find any posts specifically looking for the front brake set) and did some research and haven't been able to find a compatible powerstop front brake kit.

From my understanding the front rotors must be ventilated and the rear ones need to be solid.

I contacted tdot performance and they said that the "Power Stop KOE8917 - Front And Rear Autospecialty 1-Click OE Replacement Pad And Rotor Kit" won't fit and they recommend the "Power Stop KOE8068 - Autospecialty 1-Click Daily Driver Rear Brake Kit" for the rear set but said they didn't have a part number for the front brake set.

I'm looking to figure out what full brake kit I can purchase to replace the front rotors and pads. Thanks!

‘14 2.5 M/T Mazda6.
Attached is a video of my tach at idle with A/C on. There was no throttle applied at any point in the video. A/C blows strong and cold but I hooked up a manifold to check my refrigerant levels anyway yesterday and it all checked out in spec. It stumbles so bad at idle that my belt will squeal (admittedly my tensioner is a bit on the loose side and I will be replacing it in the next 2-3 weeks) I can feel the car shake and stumble when RPM’s dive to the 700-800 rpm range and it smooths back out when RPM’s climb, only to do it again immediately. It almost seems like my compressor clutch is engaging and disengaging rapidly. At speed with RPM’s in operating range, car runs smoothly with no hesitation or stumbles. This only happens when AC is on. Keep in mind, this is a manual transmission vehicle so there’s nothing funky happening with the converter. Thoughts? Experiences? Open to all advice

Edit: I’m not sure how to add videos but just take my word for it lol. RPM dive to ~700 and jump up to ~900 immediately over and over again

After findig the corect light bulb, got stuck to this point where i am not sure how or if i should take this steel cap off.
All videos that I found online are having an „ easier „ stepts for changing this.
Any advice / video will be highly apprciated. Thank you.

Got an engine check light last night while driving the missus to the airport with my two little boys. I nearly shat myself, as you can imagine. The worst possible moment for shenanigans. The car drives fine, though, although I drove it like a 90-year-old afterwards to avoid tempting fate any further.

There are two instances of this code according to my reader. How bad is this exactly? It's a 2014 Skyactiv diesel, one of the cursed ones at their problematic prime: 140k miles. It has already been decarbonised after a head gasket change. The camshaft wasn't worn, btw.

I have a substantial trip to France this coming Saturday, just to top it off.

Edit: thank you all for your responses, I got it replaced, it was fairly cheap, so far so good.