Picked up some pioneer CS-06 for fun and trying to tune them up. They are in great shape but the capacitors definitely need to be replaced, and I'm having a hard time finding the right ones to buy. I definitely want some quality ones made for loudspeakers, like from ClairtyCap. Could someone help me with a link to buy the right ones? Need two 1.7uf 63v and two 7uf 63v. Thanks! First time doing audio work so any advice helps.

I was cleaning this unit after I received no sound and I noticed that r221 r206 and vr 201 are missing. I ended up printing a schematic for it and found no such parts in the diagram.

I just picked up one of these subs cheap and noticed it has a heartbeat sound when idle (the sub clicks subtly back and forth in a steady rhythm and is noticeable when no audio is playing). Sounds like bad caps somewhere in the circuit. The pulsing seems to pull the voice coil and cone back just slightly then moves it forward, like the amp is rhythmically applying a negative charge to the voice coils. I've included a link to a video of the pulsing. The pulsing continues while music is playing but is overpowered by actual sound signals driving the sub.

Anyway, I pulled the amp out and found two swollen caps on the PSU board, so I replaced those. Didnt fix the issue, so there must be more bad caps. I ended up replacing all caps on the power supply board including the large 100uf 160V filter caps. I've heard replacing these will cure a known hum issue but that did not fix my issue.

I am now thinking it is likely something on the power amp board (there are three boards: the PSU, the power amp and the preamp (input). Any ideas what kind of failed component would cause this? There are more caps on the power amp board I can swap out, though I have already pulled and tested a few and they are all fine (they are all visually fine).

I love these Sunfire subs and don't want to give up on this one yet. Let me know if you have any ideas!

I bought this on ebay.

Bowers and Wilkins 702 S3.

It looks like the edges of the rubber on the woofers has wear. Looks as if some of the top layer got rubbed off? Or it's something else. This is present on the outer edge and inner edge all around on each bass woofer (3 bass woofers total).

Speaker seems to be working and sounding fine. I just wonder if it's going to last for a good amount of time. I got a different open box speaker from a different seller, to pair with this speaker, and the rubber on that one looks new, uniform, no wear.

So been wanting to find an old receiver for a home office stereo 2.0. Last week I came across a Luxman R-115 for a good price? $200 on FB marketplace. Apparently the owner received it from her late father and receiver was working previously. I went over to there house and we got it hooked up and it would not play. Pushed all the buttons and played with a few things and suddenly it started to play on the FM antenna which is all I could use as I did not bring anything else but some speakers. Sound came out when I tried to use a patch cable to plug up the signal processor as the on/off switch seemed to do nothing. I disconnected the patch cable and hooked it back up and now no sound again. I let her know that I'm not any electrician and not sure I wanted to risk buying it. She threw out an offer of $50 and I instantly accepted which now I'm wondering if that was smart or not. I took it home and hooked it up to FM and my wiim pro. I could not get any sound and started playing with buttons again and then out of nowhere sound came on when I hit the cd direct a few times. Then turned off and back on and no sound again. I called our local repair guy who unfortunatly has a 6 week back log. He suggested i try to just clean the unit and maybe try some deoxit. I'm not sure how comfortable i'm doing this as I would hate to make it worse. I don't have electronic skills but I've built a few desktop computers over the years. Any suggestions on how to clean this unit and see if it's something simple before I pay a $50 non refundable deposit so I can get on his 6 week waiting list.

I have an RCA VLT-51 Ann Arbor console stereo, and I attempted to replace the needle. While I was changing it, a little rubber piece broke out, and now the needle won’t stay in place.

I’ve attached a few pictures because I’m not sure exactly what broke or what part needs to be replaced. I honestly have no idea where to start.

Do I need:
a new cartridge?
a new tonearm?
some small replacement part?
or is this something I should take to a repair shop?

If it does need professional repair, how do you even find someone who works on vintage record players or console stereos these days?

Any advice, suggestions, or even pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello, I’m a Nashville based audio engineer with years of live sound experience and a lot of other random experience within audio.

I’m trying to find some type of way to get educated in the field so that I’m hirable as a repair tech and it’s feeling really discouraging. I really need hands on experience and I am too broke to buy and fix gear myself at home with YouTube videos so I’ve been looking for trade schools that offer DC electronics or general digital/analog repair courses.

Absolutely nothing in the area lol. There used to be some electronics repair courses that are similar but definitely nothing specific to audio repair. I really expected more in Nashville of all places.

So this is seeming harder than I thought. This is not my dream, just something I am interested in and would love to do as a job. Is my best bet to just try and apprentice under an audio repair person? Like I said I really need hands on experience and someone to ask questions because I am so green in the field of repair.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated and if someone has found a trade school that I overlooked then that would be the miracle I need lol. Thanks for reading.

Got a Pioneer VSX-924 a while back and it’s been solid except for the HDMI inputs. DVD, BD, and SAT all worked fine initially, but over time each one has dropped out on its own. Reconnecting to a different port would fix it temporarily.

Now all three of those inputs are dead and I’m running everything off HDMI 4 instead.

I suspect it’s the HDMI board itself failing, but I’ve already tried the usual fixes such as different cables, factory reset, etc. with no luck. Anyone dealt with this before, or know if it’s worth repairing vs replacing?

Any help or direction would be appreciated.

Thank you.

The body shop managed to fuck up my audio. I thought it was a loose wire but I took everything off and see this. Could this be the culprit of poor sound quality from this speaker? And do I solder it back to the terminal in the middle?

EDIT: u/top_Willow_9953 to the rescue!

First time redoing the surround on an Infinity BU-1 speaker and noticed when getting the speaker off that there was very thin double-sided sticky gasket tape between the speaker frame and the cabinet. Basically looked and felt like double-sided electrical tape. Every search for gasket tape returns foam products that are at least a couple millimetres thick. Is there a different name for this specific product? (Is it literally just double-sided electrical tape 😂) Thanks for helping a noob.

So for some reason that I can’t figure out, whenever I open my drivers door and than close it, all of the sound in my speakers and sub shut off, and than slowly come back on and they all pop, whatever im playing doesn’t stop and I can’t figure out why. It never did this before and just seemed to have randomly start. For reference this is what I’m using:

I currently have the Hertz Millie pro 165.3 in the front, Hertz CX165 in the back doors with the audiocontrol D-4.800
I have a Sony XAV-AX6000 for the headunit, and a Rockford Fosgate P500-12P.

This set up hasn’t been changed in almost 8 months, I’m at a loss

Recently picked up these Polk M20 Speakers for $23 at a Goodwill ! They sound age appropriately good when playing. However on some songs and only on some parts will the mid and high ranges completely cut out. I’ve turned down the bass and max volume on the amplifier ( Fosi BT30D ) and the problem is nonexistent. What can cause this to happen in the first place ? How can I fix it completely ?

Brought my bedroom sub to a gig, didn't bring my driverack, band obv too much for a JBL 2035HPL with no limiting...... One side does distort at a louder volume now, but works fine lower, seems to have more uncontrolled displacement compared to the left side (matched) when pushed louder. Is it repairable with a a new voice coil and recone/rebuild? Also there is no coil rub or sounds when pushed in, just starts sounding odd when pushed loud. (Toronto FYI, if you have a spare I would rather buy that but USA shipping is nuts) If it is fully cooked I can just put in new ones, just curious about your thoughts (knowledgable ppl) on how to fix this. Thank you 🫡.

Is it active portable battery operated speaker I got two of them and they both will not turn on and I got new chargers that are the exact voltage they need to be I got one to turn on for about half the time it should have and then it turned off and the other one just has not come on at all.

I don't really want to take them apart because I'm never good at putting stuff back together but these speakers are supposed to sound really great and I would like to get them working again.

I'm willing to try stuff but is this something that I could take to a local repair guy and wouldn't cost too much money?

The last piece of information I have is that they were sitting around for over a year in the garage and then they were given to me I bought new chargers for them that are the exact voltage one started charging and worked for about a few hours and since then it won't come back on and the other one never came on.

Have these woofers from JBL L5 where the surround is completely rotted and center cone. Might be beyond my skills, is there a place I could send them to or should I give it a go?

Cleaning up a T-4 signal tracer, upon softly brushing the speaker grille with a damp toothbrush, a large amount of material was lost. Looking for recommendations on period correct replacement.

Thanks in advance!

I am trouble shooting a sporadic buzzing/crackling noise from an active speaker, Cerwin Vega 10 Studio Monitor. When I opened it up I see that a cable has come loose, it is supposed to be fixed to the board by glue and not touching electrical components as it is doing now. I hope that is what was causing the noise.

Can anyone please advice what kind of glue I need so I can try to glue it back?

See photos.

Thanks in advance.

Like the title says I have A DBX 166 with one channel working fine and the other one not.

No sound passes through except when i bypass the channel. The gain reduction meters do work. I´m happy with any tips how i could get it working again.

Hallo
Ich habe hier eine hts 8100 ich bräuchte Hilfe da die Anlage bei voller Lautstärke so laut ist wie wenn es auf 5 wäre also ist die Anlage richtig leise
Und ich möchte wissen was das Problem ist da der Sub auf ist aber ich finde Drinnen kein Fehler könnte jemand helfen??
Weil ich finde zu schade es wegzuschmeißen

I recently purchased a Kenwood KX830 on marketplace and I think the belts need to be replaced. I took off the top and bottom plates and the front plate, but I’ve having trouble figuring out how to access the transport mechanism and the motor so I can gain enough access to the belts to clean and replace. Any tips?

I was attempting to clean out the Main power switch ASG1035, however it had tight springs and the parts flew everywhere. I have not been able to put the switch back together and have not found anything useful on the internet, would anyone have a schematic of some sort for it?

I took it apart in the first place because of protection mode problems, after ruling out faulty solders and now the switch my next guess are probably the relays and general wear from age, but after this I may just leave it as is.

A few days ago a lightning bolt hit my house, or just a few feet away judging by the noise, and power went out for about a second, then came back. My home theater components were plugged into a surge protector, not so much the usual shoe, but a large one with two rows. Of all the things connected to it, my Onkyo TX-RZ50 receiver seems to have gotten the worst of it, since it doesn't turn on anymore. I did all the usual troubleshooting, unplugging and plugging it back, reset with CBL + Power button, nothing worked.

Today I opened it, to see if there was something that appeared damaged, and there isn't. However, I saw a couple of fuses that are white rather than transparent, and they are located in a place that would be a royal pain to access, requiring unscrewing more things.

But I was wondering if anyone knows if these fuses could be blown and thus replacing them would bring it back to life:

If not, is there anything else I can do to repair it?

I have a pair of Denon POA 4400 (non A variant) and I'm experiencing some issue.

I haven't been able to find many resource as I think most of the POA 4400 have ended up in the bin unlike their A variant and the big brother 6600.

My pair have had this intermitten rush/pop and one of them have started to distort slightly and the audio has become very thin.

I've not a novice solder. I've built tube amp kits and soldered bunch of PCBs but I have absolutely zero knowledge on working on AMPs like this. I do also not have an oscilloscope, tone generator, dummy load or cap discharger. I do have a reputable multimeter though.

Does anyone have experience with these units and perhaps have a few tips before I send this of and spend more than they are worth on repairs (got a quote of $500-600 per unit).

context: i have an xm5, the physical condition is good no scratches or etc but the right side speaker doesn’t produce sound but it still has that smart motion thingy (slide/tap) and i dont know what to do next

i need help cuz i already did the 3.5 cable thingy and it still doesn’t work. what should i do? should i still repair it (warranty not available) or should i just sell it (idk where tho) and buy another one.

I have a Marantz 2275 that I would like to get a little R & R on, just looking for any recommendations whether it be a good or bad, around the Metro Detroit area . Thanks in advance