Reporting bugs:

I kind of impulse bought this as a winter project. How did I do?

Looks like someone has ground material out of my crankshaft at some point. Why would someone do this?

I'm learning as i go so I apologise if this is normal.

My Austin Mini Pickup has been off the road and stuck in the garage for nearly three years. After a bit of preparation before the first start-up, it fired up right away. Everything sounds exactly as it should, so hopefully it has come through its long hibernation without any damage.

My 82 Mk3 came with Lucas L794 Amber front indicators..nowhere did i find another Austin mini with L794 .. chatgpt says some export models went with it..

Has anyone seen those on a mini before ? They're not cheap compared to the OG L594 though.

Im located in Lebanon 🇱🇧, so export..

Just got my 1985 listed as classic for road tax so looking at putting it back on the road for the first time in quite a while. It’s an engine swap and quite modified just wondered who was good to try for insurance quotes at the moment in the UK?

Used to use Flux but they fibbed over their admin fee last time so would rather use someone else.

If the switch on the right is on off switch, what does the off slider position do?

If i turn on the fan using the switch on the right and the slider is in the off position, what does it actually do 🫠..?

Hi all!
Planning a full audio upgrade for my Mini: 3-way component speakers up front and a single 10" sub in the trunk.
My goal is a super clean, OEM-plus look by building a enclosure into the spare tire recess so I don't lose cargo space. If you've done a stealth enclosure in a Mini, could you share photos or details on your box volume/clearance?
Thanks!!

So, other than a couple of small patch repairs, I have completed the shell restoration. Now I know I can weld, and I know I can turn spanners, so this part of the restoration has gone ok.

I have found myself really slowing down, as one thing i know im rubbish at is paint! Realistically, it's the next step and I'm procrastinating over moving any further.

I have never sprayed anything past small items and touch ups with rattle cans. I have decent size compressor i can use, but im really not looking forward to it.

I do not have the funds or desire to send the shell for a 'proper respray', and im not after a showroom finish. I would also like to be able to say i did everyt part of the car myself. The goal is 'looks alright', as it is more of a toy to play with the engine, driveability, etc than to try and win awards.

Flat grey (think audi 'nardo' grey, but slightly darker) is the colour we have kind of settled on for the main part of the car, with a black roof, and black everything else thats usually chrome.

Has anybody got and hints and tips for someone whos never touched a spray gun before in getting a respectable finish. 2k? or base and topcoat? plus the million other questions!

Googled this part number but got no results. Can someone point me in the right direction for the bearings I need?

I'm doing my first ever build on an engine so it's all a learning experience for me. Standard 998 spec build.

Thank you. 🙂

i really like these seats but wondering how they would work in my MK1 mini https://corbeau.com/products/baja-low-back?variant=46087138181277

Hi again

Recently made a post about a knocking sound from the left front wheel.

https://www.reddit.com/r/classicminis/s/x3N6E2Vgbz Thanks to everybody who took their time and gave ideas on what to check.

I saw the front subframe front teardrop mounts were ripped apart, and the subframe was not attached to the body in the front. So I figured, maybe that was the reason for the knocking sound. Well it wasn't. But I think I figured out what it is, its the bush in the lower arm pin, when hitting it with my hand, I hear a knocking sound.

But the question I have for you today: There was quite a big gap between the teardrop mount and the subframe, so I used these shims from Minispares: 2A4292

I bought 8, fitted 6 of them in the left side, and made a custom shim for the right side. My question is, can it be true the gap is so big? Each shim is 1.4mm thick. Or is something terribly wrong? To me it seems wrong. But, Minispares does have this in the shim description: "You might be surprised how many of these were fitted to your car when it came out the factory". So maybe its not that wrong? I bought the rear mounts and tower bolts as well, but havent changed them yet. I also bought a fitting kit, with all bolt, washers and nuts, but because of the gap, the bolt were not long enough. I used the old ones, they looked fine, so no worries. I still feel like something is wrong.

Thanks in advance

Hi all, has anyone installed a stereo and speaker set up from scratch on an older mini before?

I’m looking to install this stereo from classic car stereos (for the retro look), but all my fuses on the fuse board under the bonnet are occupied, so how do I go about powering the stereo? Not really interested in using an amplifier either - just going to look at wiring 2 speakers to the head unit that’ll sit under the rear seats.

Vehicle: 1987 Austin Mini 1000

I’ve seen this person online who makes bespoke fresh stereo wiring kits, but if there’s an easier way to do it, I’m all ears.

If anyone can send a quick breakdown of what they did, that’d be much appreciated.

The other wires are for the roof light.

I thought it was an earth for behind the dash under the radio area but does not fit on that thread, then I thought it might be a rear lights earth but it's not for there either.

1996 Mini Cooper 1.3 SPI in British Racing Green!!!!

Proper Right hand drive and Manual!!!

Clean washington title

Imported from Japan, gone through for all mechanical aspects. Sound deadened floor board, firewall, rear quarters and rear seat back.

Working AC!!!

New items include rims, tires, bearings, brakes, lights, clutch, british flag carpet, tinted windows, radio and speakers.

This Mini is car show ready and you can drive in anywhere!!!! Won best import in oak harbor car show last year and an award at the Twin City Idlers show in Stanwood this year!!

Only con is a small amount of rust is on the lower skin of the drivers side door.

Asking 15,000. No trades.

Located in Oak Harbor, Wa

Hi all - I have a 1990 JDM Auto 998cc Rover Mini. The original suspension is really worn and even the tiniest bump will make the car jump up and down. Any good recommendation on what and where to buy the right parts? I have a good mechanics that knows how to work on the classic mini, but I am not too sure what exact parts are required and which website I should be purchasing from (I am in NJ, USA).

Thanks everyone!!

Technically not a Mini but it pretty much is

Hey everyone! New to owning a classic mini and ended up with a 1995 JDM Mini Cooper. Long story short - I noticed that it was running poor/stalling when the engine got warmed up, and after speaking to a mechanic who works on them (but isn't available until September due to a knee operation), he said I needed to replace the temperature sensor fitting under the inlet manifold. I'm just double checking as I know these minis are a bit pecular - is this the correct part? https://www.minispares.com/gtr307-spi-temperature-transmitter-with-plastic-end-for-1992-96

I'll also attach a picture of the engine itself. I would go digging but it's a complete rats nest so I'd rather find out here first. Thanks!