r/lawncare Apr 20 '26

Sub-etiquette regarding dandelions and weeds

889 Upvotes

If you come to this sub and completely disregard OP's request for help, you're likely gonna have your comment removed and get banned.

Example: If someone is asking to eliminate dandelions, don't reply that they're good for pollinators or suggest they keep them. Users come here for help, they don't come here for your ecological opinion or amateur apiculturist take on things.

If someone wants clover, then they'll ask for tips on clover. But, if they want help eliminating clover to better establish their turf grasses, don't tell them to embrace the clover.

This time of the year this sub get brigaded hard from [r/all](r/all) and other agriculture-related subs. This is the LAWNCARE sub and turfgrasses are the preference around these parts. If you don't like it, don't post. You aren't helping your cause by posting about weeds and bees, you're pissing off people who actually care and put in the work to maintain their property.

Please respect this subs rules, its users, and the moderation.


r/lawncare Jan 15 '26

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 2026 Lawn Products Guide and tips

156 Upvotes

***Disclaimer*** This is technically my post from 2025. But I am seeing a lot of early season questions, even though it'll be near zero degrees for me tomorrow night.

But seeing people ask already is good, regardless if they live a warmer, but still cool season grass area, or if just getting prepared for March and beyond.

Disclaimer - This is written by a cool season lawn owner, who has no children and can play outside whenever I want...not everyone has the time to do so.... I admittedly have less experience with warm-season grasses, but the products shown are all researched for proper use. Always be sure the product your using is made for your area.

Pre-Emergents - Commonly applied when soil temperatures get between 50-55 degrees. These products will block seeds from germinating. They can last anywhere from just a few weeks, to 8 months. The overall life and performance always depends on environmental conditions, and how the ground is maintained. If you don't keep up with mowing, and nurture a healthy lawn, more UV exposure, wind, and rain, can all contribute to degraded performance.

  • Prodiamine - Generally the most used. It's sold in various products, dry and liquid. It has a half life of 120 days. It blocks most seeds, but can not block everything. It has no post-emergent control to kill weeds. It's sold as a water-dispersible-granule(WDG); as Barricade; and in other pre-formulated products.
  • Dithiopyr - Also used often, and sometimes in conjunction with Prodiamine as a split app setup. It blocks weeds, but also has limited post-emergent qualities, meaning it can kill off young crabgrass, less than 2 tiller usually. It's half life is 17 days, but it can last much longer in some capacity. Often a split app would be done Dithiopyr first, as getting it down with soil temps correctly can sometimes be difficult. This will block, and kill some weeds that slip by. Then Prodiamine a few weeks later for extended coverage. Also sold as Dimension.
  • Pendimethalin - This is what is used in Scotts Halts products. It works about the same as Prodiamine, with a 90 half life. It's also more expensive in general.
  • Isoxaben - Generally unknown, due to cost. But this stuff will block all Broadleaf weeds better than anything else. Its' cost though, will keep many users from ever getting it, unless you do a neighbor group buy. Snapshot is one product brand.
  • Mesotrione - The bastard product...lol Sold as itself, Tenacity, Torocity, and possibly other names. It's widely known that Meso is used the wrong way, but a lot of YouTube experts and is pushed by a lot to be the end-all for weeds. It's best use in this space is to be applied only when seeding. This is because while it can block some weeds, it will not block grass seed...so it can give up to 28 days of better chance for new grass to fill in.

It's important to note, these will NOT 100% guarantee a weed free lawn. But it's your first step in early Spring to make the battle a little easier. You can also re-apply during early-mid Summer, but keep in mind if you plan to seed in Fall, a late application may be an issue.

Ok, so you applied....or didn't....now you have weeds, and need to kill them..

(Selective) Post-Emergents - These should be used according to the label...it's not correct to expect AI to know the answer either. The labels are not difficult to read, nor understand. Search for dosing, and just read. If the product only lists amounts for acreage, it's possibly not the best option...but you can do the math and break it done for your yard. An acre is about 43k sq. ft. Unless explicitly stated, these products are safe for grass, dogs, kids, etc...just follow the directions, and at most, 24 hours post application is safe. Lastly, herbicides are best applied as a liquid. This is because the liquid will get into the cell walls of the plant much faster, than being sucked up by the roots. Faster kill time is important, so the plant can not defend itself and try to grow back.

  • 2,4,D - Very common, and will kill a lot of weeds fairly efficiently.
  • Dicamba - Also a very good product to kill weeds.
  • Mecoprop - Add this to above. These 3 on top are commonly sold as a 3-way combo, as attacking weeds from different pathways will result in best action against weeds.
  • Quinclorac - King of killing Crabgrass, as well as Broadleaf weeds. Sold as is, or like above, in many combo products.
  • Triclopyr - Best used for targeting viney type weeds...and clover, creeping charlie, oxalis, ivies, etc... Exercise caution around young trees, or those with exposed roots.
  • Halosulfuron-Methyl - Used against Sedge grasses. It usually still takes 2-3 applications to truly kill the beast that sedge can be, due to it's aggressive growth underground. Branded often as Sedgehammer or Empero.
  • Sulfrentazone - Also used against Sedge, but not always friendly on cool-season grasses.
  • Mesotrione - Looks familiar...yeah, same stuff as above in the pre-emergent section. As a post-emergent, it's best use is for targeting Bentgrass and/or Nimblewill. It's also sometimes mixed with Triclopyr, in which both can enhance the others performance.
  • Topramezone - Sold as Pylex...works great, but not really cost efficient...about $300 for 4oz... But this can kill Bermuda, and not kill good cool season grasses.

Non-Selective - The top one here, and all I will cover is Glyphosate. It's not evil, it's not going to cause cancer with proper use...it's just going to kill whatever you spray it on. It does so by targeting very specific pathway, which leads to a disruption in a hormone synthesis, leading to inability to produce amino acids it needs to survive. Normally sold at 41% concentration. It can kill foliage, through to the root.

Fertilizers - I wasn't going to put much here. To feed your "grass", you add synthetic form of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. That's your N-P-K...seen as 10-10-10, or similar. That number means 10% of the bag is Nitrogen, and 10% is Phosphorous, and 10% is potassium. The rest is all filler, added to allow for proper mixing and application. Sometimes you'll find other amendments in fertilizer, such as sulfur, or other micros. While sulfur is important, it doesn't need to be added every time. It also lowers pH, which can then lead to other issues, causing a wild goose chase. Once in the soil, microbes in the soil break down the NPK, into forms the grass can actually use...natural chelation. You only need Nitrogen for growth...if you're seeding, adding some phosphorous can help the seed establish. Potassium is good for overall plant health, and pairs well at a 3:1 ratio with Nitrogen.

Naturals/Organics - Too many people are one side on the other here. You need and want these, but relying strictly on organics may not produce the best lawn...but it's "chemical" free. However, using these monthly can do more for the soil, than any fertilizer will ever do on it's own.

  • Humic Acid - Acts as a natural chelator for better absorption, by increasing the cation exchange capacity, which allows the soil to better retain the goodies you want in the soil. It also increase root strength, and helps to hold more carbon in the soil.
  • Kelp - Containing great amounts of natural hormones, Kelp will boost roots even more, and allow for stronger growth viz delivery of auxins and cytokines used for development.
  • Compost - Well known as a great soil amendment, it brings natural microbes into the soil biome. Those microbes help maintain a low thatch surface, and better soil composition.
  • Worm Castings - Similar to above, natural microbes and beneficial qualities for soil. Not very cost efficient though.
  • Leaves - Yeah...some say mulch all day, some disagree. I am a disagree'er, to a certain degree. I do mulch my clippings, but will also sweep them away every other week. Leaves I shred and sweep away the majority of them, but once the main clean-up has passed, the rest is mulched and remains.
  • Biochar - Made with a specific process called, Pyrolysis. Burning at high temps, 900-ish...in a low-oxygen chamber. This allows for the material, wood, coconut, etc...to be charred down to a state where it has not fully oxidized, which would turn it white, and into useless ash. When it is still in a charred form, it has millions and millions of microscopic pores that serve as homes for water, microbes, nutrients, all that good stuff. It's best worked into the soil at least a few inches deep.
  • Mychorizae - These are fungal organisms that attach to the roots, and help them bring water and nutrients. Overlooked or unknown, but these are a huge part of growing anything with success, from lawns to gardens and more. They are very good to have in the mix.

Insect Control - These can't be forgotten...but I did originally, so I am adding them in now. The biggest concern is likely grubs. The larvae of beetle. Also want to cover for armyworms, cinch bugs, and even ants if they become a problem. There are a few classes of these products...

-Pyrethroids- These are synthetics that mimic natural pyrethrins, which disrupt the insects nervous system, causing paralysis and death.

  • Bifenthrin - Common general insect control agent...liquid or dry availability. Kills quite a bit of bugs, but no residual control. One time death call.
  • Gamma-cyhalothrin -
  • Zeta-Cypermethrin -
  • Lambda-Cyhalothrin -
  • Permethrin -
  • Deltamethrin - This has residual action...meaning up to 90 days post application, it will kill bugs that touch it.

The above are what you'll get in most common Ortho type products, but generally Bifen is commonly sold solo.

-Nicotinoids-

  • Imidacloprid - Please don't use this if you can avoid it. It's a very nasty chemical, that can do the job, but it also can damage soil biome, and worse, it is deadly to a lot of animals...specifically pollinators. Birds can also be affected. It's getting banned in more places, but is still sold often as Merit.

-Alkyl-Halide-

  • Chlorantraniliprole - Sold as Acelepryn, this is what you need to control grubs. It has to be applied in advance, as it takes time to work into the soil, and prepare death for larvae that hatch. I usually apply this in mid April, early May, giving it a few weeks to activate, and when June hits, that's when my area sees grub damage...not for me though. The Scotts Company pays a fee to use this in their Grub-Ex product.

Fungicides - Often overused, but still an important part of lawncare. However, I am not a fan of preventative use, unless it's a direct and repeated history of fungus...which means there is something else you're not correcting. Fungus is not a guarantee, and is not always the right presumption...I've seen lawns go from slightly affected, to downright destroyed because someone would focus on fungus, when there were other issues... Also, when used, they should be used in a 3-way rotation, to avoid getting a buildup/resistance, in which they become almost useless. Overapplying these can have a very negative affect, because they are all non-selective, and will likely kill a lot of the good bacteria and microbes you want in the soil.

  • Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole
  • Thiophanate-methyl

Those are generally the top 3 used. Some retail products will have Azoxy and Prop mixed, which may work better for a low level infection...but using that repeatedly is the same as not rotating, and can create a hostile soil biome.

In general summary...always try to identify the weed you're targeting. Using something to hope it kills is irresponsible, and could cause more harm than good. If you need to ask the community, always find a good example weed, something that has grown for at least a week...pull from the bottom, get as much of any root ball or rhizome as you can. Also, get a pic of the plant in close up detail, where we can see the stem moving to the leaves/blades. This will help with certain traits that only "this or that" would have, and can help us make a better recco.

Note - I'm not covering direct organic fertilizers here. The only product I would recommend on that level is made Earth Sciences, and is called Moorganite. It is a direct replacement for Milorganite, which is a dirty, pfas chemical laden product that smells like a summer time port'o'potty.

To keep a strong lawn, adding a monthly organic boost will help a lot. I'm not a fan of 4-step type products, and prefer to feed on my own schedule, which is about every 4 weeks...so back to the monthly program....but this gets me an always wanting to grow lawn, cutting to 4" is also a key point. Tall grass will crowd out weeds, and look better in general...

On My Shelf - This is what I have in my lawn cabinet, and is what helps me with my lawn plan. I also use some of these products with my garden and other plants.

  • Triad Select - A combo of 2,4,D, Dicamba, and Meco. I use this for general weed control.
  • Quintessential - Quinclorac, but branded...still the same thing. This is for crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds. Also have the MSO Surfactant it requires.
  • Triclopyr Ester - Mainly used to keep wood-line vines and ivy away for me.
  • Empero - For Sedges
  • Glyphosate - To kill all
  • Fusillade II - Used once to kill Quackgrass...but it also killed the rest of my good grass...so extreme caution here. But it does kill quack better than Gly, so if you're going to kill all anyway, might as well make sure it's dead-dead for sure...
  • Azoxy 2C - Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole 14.3
  • Cleary's 3336 - Thiophanate-methyl
  • Blue Dye This does NOT wash off easily...lol SO be careful
  • BioAG Ful-Humix - This is my humic acid. It's a powder that is 55% concentrate, and is 85% soluble. It gets dissolved in warm water overnight, then filtered out for any remaining solids; then mixed with other organic goodies, and applied monthly.
  • BioAG CytoPlus - A mix of humic and kelp.
  • BioAG Vam-Endo - Myco mix, also has humic acid.
  • Prevagenics Liquid Compost. This stuff stinks, in a good way.
  • Bloom City Liquid Kelp. I use this or GS Plant foods brand as well.

I use a Ryobi 4g tank backpack sprayer for most liquid apps. Echo RB-60 for dry items. I have an 22 year old Craftsman pusher for my front/small areas, and Toro TimeCutter 42" ZT with a Kawasaki engine. Echo Blower, Ryobi edger/trimmer as well.

Ok, so I may have missed something here or there. Please let me know if you see something that need attention. I'm sure there is other information available, but I hope this helps some people figure it out for themselves. The more we all know, the better a community we can be.

Signing off,

-Ricka...

P.S. - I did review and check, but nothing really needed a major update. New products may be released later this year, and if they are improvements, I will certainly update as needed...


r/lawncare 8h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Woke up to this. Any idea what may have caused this?

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490 Upvotes

Front lawn.We didn't notice anything unusual just woke up to this. Looks like a very particular pattern up close grass looks like it's been burned or at least very dry. NJ


r/lawncare 10h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Thriving in summer

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595 Upvotes

My backyard KBG is thriving this year. Anyone else here reel mow KBG?


r/lawncare 2h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) It feels good to own a Honda again

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53 Upvotes

First mow impressions - 6.5K sq ft lawn didn’t bring the battery gauge even down one notch.

Suction is incredible, gets right to the sides.

Had a kolbalt 80v on its 10th season before this. So glad I passed on an ego two years in a row and saw that Honda dropped their electric line.


r/lawncare 9h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Why are my st Aug runners above the lawn? Location: TX

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55 Upvotes

Shouldn't these runners be below the blades?


r/lawncare 1h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Chicago area. What is this growth?

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Upvotes

My apologies if you've seen this before. This springs up quickly after mowing, and as we've had little rain in the past week, I'm surprised that this thrives. It doesn't look like crabgrass or nutsedge, so I'm stumped as to what it is. Thoughts? There are very few of these shoots in my lawn, so I'd like to attack it ASAP. Wondering what to use. Thanks all.

EDIT: Corn? OMG. I thought that's what it looked like, but I thought there's no way. Can I just pull it safely, or do I need to blitz it with something?


r/lawncare 9h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Is this what I think it is?

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34 Upvotes

What should I do m ow to prevent continuing spreading, and what to do after I remove this? Note: I live in Pa.


r/lawncare 17h ago

Equipment Finally committed to mowing at a lower height and I think I was doing it wrong for years

128 Upvotes

Been mowing at around 3.5 inches my whole life because that was just what my dad did and I never questioned it. Dropped down to 2.25 inches this season on my tall fescue and the lawn looks completely different. Tighter, denser, way less of that floppy look after a rain. Stripes actually show up now instead of just kind of disappearing an hour after I finish.

What nobody told me is how much blade sharpness matters at lower heights. At 3.5 you can get away with a dull blade longer. Drop it down and the tips start browning out fast if the blade is even slightly off.

Took about three cuts to get it dialed in without stressing the grass too bad, coming down gradually. The lawn threw a little tantrum the first week but it recovered and now I get a much cleaner cut overall.

Curious how many people are running lower than they were told to by the bag or the internet guides. Those generic height recommendations feel like they're written for someone who just wants the lawn to survive, not actually look good.


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Same spot in yard does every summer

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7 Upvotes

I live in New England and every summer the same spot in my front yard dies. It's only the section nearest to the road, the area closer to the house stays green. The front yard is in full fire t sun and I have a sprinkler system.

I use grub prevention every year and a general fertilizer a few times per year.

I'm at a loss, I need to reseed every fall and it's getting old.

Any thoughts?


r/lawncare 21h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) My lawn is significantly more dry and dead than anyone on my street, maybe even my neighborhood. I've been trying to turn it around for years but can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

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112 Upvotes

Ok, I'm feeling lost as hell here.

I moved into my house 5 years ago (Southern Ontario, Canada, Zone 6a) and every year my front lawn gets worse in regards to drought damage and dead grass by this point in the summer.

Ok, I'll take a step back and explain. So despite my significant effort to improve the health of my lawn, my lawn for the last three years has massive dry/dead patches by this time in the summer, it's so bad in some areas of my lawn that there is no grass there anymore, just bare dry soil.

I understand that the earth is getting hotter and dryer, but my confusion is that my lawn seems to be the worse on my street by a large margin. Like my direct neighbors on either side of my house have 3x less drought damage than I do, and I've sure as hell never seen the two grandmothers I'm sandwiched between putting any efforts at all into their lawns. Our houses face the same direction, we all get the same amount of shade/sun, yet mine is significantly more damaged. It's the same for anyone on the street, some houses are better than others, but mine is undoubtedly the worse, and I've never seen any kind of irrigation running on their lawns.

Some of the steps I've taken to try and improve the health of my lawn:

- Seed and fertilizer every spring and fall using Scotts fall fertilizer and lawn care fertilizer (the red bag and green bag).

- Ordered 2 yards of triple mix top soil, raking it into the lawn, then over seeding that fall.

- Getting an aerator service every fall (soil does not feel hard and I can easily stab a screw driver into it).

- Getting a soil sample analyzed, with it only showing I'm slightly low on nitrogen.

I should mention that this year, 10 weeks ago, I did do a broadleaf weedkiller in the feeble attempt at trying to control the weeds that have since thrived on my lawn because the grass is so thin, so perhaps that stressed the grass too much.

However it was this bad last year, and the year before it, when I didn't use any kind of herbicide.

Also, my backyard, it gets more shade, and the grass is healthier back there, so that would indicate my front lawn is simply drought damage, however that doesn't explain why everyone on my street is doing better than I am.

Anyways, you can see the damage in my photos, and the photos of the healthy green lawns are my neighbors. It's the same across the neighborhood, most houses look like my neighbors mostly healthy lawns, but mine looks like it could start a brush fire.

If all the lawns in my neighborhood looked like mine, I'd be less upset, but it's something about my little plot of land where the gods have just said "no", despite all my efforts and pivoting in trying to improve things.

Looking for ANY input.

Thanks all..


r/lawncare 9h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Pre-Emergent not working?

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11 Upvotes

I’ve put down two rounds of pre-emergent this year, once in the spring with the forsythia bloom and then again early June. I’m still getting some crabgrass popping up, and whatever this weed is. Is my pre-emergent not working? Located in Rochester, NY.


r/lawncare 34m ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Grass death

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Upvotes

North Atlanta. I have an area of grass dying that has become very muddy. My lawn guy says he thinks it has to do with rain drops falling off of the branches. Is that what yall think? What can I do about it? Will cutting the branches be enough? I know we could extend out the mulch bed but it’s already a huge mulch bed as it is, we actually wanted to make it smaller. 😫


r/lawncare 1h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Odd patterns on lawn, utah

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Upvotes

Trying to figure out what happened to this grass. But I've never seen chemical burn like this hope someone can help


r/lawncare 8h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Argh! It just keeps coming back!!

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6 Upvotes

Any suggestions for how to rid myself of Bermuda grass in my rock beds? It grows right through landscape fabric. I sprayed w roundup early in the season, and would hand weed. This is what it looks like after being gone for two weeks. I live in Northern Utah. We are in a severe drought, but this stuff keeps growing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’m a lawn/yard novice, and it shows.😭


r/lawncare 9h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Weed ID request. Quebec

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9 Upvotes

It’s spreading like crazy


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Lawn help!!

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3 Upvotes

So I inherited this yard, im in Montana. Ive been trying to just water the hell out of it. I even broke up a chunk and laid seed and fertilizer in a small spot and got nothing. I think my yard is infested with quack grass. Its really rough and bumpy. The whole yard looks bare even though there is grass. Im just super unsure how to tackle this, not sure if I should just till the whole thing or just aerate and overseed with pre emergent in the fall. Just looking to give my daughter's a yard to play in. Im all ears and humble enough to admit i have little to no idea what to do hahaha


r/lawncare 6h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Northern Arizona

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4 Upvotes

Zone 6b -was up on my roof cleaning gutters and noticed the extreme contrast of my yard to the surrounding area. Grateful to have some green!


r/lawncare 1d ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) What do I have growing in my mulch? (Northern Virginia)

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125 Upvotes

Some have really deep white roots. Any help is appreciated


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) i got pics this time. northeast indiana identify?

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2 Upvotes

okay. i didnt want to wait until they started seeding at the ends again bcs i do not want to damage my mower with how thick it gets. 😅

this grass in my backyard, ONLY the back half of my backyard, gets thick fast. even after about a week it was like a blanket it was so thick…

i dont have pictures of the seedheads, but i noticed these clover-type things grow at the bottom of the patches that grow suuuuper thick, and there are some spots with berry-looking things. like wild raspberries maybe? but the berries dont grow on all the leaves that look like that.

any chance these can be identified like this? if not ill just cut my losses because i swear i cannoooot let it gets thick enough to seed.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Maryland Lawn Help

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2 Upvotes

Every summer my grass has been dying. Neighbors just fine. Last fall reseeded with overseeder, aerated, and fertilized. Grass came in perfect. Spring was great. But summer just wipes me out. I cannot water all summer due to costs. I did apply fungal treatment. At this point I am thinking there is a problem with the soil. Maybe needs later of topsoil or compost in the areas that have problems? Could it be grubs? I did dig down and did not find anything.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Pretty sure it’s toast in Denver, CO. Is it?

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2 Upvotes

We’re on drought restrictions, 2x watering a week, supposed to be 20 min cycles.

I posted before about crab/quack grass and some of you said to try glysophate on a per weed basis with a glove. I tried but it didn’t seem to die. Now the heat and dryness seem to be killing everything but that and one spot where I put a new sprinkler head that is highly inefficient, but seems to keep it green.

The bad winter killed off anything the dogs peed on all winter, I tried reseeding, it required a watering exemption from the district, and is all dead now anyway. I’d apply for another, in the fall but not sure they’ll approve since I already failed.

Wondering if I should scrap the whole yard and hope for a better winter and redo it all in the spring? Or what do I do?


r/lawncare 21m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Help

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Upvotes

So I’m northeast and I feel like I can’t get rid of these anytime. I use a herbicide I end up killing my grass. Is there any granular formula that I can use to get rid of crap grass and these other weeds that are showing up on my backyard?


r/lawncare 24m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Ridges in cut grass, at a loss

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Upvotes

My Troy bilt bronco started leaving those ridges behind after cutting. It's especially bad where I turned. The photo is about a week since the last cut.

Previously when that happened, it used to be that my deck wasn't level. This time, however, I moved it into the garage, checked the tire pressure (10, 10, 14, 14) and then measured from the blades to the ground. 3.25" on the left and 3.25" on the right. What's going on?


r/lawncare 29m ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Is the lawn edging too deep?

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Upvotes

Hi, I am based in the bay area and i feel my gardner cuts the grass too deep on the edges. It creates a trench between grass and the concrete slab. It has happened on multiple times.

Do you guys thinkn it is really deep? What can I fill this trench with? Thank you.