I've had my '14 Ford Escape 2.0 Titanium and it's been reliable and had taken me to wherever I need to go with no issue (besides some flats on a 100 miles trip), but since I've gotten it I've been feeling that it uses to much gas even on highways but since I was coming from a 2004 Honda Civic with a 1.6 L engine I said to myself, Okay is a bigger engine, so it uses more gas, I thought... and so I continue driven it for 2 years till today where I saw another driver with the same car that needed assistance on a flat, and saw his gauge and said more MPG than mine, so it comes to my mind if I maybe need to take it to a mechanic to have that fuel usage checked...

Sooooo, is it my imagination or maybe is it my driving behavior (I drive like a grandma) that's making the fuel not as efficient as the other car?

First reddit post bc i’m so done with this and want your opinions. (already read up a lot on this but seeing if my situation is different)

Leased a 2018 ford escape se from my ford dealership (Canada) in 2019 and in 2023 paid out the car for 10k (obviously not knowing about the known engine issues with this model)

Fast forward to last week got a high engine temperature stop safely sign. Got car towed to our car shop who said he’ll start off with getting a new thermostat holder then seeing if we need a new engine. FYI we had engine fault signs a few times but whenever we brought it to the shop he told us to ignore it.

In the meantime I decided to look up ford escape models bc I felt iffy about his diagnosis especially bc he’s the same guy who told us to ignore the signs which i believe led to this. Not surprisingly I see the ford recalls and search our vin that shows our car was in the one time repair but expired jan 2026.

Ford dealership did a diagnostic and said we need a new engine and told us to try calling Ford customer care corporate but obviously they didn’t do anything and we are left with a 14k+tax bill for new engine.

I’m pissed off bc i feel this could’ve been avoided if our mechanic treated the engine fault signs as an issue or guided us to take it to ford and we could’ve got the new engine replacement since the signs started before jan 2026.

Do you guys think it’s fair/worth it to take it up to our car shop and complain as they didnt do their “duty of care” as professionals and gave negligent that led to this engine failure and threaten to hold them liable to see what they say?

TBH idk if it will go anywhere and most likely going to take the L but my remaining choices remain as follows bc i am not keeping this ford (car is under 120k km and clutch quoted around 9k before we got in this mess)

1. selling to scrap/auto recycler
2. selling to auto shops as is to see what we can get
3. i know there’s the option of selling privately "as is" mentioning it requires engine swap but im out of energy and patience to deal with this car now.

what do you guys think?

Its a manual seat i press the lever and it doesn't move i even tried pushing and pulling on the seat to see if it was stuck.

Manual says AWD.. but doesnt go into depth

I have a 2020 ford escape sel

Took care to dealer, they could not find anything wrong. The alarm triggers, I key fob it off and then the lights start blinking. I unlock and lock the door via fob. All is settled

Hey fellow Escape owners,

I've got a 2017 SE AWD 1.5 that has been pretty reliable after the engine coolant issue at 62K miles. My engine was replaced (paid by Ford), since then I've only needed oil changes and tires. I don't plan on keeping it longer than two more years, it's at 117K miles.

At my last oil change, I was quoted 6K for new brakes, shock and struts. They also recommended replacing the sway bar and an alignment. I also went to Discount Tire for air, and they confirmed my rear driver side tire was wearing too quickly.

I laughed and said wow, that's about what the car's worth, guess it's time to trade! Does this price sound normal in today's economy, or was I the target of a screw job? I'm not noticing any issues, but I'm also not mechanically knowledgeable.

Thank you for any thoughts on what to do with this car.

Hey everyone just got a new to me 2010 Mercury Mariner (Ford Escape rebadged) and it has the power steering assist failure and planning on changing the sensor. I know I know all the hate about eBay/Chinese parts but anyone have any luck with them? Or the PowerSteeringSeals site one? If anything I can just get it from the dealer and cry once buy once. Thanks!

Is 245/70/16 on stock height going to be fine for an 08 escape

Have a question on the 2 year service and parts warranty. I have a 2017 Ford escape that I have had Tons of issues with. In June of 2025, I took it to a ford dealership and had an oil leak diagnosed—turns out it was coming from the Turbo charger, which had to be replaced on top of hoses and the crank case breather and I spent 4300.00 (this came after I was right out of the 3 year warranty window after having my entire engine replaced in 2022).

Well now I have an oil leak again. Took it to the Ford dealer closer to my home where I paid to have it diagnosed and they said that the leak is coming from the throttle body, vacuum pump and turbo/CAC tube. The dealership said they would acknowledge the warranty from the other place if I had already paid for it to be replaced last year. But it seems that all of these parts are different than the ones replaced last year.

I’m livid. Should I go to the dealer I went to last year and ask them to fix it and will any of this be covered under their 2 year warranty since it’s different parts? I almost done trust them. Is this even worth my time? Or should I take it to the place closer to home and just pay full price for labor and parts.

My mother has this car, but it is the one with the 6" screen without android auto support. I am trying to figure out the most budget-conscious way to add GPS with a larger screen...maybe a stand alone screen instead of a head unit replacement.

Where are the auxiliary power outlets located? I read somewhere that they are always hot, correct?

Does this vehicle have usb ports and if so, where are they located? Also, are they always hot?

I appreciate the help.

I took the car to the Ford Dealer, they said nothing is wrong. The alarm goes off, I hit the key fob then the lights start blinking. I unlock the door and relock using the key fob. What's wrong.

When is a good amount of mileage to service check the turbocharger on the 2020 2.0 SEL. I’m at 97k with no noticeable difference in performance, outside of it being really jerky when sitting at under 2k rpm and when it shifts up it’s somewhat jerky with minimal lag.

I want to stay on top of maintenance as I really like this car and have put some upgrades into it now that have paid it off.

My question is, should I look into service for the turbo or wait till the FordPass starts yelling at me.

I have a 2015 Escape and I recently moved to a state that requires a front plate. My escape doesn't have the holes for the bracket, and when I tried to find solutions they either had the holes or want me to use steel ties/tow hook. I don't see how the steel ties could work in that area. I can do the tow hook if I have to, but I'd prefer it to be centered and don't mind putting holes in the bumper!

So can I just use some self taping screws?
What type/size should I look for?

I purchased some dumbbells in another state (45-90lbs, 1,350lbs total) and I’m planing on using my 2022 Ford Escape to pick them up. The gross vehicle weight rating is 4,920 lbs, while the curb weight is 3,800lbs and I weigh 225lbs. I was thinking of taking out the rear seats to lose some weight and would obviously try to distribute the weight of the dumbbells throughout the car.

Is this a terrible idea?

At first , her car was saying “key fob not detected” which made no sense because we just bought a new key fob and a new battery for it. We took it back to the dealership to have their mechanic check it, and he told us after a day that they had put the incorrect battery in the car and that’s why it was giving her trouble. Fast forward maybe a week and a half, the car won’t start. The AC , and screen will power on for a few seconds , then shut off. When we start it , there’s no click noise, there’s just nothing. We called multiple people we know trying to seek advice , and we actually found out from our friend that the red button you see above the push/start button is not supposed to be there and the previous owner had it installed. He said to flip it ( it’s a flippable red switch ) so we flipped it upward and then started the car and it worked. After getting off the phone with him, we tried to do it again and the car just went back to not starting. I’m wondering if this red switch is causing the issue that she is having? Her car won’t start due to it? I read that it can be installed for anti theft purposes but it can also be installed to basically replace having to start the car with the break? I’m wondering if we should take her car back to the dealership and their mechanic, or take it to an actual ford place and get a diagnostic. The place we bought the car from will check / “ fix it “ for free but a diagnostic from ford is 250.

I replaced my very dead battery and then the power steering went out. We tried replacing fuses and the manual wheel resets. No failure comes up in a scanner or on my dash. What else can I do??

Squeaky door on 2020 Ford escape sel

Hey friends! I'm a new Ford Escape owner, just bought a 2025 ST LINE all black. Looking at the weird little chrome piece above the grill - I'd like to black this out completely. Does this specific part come off, or would it be best to get it wrapped to match the grill?

Thanks!

What’s the thought on getting a 2016 1.6L if it has a new transmission? Just test drove one with 134,000 but only 100 miles on the new transmission. My stepdaughter really likes it and the price seems reasonable. Should we expect another 100,000 miles with regular maintenance?

Model: 2012 Ford Escape Limited 2.5L
195k Mileage

I recently got this car and having some issues with it.

1. It is very slow when accelerating from a stop sign.
   
2. Happens sometimes: When the speed is around 40-55, if I press the accelerator (tried pressing it very firmly), the rpm rises but the speed rarely moves. And sometimes both the rpm and accelerator do not rise.

*There are no codes*

I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor and drained and filled around 5.5 quart of new transmission fluid. Also, cleared the adaptive learning tables. Only thing changed is that it is slightly more responsive on acceleration. ( Driven 80 miles after doing all that)

What could be the problem? Attached is a picture of throttle body before cleaning.

I'm hearing water sloshing around the back so best guess is that my drain line is plugged up. My cowl vents were pretty dirty with caked on dirt and leaves.

Could someone please tell me where the line is and if a tire inflator with a cone attachment is enough to unclog it?

Thank you

2017 Titanium, and I'm a little freaked about the potential from the transmission to die, so I think I'm going to start looking at other used SUVs.

The only issue is that my girlfriend has gotten very comfortable with the luxury amenities of the titanium, which are admittedly pretty great. I laughed at needing a heated steering wheel until the temperature spent a week below freezing here.

Just looking at the usual suspects (Mazda CX-5, Subaru Forester, Nissan Rogue, Honda CR-V) none of them seem to have a high end trim line that comes close to the Escape Titanium. Some of them will have heated seats, and touch screen, and not much else.

I'm trying to stay away from the actual luxury brands (Audi, BMW), because I don't feel like paying for tax for parts & maintenance.