r/Dogtraining Dec 29 '25

announcing Community FAQ

20 Upvotes

Please read before posting or commenting

This FAQ exists to clarify how this subreddit works, why certain rules exist, and what we expect from participants. Everything below is already reflected in the subreddit’s About, Rules, and Posting Guidelines sections.


What kind of community is r/dogtraining?

r/dogtraining is a support forum focused on dog training and behavior using a least intrusive, minimally aversive (LIMA) approach.

This is stated directly in the subreddit’s Welcome section and rules.

That means:

This is a defined scope, not a judgment of individuals.

Why aren’t all training methods allowed? Isn’t this censorship or an echo chamber?

No. It’s scope + safety.

This is a support forum, not a debate stage. Dog training advice affects real dogs and real people. Allowing aversive or force-based methods in a general advice space creates several problems:

  • High risk of misuse by inexperienced owners
  • Conflicting guidance that confuses people who are already overwhelmed
  • Normalization of techniques with known behavioral fallout

Because of that, this community limits advice to methods that are:

  • Evidence-based
  • Least intrusive
  • Appropriate to give safely at scale

Philosophical debates about training styles belong elsewhere. This subreddit exists to help people train dogs, not litigate methodology.

Why is moderation so strict for a dog training sub?

Because dog training spaces are uniquely prone to:

Moderation here exists to:

  • Prevent unsafe or harmful advice from spreading
  • Keep guidance consistent with current science
  • Protect dogs and owners from avoidable fallout

Moderators are volunteers doing ongoing triage, not enforcing ideology.

Why was my post removed or held for review?

ALL POSTS CREATED ARE MANUALLY REVIEWED. When you create a new post, your post will be placed in our review queue. Yes, it can take up to a day to review a post. Your post will receive a comment from our automod bot with a link to the approval guide. if you do not complete the approval guide instructions, your post may be rejected.

Common reasons your post may be rejected include:

  • The question is already addressed in the wiki or pinned resources
  • Required information was missing
  • The advice requested falls outside the LIMA/force-free scope
  • The post didn’t follow posting or flair guidelines

Posts may also sit in review during high-volume periods, holidays, or emergencies. That’s a capacity issue, not a personal one.

Why am I expected to read the wiki and guidelines first?

Because effective behavior change requires context.

Dog behavior depends on:

  • Environment and management
  • Learning history
  • Reinforcement patterns
  • Stress, health, and daily routines

The wiki exists so advice doesn’t start from zero every time. Reading it helps you:

  • Ask better questions
  • Understand the advice you receive
  • Avoid common mistakes that slow progress

Why isn’t the community more “hand-holding”?

This is not personal. Our volunteer moderators are not playing favorites, and we’re not judging anyone.

However:

  • Much of the advice here comes from professionals with decades of experience
  • That expertise is shared for free
  • We expect people seeking help to put in some effort by reading, reflecting, and trying the provided resources

If someone needs step-by-step, individualized coaching or is unwilling to engage with the freely available materials, a public forum is not the right tool. In those cases, working directly with a qualified professional and paying for their time is appropriate.

This is also stated plainly in the Welcome section.

Why isn't my comment showing up?

All comments are manually reviewed before they appear publicly.

If your comment is pending, it simply hasn't been approved yet. It has not been removed. Our volunteer moderation team reviews comments as quickly as possible, but we have jobs, families, and dogs of our own, so there can be a delay. We appreciate your patience.

Common reasons a comment may be removed rather than approved:

  • It recommends aversive tools or methods (Rule 1)
  • It contains dominance-based framing or outdated training theory
  • It gives health advice (Rule 6)
  • It violates another community rule

If your comment was removed and you believe this was in error, you're welcome to reach out via modmail.

Are professionals here trying to “prove” force-free training works?

No one is trying to win arguments.

This community uses LIMA/force-free methods because they:

  • Are effective
  • Are supported by learning science
  • Carry the lowest risk of harm
  • Are appropriate for public advice

The goal is outcomes with minimal fallout, not ideological purity.

Is disagreement allowed?

Yes, within scope.

Allowed:

  • Discussion about implementation
  • Differences in reinforcement strategies
  • Management choices
  • Learning theory applications

Not allowed:

  • Promoting dominance-based or aversive methods
  • Rebranding punishment as “just information” or “balanced”
  • Arguing against the subreddit’s foundational rules

Disagreement is fine. Ignoring the rules is not.

What if this community isn’t a good fit for me?

That’s okay.

Not every space is for everyone. You're not going to hurt anyone's feelings by deciding this isn't the space for you. We encourage anyone who feels that the rules here are a hard pass to find other communities that better suit your personal preferences. That said, if you choose to engage here, you will be expected to do so within the scope of the rules. Content that breaks the rules will not be approved, and you might get a rule reminder. We're happy to provide you with education and resources should you wish to learn more about alternatives to using escape/avoidance for behavior modification.

Bottom line

These rules exist to:

  • Protect dogs
  • Protect owners
  • Respect the unpaid labor of contributors
  • Keep advice clear, consistent, and low-risk

Boundaries aren’t about control. Boundaries keep relationships healthy.
Enforcing those boundaries is our responsibility.


r/Dogtraining 16d ago

industry Save the Date! - Upcoming major dog training event list for 2026 Jul - 2026 Dec

14 Upvotes

Welcome to the quarterly Event List!

Here we crowdsource upcoming events in the animal training world (for the next 6 months) to add to our calendars, and help each other plan to expand our knowledge (and meet CEU requirements).

REQUIREMENTS

Events should comply with the following standards:

  • Organisation/trainer running the event meets the criteria for trainer recommendations in the posting guidelines and wiki guide
  • Major conferences, workshops and events only - it should be something that is sufficiently extensive and/or unique that it might be worth travelling and paying accommodation for if you are not directly local to it. Use this as a hypothetical question if it is an online event/conference. Events run by individual trainers should be by an already industry-recognised expert and offering CEUs; think Shikashio running his Aggression in Dogs conference or a Terry Ryan Chicken Camp, not your local CPDT-KA running their first public workshop.
  • Professional - information provided sufficiently in-depth to have value to a professional as well as a hobbyist. No workshops intended solely for the general public, please.
  • Events should be time-limited: the purpose of these posts is to help us all not miss events that have application/attendance deadlines and happen once a year at most, particularly at variable time schedules. If it's a webinar that is available on demand or has access granted every few months like clockwork, it's not suitable for this thread - send a modmail to suggest it be included in the wiki instead.
  • The event will happen in the next 6 months (or the application deadline closes within the next 6 months). If the event is further in the future, it should go in a future quarterly thread. There is a separate Automod comment below to drop the names of such future events here as advance alerts with limited detail.

Events do not need to be dog-exclusive, just something that dog trainers and keen hobbyists would enjoy! For example, we wouldn't post a cat-only conference, but we would love to see a conference by PPG or IAABC that includes both dog and cat seminars, or a conference by animal behaviour researchers that has broad cross-species applicability.

FORMAT

Please post under the appropriate Automoderator comment below to group events by LOCATION (Online, Europe, North America or Other)

Suggested posting format:

Event Name - the name, obviously, for easy searching
Date - Please post in ISO standard format YYYY-MM-DD to eliminate any risk of confusion between USA and rest of the world date formats
Location - Online or Country-State-City
Organiser - Name of event organiser(s)
Website - link to detailed information
Special info - anything important to know in advance - e.g. early bird price close date, available scholarships, link to facebook group for event where people are organising carpools and accommodation sharing etc.

Code for copying format:

**Event Name** -  
**Date** -   
**Location** -  
**Organiser** -  
**Website** -   
**Special info** -

r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help My dog doesn’t let me sleep

18 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

I really need some advice because we're exhausted.
We have a 1-year-old miniature Dachshund. She's crate trained and has no problem sleeping in her crate. We can put her in the crate at any time, and she's always been comfortable with it.
The problem is that she keeps waking us up during the night. She might suddenly wake up at 3:00 AM and start barking, and once she starts, we can't get back to sleep. This has been happening for almost a year, and honestly, we haven't had a proper night's sleep in all that time.
We've already tried using a white noise machine, but it hasn't helped. We're running out of ideas and don't know what else to do.
Has anyone experienced something similar with a Dachshund or another dog? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. We're desperate to find a solution.
Thank you!


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help Help needed in house training

3 Upvotes

I'm having issues getting our dog house trained. She will be two in September, we got her when she was five months old. She was not housebroken when we got her. She got to the point where she was mostly housebroken within a couple of months of getting her but started to backtrack and lose training within a few months. I House trained her by crate training her and having her go out immediately to go potty when leaving the crate and only letting her be loose in unattended if she had used the bathroom outside. Otherwise, she was on a leash attached to me or in the crate. She started peeing on our rug, even after she had been taken out and peed, and she would be taken out for long enough that if she needed to pee more, she would've done it. But she would come in and pee within 20 minutes. She will also do the same thing with poop nowadays. She will go outside and poop, and then she will poop more inside within half an hour or so. She will also poop and pee in her crate at any point. She can just have been out to use the bathroom 15 minutes before and use the bathroom and Ben walked for 15 to 20 minutes, go back in the crate, and then poop and pee in her crate. She is not adverse to pooping and peeing in the crate. And she will stop in the middle of playing and pee or poop while in the house. You have taken her out for a full walk. She will have gone to the bathroom. You will let her loose and play with her in the house and then at some point sometimes she just stops in peas or poops and then keeps running and playing.

I trained guide dog puppies for guide dogs for the blind for years so I know how to House train a puppy and she was house trained in the same manner that the guy dog puppies are. She has no health conditions. She is a 40 pound lab/pitbull mix.


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help Dog Behavior

5 Upvotes

Why does one of my dogs love laying both fetch and tug of war. The other dog only plays with certain toys, and when they do play they do fetch. The other dogs will play tug of war. Its like the dog thinks the only way to share is doing certain play behaviors. Both are pomeranian but one who plays tug of war is part chihuahua we think.


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

industry Hearing protection recommendations

3 Upvotes

I am looking for any recommendations on hearing protection for our dog trainers and handlers. They still need to be able to hear human clients and the subtle vocal cues that dogs might elicit. Also, ideally something that does not have dangling parts that a puppy might grab or something that if it falls out puppy might swallow. I've known people who have left the dog professions because of hearing loss and tinnitus. I would like to have something to offer to avoid this.

I tried Axil gs extreme (2.0 I think). The sound quality was bad and the directional rendering was useless. They did a good enough job at dampening But ultimately the electronics failed with only maybe a dozen hours of use. They're also not very comfortable I was the only one that I could get to wear them.

I'm prepared to spend up to 100 or so dollars per set, if they last. Unfortunately I know the real military grade stuff goes up to the thousands. But we don't really need that level of protection anyway.


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help Dog Attack - How to move forward?

8 Upvotes

Big thank you to everyone that has provided thoughtful answers and experiences. We are going to make some calls tomorrow and try to find a behaviorist to do a consult. We have also been referred to a rescue that works specifically with pitties that have aggressive histories if her staying here is determined to not be a safe option. Cannot express enough how much reading your histories, stories, and opinions have helped us through this.

Hi all,

Today my 4yo female pitbull mix (owned for about 3 years, about 50 lbs) attacked my 5yo chiweenie mix (owned for about 18 months - she's about 20 lbs). It seemed out of the blue (they were about t feet away from one another, both chewing on toys), though I imagine it wasn't and I didn't pick up on something.

This was not a little snarl and warning nip - my chiweenie sustained a lot of damage, particularly to her face. She is currently at the emergency vet, and doing okay after they patched up the smaller injuries. I'm seeing a specialist in the morning for next steps on how to repair her jaw and cheek/neck area.

While there have been odd behaviors here and there we've had to train out of one or the other, this has absolutely blindsided my partner and I. Clearly we missed some red flags and are beating ourselves up trying to figure out what we did wrong or could have done better.

I'm very concerned about the future of the household. We have an elderly cat, our chiweenie that will be coming home in poor shape, and our pitbull.

She's a pitbull with a bite history now and I'm scared surrendering her would mean a long, crappy stint in a shelter followed by euthanasia (and surrounded by strangers). The idea of euthanizing her through our vet makes me physically ill.

A friend works for a dog training company. She said they treat plenty of dogs that are court ordered to be rehabilitated after an attack, and while it is another insanely expensive bill to pile on top of the other bills I've incurred today, it also sounds like a more optimistic way forward than the above options.

I'm curious if anyone has had any experience with advanced, in-home training after a dog attack, particularly if the dog that was attacked is still in the home. Or if anyone has any resources they could point me towards.

I'm trying not to let my own self-judgement and disappointment get the best of me, and I want to make the best decision possible for everyone to be safe, happy, and healthy in my home going forward. Appreciate any help.

ETA some requested info: When we got the pitbull, we had two other elderly dogs that were smaller than her in the house. She already had resource issues and we worked briefly with a trainer to build on my knowledge of how to handle resource guarding. The older pups passed away towards the end of 2024. They all got along, but were not what I'd call close and didn't play together. We never had any issues with even the smallest snap (that I can recall).

We trialed a few dogs before adopting the chiweenie (same size and breed as one of our dogs that passed), and the chiweenie was the one that seemed to fit the best. The current duo have been pals since we started introducing them. They snuggle together. They wrestle (under supervision) and "check in" during play. They zoom around together and have generally had relaxed body language around one another.

I fostered dogs back in the 2010s and did go through a little training through the rescue that covered some of the basics, including introducing dogs and dog body language. Then I did a more formal training after we had a rough experience (not aggression) with an unfixed male GSD. I'm not an expert by any means, and don't doubt that I could have missed something, because humans don't pick up on the same things.

Chiweenie is home and secluded in one room (kenneled for now to rest) which will be her main domain for the time being. Pitty is in another bedroom with my partner, that will be her domicile for now. We are coordinating to make sure that the cat and chiweenie will not cross paths with the pitbull.


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

help Is it ever too late for desensitization?

27 Upvotes

My girl is about 2.5 years old. Her litter was found in the woods when they were ~4 months old (estimated) and as far as the rescue knows, had not had any human contact in that time. Because we missed that socialization window, she is pretty anxious about anything outside our house/walks around the neighborhood. Car rides - shakes until the point of vomiting. Vet office - shaking and expressing glands when touched for procedures. She does have trazadone to take for travel and before stressful/new situations and it has helped some but the vet thinks she likely needs an increase in medication (not really relevant to this situation overall).

I know that I likely need to buckle down and really focus on desensitization/exposure. Sitting in the car, driving around the neighborhood, through the drive thru, visiting the vet just for treats, etc. And I am ready and willing to put that effort in. But I want to make sure it won't be for nothing. Is it ever too late for this kind of exposure/will I just be stressing her out for no benefit?


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help How to improve contact heel, and also remediate poisoned heel cue

12 Upvotes

Pup is a 9mo Dalmatian x Labrador.

He’s getting on great, and knows a decent number of tricks. He’s got a solid recall, solid sit stay, and solid ‘stop’ whistle command. He’s able to loose leash walk on a 6ft leash.

He can heel… but he hates it. It’s the only thing that I trained using leash pressure and rewards, and is also the only thing that we have some problems with, because I think I poisoned the cue using corrections. He likes to forge ahead on the lead, and I’m not able to get a lot of focus with him off leash, so I have to constantly pull him back in.

We’ve been messing around with a focus/contact heel which has been good fun, and because I’ve not put it on a cue yet he’s pretty happy doing it. It’s basically just the case of having a handful of kibble held high at my left side and rewarding when he’s in the proper condition. Literally only started today, but he seems to enjoy it and I’d like tips on how to proof this!

If possible - how do I fix his regular heel as well? The focus heel is just for fun, but I do want him to know a chill heel for when we’re walking in busy places. How do I fix this? Every time I say ‘heel’ he sort of disengages from me. He’ll go into the heel position, but just isn’t very engaged and once he forges ahead I feel like I cant do anything to get him back. Because he’s disengaged, he’s not all that interested in food either.

He’s also lately been losing interest in food as much as before, so I’ve been trying to use toy rewards. But it’s been so hot lately, it’s quite hard to use tug or a retrieve as a reward when we’re both a bit too hot.


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help My dog won’t go potty!

2 Upvotes

Okay so my dog is fully potty trained. She is terrified of thunder and fireworks. Well after July 4th she literally will not step foot outside the house to go potty past the sun going down. I used to take her out at 10:20ish every night & she would go no problem… even sit out there & look at the sky for a couple minutes. It’s like this July 4th was extra traumatic or something for her. The only way she’ll go potty is if I literally carry her out onto the grass. She then go with no problem??? I’m so confused! It’s like we both know she needs to go, but she chooses to hold her stuff rather than just go. Somebody give me some advice on how to get her to go back out on her own. I know she has to go but she literally refuses to walk out there herself. And if she does go she’ll just pee and run back in the house but I know she has to poop too… HELP. I’ll try anything.


r/Dogtraining 1d ago

help Is there a book for bringing home a new baby to your dog?

4 Upvotes

I swear there was a good one but my Google searches are leaving me empty handed.


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

help Transitioning Stray to Yard

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

25 Upvotes

Long story short: I'm relocating a young (under 2) stray female (spayed) to my yard next week and looking for advice and tips for preparations. We are lining up a vet and have experience with training (reactive but not strays). The yard is enclosed, but the fence could be jumped or climbed with enough will. We have no other dogs, and we have one indoor cat who has previously trained two cat-reactive dogs.

Concerns:

-alert barking, related to resource/territory guarding*

-neighbor dog (not neutered)

-neighbor chickens*

-keeping her in the yard

-bathing*

-nighttime, alone in the yard

Any general tips for bringing a friendly stray straight from the street to my yard are also welcome as well as these specifics.

Long story long:

I have made friends with a young female stray at the local schoolyard where I roller blade. I do not know her history, but about 3 weeks ago she was spayed and dropped off at the corner near the schoolyard with the green-dyed antiseptic spray still on her and fresh stitches. She was skin and bones and had discoloration from a neck chain. It appears she carried and nursed a litter.

I have spent the last few weeks, caring for her, feeding her, and observing. I have trained her to respond to whistles, and she recalls to whistles. She still has some puppy behaviors that she's holding onto, no big deal there. She does not get along with the other strays that frequent the corner shop despite her initial friendly efforts. Unfortunately, this has led to several fights, including one 3 days ago that ended with her tossed around under a bus. Lucky, lucky dog survived with a few scrapes which she has let me inspect and clean to some degree.

However, she is afraid of water. Anytime I pour her water into a dish or try to pour water on her to clean her or her wounds, she runs away. I have been able to reward train her to be OK with water bottles of various sizes around, but as soon as water is flowing, she's outta there. Due to recent renovations, we still have a tub sitting in the yard. I was hoping to fill it before she arrives and then get her in.

*I've only dealt with dogs who LOVE water, so specifically looking for advice on how to introduce her to water so I can clean her roadrash from the bus incident.

*She has learned bad habits from the other stray dogs. She began resource guarding (including me as a resource) to keep the other strays away. Since it's still developing and not full blown aggression around resources, what are tips to divert this behavior from developing further?

*How do I introduce her to the yard and immediately have her uninterested in the chickens and uninterested in squeezing out of any holes in the fence? My plan is to play, play, play, reward, feed, play, play, play, and basically surround her with interesting toys and attention so that she is exhausted by nighttime and uninterested in the chickens. Anything else that would help?

Green Flags:

+whistle recall

+she stays near to me during the 2+ hours that I'm skating

+fetch

+loves pets as long as no water is around

+reward motivated, very eager

+pure luck runs through her veins


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

help How to Get Puppy to Go to the Bathroom on Walks/Out in the World

7 Upvotes

I have a 4 month old female Corgi puppy.

She goes to the bathroom outside in the backyard just fine. But she won't go to the bathroom on walks, or out in the world in general. She just holds it until we get home. She has held it for hours when out at a lacrosse game once.

She also is very unconfident around other dogs, and very easily rolls over/goes on her side, and in general is nervous around other dogs. And I wonder if this is in any way connected to this issue.

So just looking at how to break this habit. Especially as I am hoping to have her for agility

Things I've tried:

Taking her for a walk around when she should be having to pee, and after drinking a lot of water.


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

help House Breaking a 4yr old Black Lab

4 Upvotes

My sister couldnt take care of their 4yr old Black Lab anymore. He has separation anxiety and has been very close to me, so I didnt want him to go to a shelter. I took him.

Now, I live in apartment with a balcony. My dogs go there to potty when we are at work. The Lab used to go there to pee when i dog sit. But i think because someone gave him shit for peeing right beside their feet, he wont go there anymore.

Nobody can bring him outside except for me. So from the time I go to work (130pm) until I get home (1145pm), I need him to relieve himself.

I bought a pee/fake grass pad, thinking he will associate it with the outside. I take him to the balcony, on a short leash, the moment we wake up.

But all he does is sniff around and then sit or lay down. He really waits for our walks in the morning, before I leave and when i get home, to go potty.

Im at my wits end on how to fix this. I dont want him to end up with a UTI.

Any suggestions on how I can do this? Please.


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

constructive criticism welcome Looking for input on this play? I am hoping we have made the progress we needed to!

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

15 Upvotes

As the tile states, I am looking for input on the body language between our two pups. They are currently 6 and 3. When we first got the second dog (the larger male) they had a few fights that seemed to stem from resource guarding/insecurity from the male, the female never *seemed* to start the fight but she did dominate/finish them. It has now been almost 2 years since they have had any fights, and in the last year we have seen a real relaxing in their interactions and honestly a fair bit of affection.

I would like to know if this play looks like they are happy/comfortable/confident with each other. We took SO MANY tips from this subreddit and I am finally feeling confident enough to post their interactions.


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

community 2026/07/20 [Loose Leash Walking Virtual Workshop]

4 Upvotes

Welcome to the fortnightly loose leash walking virtual workshop!

Join us as we compete with the squirrels, cats, other dogs, fresh urine scents and things that go zoooooooom!

Resources

Articles (All have videos embedded)

Youtube (Many of these are videos which are embedded in the above articles)

See our page on leash reactivity for help managing and training dogs that bark and lunge while on leash.


r/Dogtraining 3d ago

resource My Honest Review of the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Professional (KPA DTP) Program: Is It Worth It?

30 Upvotes

I recently graduated from the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Professional (KPA DTP) program.

Before enrolling, I spent quite a bit of time researching KPA and reading reviews from previous graduates. Their experiences were genuinely helpful and played a big part in my decision to enroll. Like anyone considering a significant commitment of time and money, I also had plenty of questions:

  • What's the workload really like?
  • Is it worth the money?
  • Who is it best suited for?
  • What's difficult?
  • What do you wish you knew before starting?

Now that I've completed the program myself, I thought I'd share my own experience in the hope that it helps someone else who's considering KPA.

A quick disclaimer: this isn't sponsored or affiliated with KPA. I paid for the program myself, and I'm deliberately avoiding proprietary course content or assignment details. My goal is simply to help prospective students make an informed decision.

Why I Enrolled

I'm from India and, before KPA, I wasn't a professional dog trainer. I enrolled because I wanted to better understand and help my Labrador, Flash.

Flash developed dog reactivity, and after working with several local trainers, I became increasingly uncomfortable with the punishment-based methods they recommended. Rather than continuing to search for "the right trainer," I decided to learn the science myself.

Before enrolling in the DTP program, I'd already completed KPA's Dog Trainer Foundations course, attended webinars, read extensively, and followed trainers such as Ken Ramirez, Emily Larlham and Grisha Stewart. Those experiences gave me a solid introduction to modern, evidence-based training, but they also showed me how much more there was to learn.

I wanted a structured, comprehensive education rather than continuing to piece information together from books, YouTube, podcasts, and social media. That ultimately led me to KPA.

Why KPA?

There are several excellent education programs available today, so why did I choose KPA?

For me, it came down to two reasons.

The first was Ken Ramirez. I'd followed his work for quite some time, and the more I learned about his approach to animal training, the more convinced I became that KPA was the kind of education I was looking for. The fact that he served as KPA's Chief Training Officer gave me a great deal of confidence in the program's philosophy and standards.

The second was the instructors. Because my primary goal was to better understand and help Flash with his reactivity, I was naturally drawn to Emma Parsons. I'd read her book Click to Calm while working with Flash, and her approach resonated with me.

If you're considering KPA, I'd encourage you to spend some time researching the instructors before enrolling. Read their books, watch their presentations, and listen to interviews or podcasts. Every instructor brings different experiences, interests, and teaching styles, and you'll spend six months learning from them.

The Basics

The virtual program lasted about six months and consisted of four units, online lessons, written assignments, practical training, video submissions, live workshops, and final assessments.

It's a hands-on program. You're constantly applying what you've learned, receiving feedback, refining your skills, and trying again. One of the parts of the program I appreciated most was the opportunity to receive detailed feedback, apply it, and continually improve my work. That iterative process probably accelerated my learning more than anything else. I also appreciated how clear the expectations were from the beginning. I always knew what was expected and when.

Questions I Wish Someone Had Answered Before I Enrolled

How much time does it take?
I typically spent around an hour a day working through the lessons and readings, along with one to two hours of training on most days. Overall, it was a meaningful but manageable commitment. Staying ahead of schedule made a huge difference, and I'd strongly recommend doing the same.

Can beginners succeed?
Yes. I wasn't a professional dog trainer when I enrolled. That said, curiosity, consistency, and a willingness to accept feedback are far more important than prior experience. If you're completely new to modern, evidence-based training, I'd recommend completing KPA's Dog Trainer Foundations course first.

Is it academically difficult?
I didn't find the concepts unnecessarily complicated, but the course expects you to think critically and apply what you've learned. Success comes from understanding the principles rather than memorizing techniques.

Is the program more theoretical or practical?
Both. The theory provides the foundation, but the real learning comes from applying it through hands-on training, video submissions, and instructor feedback. It's very much a course where you learn by doing.

Is it worth the cost?
For me, yes. It wasn't inexpensive, but I came away with far more than a certificate. The program fundamentally changed how I think about learning, behavior, and training, and that's something I expect will continue to benefit me long after graduation.

What the Curriculum Feels Like

Without discussing proprietary content, I'd describe the four units like this:

  • Unit 1 builds your foundation and introduces KPA's approach to training, teaching, and learning.
  • Unit 2 is where the program really steps up. The practical expectations increase noticeably, and I found myself paying much closer attention to my mechanics, timing, observations, and planning. It also changed how I read canine body language. Despite living with dogs for years, I realized I'd been missing far more than I thought.
  • Unit 3 was my favourite. It shifts from learning individual skills to understanding why behavior happens and how to solve problems systematically instead of memorizing techniques. It also introduced me to Dr. Susan Friedman, whose work has had a lasting impact on how I approach behaviour.
  • Unit 4 brings everything together with a focus on professionalism, ethics, teaching, and certification.

Three Moments That Stayed With Me

A few moments capture my experience better than any overview.

The first was the second-species requirement.

I initially tried arranging opportunities to work with sheep and chickens, but reliable access proved difficult. Eventually, I connected with someone who rescues cats, and she generously allowed me to work with one of her cats instead. It became one of the highlights of the program because it reinforced something I still think about today: learning principles don't belong to dogs—they apply across species.

The second was when Flash sustained a couple of minor injuries during the course.

Fortunately, I'd completed most of my coursework well ahead of schedule, so I could pause training without worrying about deadlines. Had I been working week-to-week, the situation would have been far more stressful. That experience shaped the single biggest piece of advice I'd give future students.

The final moment was the day my diploma arrived.

The email confirming I'd passed was exciting, but holding the certificate a few weeks later made the whole experience feel real. It wasn't just a qualification—it represented six months of consistent work and a fundamentally different way of thinking about behavior.

The People Made the Biggest Difference
One of the things I'll remember most about KPA is the people I learned alongside and from.

Emma Parsons was exactly the kind of instructor I'd hoped to learn from. She has a rare ability to explain difficult concepts clearly, answer questions thoughtfully, and create an environment where no question feels too basic. One thing that particularly stood out was that she scheduled an additional Zoom session outside the planned curriculum simply to answer our questions and share her experience. I appreciated that she took the time to do that when she didn't have to.

Kelly Leisten also deserves recognition. She was consistently encouraging, thoughtful in her feedback, and helped create a learning environment where questions and mistakes were treated as a natural part of the learning process.

The instructors didn't just teach positive reinforcement—they modelled it. Their feedback was specific, constructive, and encouraging. Having grown up in a much more traditional education system, that learning environment genuinely left a lasting impression on me.

 

My Biggest Takeaway

If I had to summarize KPA in one sentence, it would be this:

It didn't teach me what to think—it taught me how to think about behavior.

The program wasn't about memorizing techniques or finding the "right" answer to every training problem. Instead, it taught me to slow down, observe more carefully, ask better questions, and make decisions based on the individual animal in front of me.

Graduating didn't make me feel like I had all the answers. If anything, it made me realize how much there still is to learn. To me, that's the mark of a truly good education.

Three Tips I'd Give Every Future Student

1. Stay Ahead

If I could give only one piece of advice, this would be it.

Finish the lessons, readings, and assignments ahead of schedule whenever you can.

Life happens. Dogs get injured. Family emergencies come up. Because I stayed ahead, Flash's injuries became an inconvenience rather than a crisis. That buffer removed an enormous amount of stress and allowed me to focus on him instead of worrying about deadlines.

2. Plan for the Second Species Early

This caught me more off guard than anything else.

Finding a suitable second species wasn't particularly difficult—finding consistent access was.

Start thinking about it before the course begins and have a couple of backup options. If one plan falls through, you'll be glad you prepared in advance.

3. Be Curious

Don't treat the course as a checklist to complete or a certificate to earn.

Ask questions. Participate in discussions. Learn from your instructors and classmates. Reflect on the feedback you receive, even when it challenges how you've always done things.

The more curious and engaged you are, the more you'll get out of the program.

Anything I Didn't Like?

Very little.

The only part of the curriculum that wasn't particularly relevant to me was the business content. That's not because it wasn't good—I simply wasn't taking KPA to start a training business. I enrolled to become a better trainer for my own dogs.

Several classmates who planned to train professionally found those lessons valuable, so I see this as a matter of personal goals rather than a weakness of the program.

Beyond that, I don't have many criticisms. The curriculum was well structured, expectations were clear, and the feedback was consistently useful.

Would I Recommend It?

I'd recommend KPA to people who genuinely enjoy learning. If you're naturally curious, willing to practice, and interested in understanding why behavior happens—not just memorizing techniques—I think you'll get tremendous value from it.

On the other hand, if your primary goal is simply to earn a certification quickly rather than invest time understanding the science behind behavior, I don't think KPA is the right fit.

If KPA Isn't an Option

Not everyone has the time or financial resources to enroll in a program like KPA, and that's completely understandable.

Whether or not you decide to enroll, I'd still encourage you to explore the work of Ken Ramirez, Dr. Susan Friedman, Emma Parsons, Leslie McDevitt, Grisha Stewart, Kiki Yablon, and Juliana DeWillems. Their books, lectures, webinars, and other educational content have profoundly influenced how I think about behavior, and I continue to learn from them.

Final Thoughts

Before enrolling, my goal was simple:

Help Flash.

Six months later, I left with a much deeper understanding of learning and behavior, stronger observation skills, greater confidence as a trainer and teacher, and an even stronger relationship with Flash.

I'm grateful to Karen Pryor, Ken Ramirez, Emma Parsons, Kelly Leisten, the entire KPA staff, my classmates, and the many educators whose work has advanced modern, science-based animal training.

If this review helps someone decide whether KPA is the right fit for them, then it was worth writing.

Questions?

If you're considering the KPA DTP program and have questions that I haven't covered here, feel free to leave a comment below. I'll do my best to answer questions about my own experience while recognizing that every student's experience will naturally be a little different. Keeping questions in the comments also makes this thread a more useful resource for future prospective students.


r/Dogtraining 2d ago

help Contradictory information

1 Upvotes

I've just got back from the beach with my 10 month old borador pup.

Walking into the beach, I didn't have much choice with her interacting with other dogs as there's only one entrance and dogs came running to her as we got on the beach. She reacted well by sitting and letting the dogs approach and not pulling on her slip lead.

After a brief interaction, I calmed her down enough to put her on the long line as I talked to the few people that asked about her. Her recall isn't great with this many distractions, so she can play with the long line on. They seemed to not want any more to do with us and moved further down the beach.

We find a quiet section of the beach and play with her ourselves with her occasionally running to try to get to other dogs and people.

On our way out was a family that were playing with a ball that she REALLY wanted to get to, and we needed to walk past them to get out. So I put her slip lead back on. The walk out was really difficult, she would sit for a moment then rocket to the end of the lead, repeatedly. With the advice I've read and seen, I would stop when she pulled and wait for her to come back. The closer we got, the more frantic she got but I stayed patient trying to keep calm.

Upon leaving, my wife who went on ahead told me that the woman of a family that walked past me trying to calm the pup, had told her that she's a vet nurse and I should have let her off lead because all the pulling she was doing was going to hurt her and it was animal cruelty and she was going to report us.

While I agree with she might have got hurt, my thoughts were that was better than her jumping all over the other family, bothering other dogs and then not coming back to me.

How do I respond to this? Did I implement the advice wrong or was the woman claiming to be a vet nurse wrong? She could have spoken to me, she walked past me to get to my wife to complain at her.


r/Dogtraining 3d ago

help Evil delivery driver barking and charge, then sits/play

3 Upvotes

3yo intact Male Bichon, 19lbs, not overweight.

I've tried a dozen different techniques to stop the behavior and am at wits end.

Amazon/UPS/FedEx/random vehicle will trigger immediate crazed barking. School bus? Nope just sits.

Individual approaching the door, crazed barking. Once inside- nothing. If outside with individual, nothing. Does attempt not jump on the person.

Today I didn't see a vehicle behind bushes when we went outside and he charged/barking at the driver, making the guy jump onto the car. I have got to correct this behavior asap.

Have tried-

Thanking/treats/away from the window/door.

'Friend' keyword with sit/treat.

Blocking the views of windows/doors (mixed, some vehicles are unique sounding).

Harnessed every time going outside is currently the method being used and keeping him right next to me.

Will gladly play 'fetch' with any person/fedex driver that throws a ball for him.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/guide/?screen_view_count=3#wiki_barking

https://web.archive.org/web/20210303022853/https://clickertraining.com/node/3931

I understand this is probably multiple problems at once.


r/Dogtraining 3d ago

help How can I stop the dog I'm dogsitting from running out the door when we go on walks?

3 Upvotes

I've gotten him to sit and wait at the door, even while It's open. He knows not to go until I give permission. In this case, I use the word "let's go". However, as soon as I saw that, he runs out the door. I'm especially concerned about it now since he tore his CCL. I've been working on trying to loose-leash walk him, but this is the first dog I've had in my care, and It's been tough for me. I am trying to work on it though.

It feels like there's three things here.

Sitting and waiting at the door until given permission; check.

Walking out the house in a proper manner and not bolting.

Learning to walk by my side instead of tugging hard.

I've been following some of the guides on the community wiki. The first few videos specifically. One issue I do face with training him indoors though, is someone lives in the living room, and I don't get much training opportunity there.


r/Dogtraining 4d ago

help Territorial regarding “her” person

2 Upvotes

We have a female Malinois mix, age 4. Rescue, probably from a backyard Brewster. She’s not aggressive except when it comes to competition for affection. If she is with one of “her” people and getting attention, when another dogs comes by to visit, she can get snappy. She’s made contact with our other dogs, but never drawn blood.

We have done all the sit/stay training, and are looking for activities to work her mind as well. While I’m waiting to hear back from outside trainers, does anyone have any specific advice?


r/Dogtraining 4d ago

help Barking at night

1 Upvotes

My 6mos old corgi keeps barking at night. She got spayed several days ago although I don’t think it’s related. She’s fine a lot of the day but then at night she just goes and barks at seemingly nothing. She is crate trained but I haven’t used it much lately so I might try to retrain her into a bedtime routine. Last night she went to bed at 2am and woke up at 6am

What else I tried:
- She has trazodone due to post op so I tried giving her that but even then she was only asleep for four hours last night
- I tried putting music on the tv to drown out sound it didn’t work
-I tried putting her in her crate but she would not stop barking after even an hour or so
- I tried just locking her in my room with me but she just scratches at the door
-I gave her a bone before bed, I set up her treat puzzle, I took her out on a short walk


r/Dogtraining 4d ago

help 8 months old dog shreds her own bed

1 Upvotes

How do I stop black dog (8 months old) from shredding everything around her, but specially her own bed and blanket?

https://imgur.com/gallery/8-months-old-dog-shreds-bed-Uv8Pix1

Already tried a bunch of different things:

- Long walks

- two/three beds (one for each, plus one extra)

- Bones (synthetic or organic)

- Kong

- Cameras with mic, so I can call her out when I'm in another room

- Removing both her bed, blanket and toys (but its winter now, so I couldn't do it for more than 1 day, when we had warmer days)

But she always does this when I'm not around, either sleeping, or on not at home for any reason.

Even short periods may (or may not) lead to this.


r/Dogtraining 4d ago

help Any of you had success with teaching emotional regulation to a nervous/hyperactive dog?

Thumbnail
1 Upvotes

r/Dogtraining 4d ago

help Senior dog, new house, new rules.

1 Upvotes

To keep this concise, I just moved states, and into a larger but older home. The bedrooms are all upstairs, but the stairs are narrow and steep and I can’t have my aging dog trying to go up them.

The problem- she’s always slept near me. She slept in my bed for years, but the past year or so I’ve trained her to sleep in her own bed in the same room. Night 1 of blocking the stairs and she did not do well, pawing at the gate and trying to find a way around it, whining, howling.
Usually I would not reward this anxious behavior by coming down or leaving the bedroom, but I want to make sure I’m doing the right thing so we can make this transition healthy for both of us. Tips?