I've owned this car since 2010. It was my first project car and a father son project with my dad. I always enjoyed it but then I got another project car, and then a fun daily, and the weekend weather sucked the last couple years and it just sat.

I posted in Facebook groups, on marketplace itself, had multiple deals fall through and felt like I was running a call center at one point. Finally had a guy that seemed really serious. He loved the car, drove it, realized it hurt his back too much due to a prior work accident and he still considered buying it anyway. At that point we talked for another hour and he convinced me not to sell it and I'm really glad he did. Finally bit the bullet and it's getting a terminator x as we speak. Over the winter I'll probably finally do the five lug swap I've wanted to do for years and maybe a little boost next year.

I see a lot of people posting "thinking about selling" and just wanted to give an alternate perspective. The process sucks. You'll deal with tons of tire kickers, tons of know-it-alls in the comments, people no showing pick ups and then falling off the face of the earth. It's not like it used to be where people come see the car and try and deal in person.

The whole process actually made me fall in love with the car again and I can't wait to get it up to modern standards.

Every few years I get the itch to get another car that’s on my list of cars I’d like to own. I’d like to build a nice 300zx with a V8 instead.
But my fox is my car and will never have one like it again.
I’m torn…

I’m a very paranoid person about mold and this is my first ever project so I’m hoping I can get some veterans to tell me if this is just a bad stain or mold. The white spot was under a penny so I’m not so concerned about that, but the rest looks like just a terrible stain. Let me know, thanks!

Is anyone making a Replica Underhood Insulation Liner for the 87-93 Foxes? All I can find are those craptacular generic ones at LMR and CJ.

Hey guys, I have an amazing white 1991 Mustang GT 78,345 miles original no rollover. Never repainted no other mods besides vortech SC. Clean title everything works like it did in 1991. Car is immaculate. I put it up for $21,500 is that reasonable or should I aim for less.

Going to start off by saying, I don’t know much at all about building engines. Just going over something I should’ve done the first time when I originally put the cam in my 302(found out my stock cam was no good when I was replacing my timing cover and at the time the Mustang was my only car at the time so I bought the cheapest cam I could get my hands on). I was running SUM-8901 (b303+ cam) with stock springs for a few months and the car ran great until the oil pump seized (210k miles on the pump). Now that I’ve opened the motor up, I’m trying to do things the right way and upgrade to springs that can handle the lift. Planning to install the springs at 1.940in like the trickflow site recommends. I’d just like some input on whether these would be the correct springs to buy. I know “Alex’s parts” sells springs specifically for gt40 heads but they’re out of stock. It’s also an AOD car with 3.08 gears.. I know someone who has a brand new trickflow stage 1 cam they’d give me a deal on or I can buy a whole new cam aswell.. I’d really just like to know if I can use TFS-16841-16 springs with the SUM-8901 cam. Like I said before, the car drove great. Didn’t bog down or stall out eventhough the aod is stock. Any input is appreciated

I recently got a 89 GT with a sunroof that I'm working on cleaning up. My sunroof glass has this odd shape in the center. Question, is the reflective part factory finish and the middle is some kind of failure? I've tried steaming it thinking it was tint, can't seem to get under it with anything. I've noticed the reflection goes all the way to the mounting holes for the brackets. Hoping someone else has seen this.

This sounds insane lol. I’m not dragging my exhaust and I’m gonna check all my hardware just to be sure it’s all tightened down and nothing has scratch marks; but this only happens once the car reaches closed loop. I’m doing my first couple test drives of my project and as the car is cold and warming up it’ll run fairly normal, after getting to closed loop it makes this god awful sound

1990 Mustang GT 5.0 5-Speed Convertible – Slowly Bringing Her Back to Life

I’ve been working on my 1990 Mustang GT convertible a few hours at a time, taking my time and trying to do things the right way instead of rushing through everything. This has turned into a combination of maintenance, restoration, and upgrades.

So far, I’ve completed or had the following work done:

Engine / Cooling

- Water pump

- Thermostat

- Thermostat housing

- 70mm throttle body

- BBK cold-air intake

- New spark plugs

- Ford Racing spark plug wires

- New ignition coil

Electrical / Charging

- New 200-amp alternator

- New alternator bracket

- New belt tensioner

- New 4-gauge battery/charging cables

- Refreshed/replaced engine and vehicle grounds

- Headlight relay harness

A/C System

- New A/C compressor

- New receiver-drier/accumulator

- New orifice tube

- A/C system serviced and recharged

Power Steering

- New power steering pump

- New high-pressure hose

- New low-pressure/return hose

Exhaust / Performance

- BBK shorty headers

- Flowmaster Super 44 exhaust

Lighting / Exterior / Chassis

- New diamond-clear headlight assemblies

- 3-point strut tower reinforcement/brace

- 3M ceramic tint all around

- Kill switch

- Two-way paging Viper alarm system with up to a 1-mile range

I’ve also been cleaning parts and surfaces properly, repainting certain components for better aesthetics, and torquing everything to specification. I’m trying to keep the Foxbody character while making the car cleaner, more reliable, and more enjoyable to drive.

The project is still in progress, but the major mechanical, electrical, A/C, lighting, and exterior work is coming together. With the upgraded 200-amp alternator and new 4-gauge charging cables, the next big step is getting the car ready for the audio system.

This is my first time doing a lot of this work myself, so I’ve been learning as I go. I’m taking my time and enjoying the process. There’s something really satisfying about bringing a 35+ year-old Foxbody back to life one system at a time.

I’d love to hear from other Foxbody enthusiasts: what would you recommend checking, upgrading, or addressing next?

1984 capri. 2 owners. 4cly 4 speed. Located in New Jersey. Interior is a 6/10, rough but all there. Runs good but trans is stuck in neutral. 86k original miles. Has strut tower rust and has rust on the floors. Yes it’s rough. Not sure what to expect price wise. I don’t see them come up for sale often near me.

Hey folks I’m trying to understand what could be possible causes for my car to be popping out of the exhaust when cruising around and fully warmed up. I’m trying to shake down and test the car now that it’s finally on the road, I’m new to this. But the car was hot and began to pop, I pulled over and shut it off. When re starting it struggled to start and I had to hit the gas when cranking in order for it to catch and fire up. It’s home now but it was popping on the way back too when off of the throttle. Any help would be appreciated! Car is a 347 stroker with P heads and P intake with 24lb injectors and a quarterhorse chip on an A9L ECU

What is this piece called and can I drill out the spot welds to remove it? I need access to treat some rot.

Was pretty caked last night and snapped a photo of her sleeping.

Planning to replace the dipstick tube and track down a minor brake line issue before too long. Other than seat belts, I haven't had the opportunity to do much else work on it in my first 9 months of ownership.

Last summer, my buddy and I installed SVE full length subframe connectors on my coupe. They didnt seem like they lined up like they should, but we made it work. I have never seen connectors sit this low before. Does anyone have photos of these specific SVE full length connectors on their car?

LRS-FULLSUBS

Okay so Iam looking for over the counter ways ergo Lowes, harbor freight, parts store etc etc to treat surface rust on my car. It’s a 1993 that is a sunroof car I just bought that has leaked in the past it doesn’t have any holes in it but due to carpet padding holding in moisture it has like a “chunky” rust on some of the floor pans my solution I have cooked up is wire wheel the piss out of it use rust oleum rust dissolver (I have had good luck with it in the past in my dentsides then clean prep hit with rust oleum rust reformer spray paint then black enamel paint. Bear in mind you could eat thanks giving dinner off the bottom of the car it’s just like a heavy surface rust on the inside. Does this sound like a decent budget friendly solution? Photos of products in comments

Bought it off my aunt for 700 with 25k miles. 4 cylinder 4 speed. Love this little car, haven't used it in a few years due to the carb being messed up.

Her Name is Michelle

I bought this car for $11,000 in 2000. I grew up in the pits of the NHRA my dad drove a super comp dragster for many years. On the daily dad drove conservative company vehicles, so my first hand experience with performance and sports cars came from my neighbor up the street frank.... Frank's dad owns a tire shop in North Jersey and Frank's mom drove a white Mustang just like that.

**** please understand the only way I was able to purchase this car I mean legitimately purchase it as in the money is mine was because I was involved in a personal injury lawsuit and received a substantial sum of money.

Repeated rides to school in franks Mustang left me with a permanent hard on... a different type of hard on that is.... nothing at all like the one my high school sweetheart would provide for me during the same time

So I bought the white Mustang for $11,000 with $55,000 miles it was bone stock aod transmission ....then over the next 5 years I spent another $26,000 on modifications.

My first modifications were generic ... but absolutely necessary - 5% tint all around and a

complete system (pioneer head unit, Pioneer interior speakers, 1.5 farad capacitor 1200 w amp for two 12-in Kicker Comp VR Subs sealed box, 800w amp for interior speakers, optima yellow top battery.

At this point it was full speed ahead....

complete Driveline swap and body upgrades- t5z transmission King Cobra clutch aluminum drive shaft 355 gears Chrome cobra rims BFG drag radials short throw shifter 2.5-in Cowl Hood lxtail lights stalker front bumper, welded in rollcage

Then the motor - 302 bored 306, vortech s trim with aftercooler, Lunati camshaft, trick flow intakes Twisted wedge heads forged internals mass air sensor and throttle body upgrades fuel pump and injector upgrades

When it was all said and done I ended up selling the car for $12,500.... and I bought dope with the funds. My stupid drug addiction ended up taking my love from me. But she ended up in a good home of a friend of mine and apparently she's still in Central Jersey somewhere I tried to find it many times but I still can't locate her.

Before I start accidentally breaking things! What is the proper way to remove the little arm and the green looking rubber connections on the hvac controls? Currently trying to do a radio and HVAC relocation and don’t want to snap or break something important

trying to put my backseat back in after painting them but they are bolting up crooked what am i doing wrong?

So I managed to find a kit that relocated the heater controls and it came with a double DIN bezel. So now I have Android audio with backup camera and front camera

Mulling over what trans to run in my 89 its going to be pretty much stock 6.0 with stage 2 cam nothing crazy but thought about tkx but many reviews have me worried they grind even before 500 miles also thought of t56 magnum but idk of thats to much money for a stock ls

I’m excited , questions, it bottoms out when I go a tad bit fast over speed bumps and bottoms out when I turn to fast .

I haven’t been getting any air from my dash vents recently. I know the controls run on vacuum lines. In my previous 89, this was a result of the black line under the hood by the firewall being cracked, but that line looks okay this time around.

All the other lines seem okay leading from the control panel to the junction on the passenger side. Same with the lines under the hood. However, I found this yellow line that was not attached to anything on the other end-making me think this may be the culprit.

I could not find where this attaches to the other end. Is there a place where this attaches to, and if so, could this help get air flowing through the dash vents?